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Picked up a 86 Lebaron T1 vert Auto. Looks nice outside underside is worst I've seen but frame rails look good mostly....

Having a few issues

1. Boost cut with a MBC seems to be only 11 psi I thought 86 had the full 14.7 psi?

2 .Wipers were non functional switch makes relays click but still nothing. found power at plug to motor and power wire to motor itself. I ran a ground to the motor direct from the battery now it works great low and intermittent also spray cycle but no hi speed or full parking of the wipers. Is this safe to be rigged up or any hazard and how to really fix it?

3 idle crazy vac sometimes 16 sometimes under 10 and surging while driving. Only code is 15 and Yes I have sensor just need to install

4 underside is very rusty floors mostly gone only structural thing noticed was the jack pad rear left is rotted off (You know the plate behind the rocker in the back re enforced to jack from yeah it's gone). Anyone know where to weld metal to strengthen the frame?

5 rear window was busted and second attempt at hardware store plexiglass keeps failing. lowering the top causes window to be cracked in half by the bar coming down. I measured 14" by 40" anyone know the real dimensions of the glass?

6 how hard is it to do a T2 swap? I heard intake turbo exhaust manifold but what's the easiest wiring still available and ECM?

7 equal length shaft bearing has play up and down. Can I grease it and is there a bearing that can be changed?

8 Did the timing belt and it rode inside and belt seemed pretty loose. tightened it today and it still rides on the inside but seems tight. Belt was a new extra for my 88 and original metal timing pulley seems fine. noticed a scratching noise running could be from vice grips used to turn tensioner from outside cover but no idea. Is there a definitive way to measure the belt tension?
I can do both methods twist the belt and move it 5/8" but it still rides inside this one is confusing all my other ones start inside then warm up riding on the outside middle of the cam gear....
 

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2. originally IIRC there was a brass ground strap ~1/2" wide which jumped from the wiper body to under one of the mounting bolts, cuz the wiper motor is rubber isolated..

3. I highly recommend replacing EVERY SINGLE vacuum line, elbow, connector,.. with New;
all that old dry brittle plastic sh*t is prone to randomly leaking, causing hard to trace driveability issues, and potentially could lead to underfueling when boosted and kill your motor.
REPLACE THEM ALL with a vacuum block and fresh lines
 

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6. for a 'TII swap' you actually just need a later intake mani, your existing turbo and exhaust mani will work (with some mods)..
the 'easiest' way for wiring/ECM of course would be an 86 "GLHS" ECM + the pigtail for the 4-wire AIS ..
an 87 TII would also work fine but you'd need to do the MAP relocate (ez)
the 87 ECM is slightly better than the 86..
I did both of those, and eventually moved to the 88-9 SMEC conversion on my 86 2.5 TII ..
 

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Picked up a 86 Lebaron T1 vert Auto. Looks nice outside underside is worst I've seen but frame rails look good mostly....

Having a few issues

1. Boost cut with a MBC seems to be only 11 psi I thought 86 had the full 14.7 psi?
***No year had a full 14.5 lbs. of boost (2 Bar) from the factory, the T-1 was only about 7 PSI, the T-2, VNT and T-3 were 12 lbs. of boost.
The turbo will produce as much boost as it is capable of, the actual amount of boost is controlled by the wastegate and boost pressure applied to the wastegate.
If you want to know if your issue is related to a boost leak or the wastegate opening too soon then disconnect and plug the line from the wastegate and go for a ride, if you can now get to 14.5 lbs. of boost the issue is with the wastegate.
CAUTION!!!
BE CAREFUL NOT TO OVERBOOST WHEN DRIVING WITH THE WASTEGATE LINE DISCONNECTED.
THE 2 BAR MAP CAN ONLY PROVIDE FUEL UP TO 14.5 LBS OF BOOST AND ABOVE THAT YOU WILL GO INTO OVERBOOST SHUTDOWN WHICH IN ITSELF IS VIOLENT.
I DO NOT RECOMMEND RUNNING HIGH BOOST LEVELS WITHOUT AN INTERCOOLER.

If you are running without an intercooler your issue may also be related to Knock Retard (Detonation) from excessive heat in the cylinder(s).

2 .Wipers were non functional switch makes relays click but still nothing. found power at plug to motor and power wire to motor itself. I ran a ground to the motor direct from the battery now it works great low and intermittent also spray cycle but no hi speed or full parking of the wipers. Is this safe to be rigged up or any hazard and how to really fix it?
***As already stated the ground wire is a common issue.

High/Low and Park are all related to the switch and motor.
Intermittent wipers (Wipe and Park) are controlled by the switch and an Intermittent Wiper Control Unit.
Low has power on the BN wire, High has power on the RD/YL wire.

3 idle crazy vacuum sometimes 16 sometimes under 10 and surging while driving. Only code is 15 and Yes I have sensor just need to install.
You have a Vacuum Leak or Cam Timing is off or Both.
As already stated, replace the vacuum lines/connectors and install a vacuum block.
If you are looking for a neater/less cluttered look...


86 Turbo Vacuum.jpg


6 how hard is it to do a T2 swap? I heard intake turbo exhaust manifold but what's the easiest wiring still available and ECM?
***http://www.thedodgegarage.com/turbo_glhs.html


8 Did the timing belt and it rode inside and belt seemed pretty loose. tightened it today and it still rides on the inside but seems tight. Belt was a new extra for my 88 and original metal timing pulley seems fine. noticed a scratching noise running could be from vice grips used to turn tensioner from outside cover but no idea. Is there a definitive way to measure the belt tension?
I can do both methods twist the belt and move it 5/8" but it still rides inside this one is confusing all my other ones start inside then warm up riding on the outside middle of the cam gear....

***
 
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