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1987 GLHS 0564
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As mentioned MP State II LM has revised spar and fuel curves. Stock LM with a G valve will not have that.

For low boost ypu could have a boost leak in a hose, bad turbo, leak at wastegate solenoid etc.... G valve can take out the solenoids or LM from your boost problems.
 

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So question about the LM Stage 2 module. I see some people add the Grainger valve to get boost to 14-15 with the stock LM. What are the advantages and disadvantages of getting the LM Module vs just the Grainger valve? I won't be doing any mods until the base issues are resolved.
Because it is easier than getting 30+ year old stuff to work. I have a 85 GLH-T that has a 2.2 Turbo II swap. I changed to 87 electronics with a 87 CSX LM. None of the stock boost stuff was working so I just run a manual boost controller. I think in total I have like 4-5 vacuum lines. Super simple and it works.

Your car is a bit different, it's actually nice and worth something. My car is a ratty beater. If I had your car I would carefully pull all the stock vacuum lines off and store them away and just run all new stuff. Eliminating any vacuum problems could help pinpoint your issue.
 

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Discussion Starter · #23 ·
I think I may have found the issue. I took the bag off the LM and it has a remanufactured sticker on it. The MAP is on the LM so looks like an 86 style, but not sure what it is running for Logic. I will try to pull it out today or tomorrow and see if I can see the model number or more info. I got a bit complacent with most everything else being stock and making that assumption the LM was stock as well. Here is an image:
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First off I am no expert, just what I can find on the ole google machine. This looks like a Cardone reman for a 86 GLH turbo 1 (their pt# is 79-7535). Don't think that would work very well in a 86 GLHS. I would look for the correct LM if it was my car.
 

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Discussion Starter · #25 ·
First off I am no expert, just what I can find on the ole google machine. This looks like a Cardone reman for a 86 GLH turbo 1 (their pt# is 79-7535). Don't think that would work very well in a 86 GLHS. I would look for the correct LM if it was my car.
Thank you I am at work today and have been searching for the different numbers to try and identify what it is. I think that explains my system as the GLH turbo box might idle high since there is an intercooler and I believe they use different AIS valves. It also explains why the boost is capped at 9PSI.
 

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So question about the LM Stage 2 module. I see some people add the Grainger valve to get boost to 14-15 with the stock LM. What are the advantages and disadvantages of getting the LM Module vs just the Grainger valve? I won't be doing any mods until the base issues are resolved.
With increased boost comes increased torque. CS was concerned enough about the somewhat fragile a525 tranny, that they limited the full boost pressure until like 4000-4500 RPM and up. They needed these powertains to survive long enough to make em through the warranty period. The marketing people decided to try to sell that a good thing, and bragged about it on the window sticker, calling it a "sloped boost curve" (lol). So, adding more HP and torque is a two edged sword. Increased performance with increased load on an already suspected weak tranny. Put enough HP through a a525, and they will come apart, sometimes with spectacular results. I know first hand, as I've busted four of them in 20K miles on a GLHT.

With LM controlled boost, if the detonation sensor detects pinging, it will decrease timing and boost. Also with LM controlling things, the boost pressure will come on more gradual because the wastegate is already starting to open (slowing down building boost) as early as 4-5 PSI. You don't get that big torque spike you get with using a Grainger valve to control boost. With the GLHS module, they neuter it even more, but it prevents the tranny from damage. It also prevents the car from getting wrapped around a tree, making sudden lane changes, etc. when the boost hits hard.

With a Grainger valve installed, the boost will build much quicker (even at part throttle). It does this because the Grainger valve effectively prevents the wastegate from cracking open until near full boost is seen. Resulting in dramatically improved part throttle performance. This is also a two edged sword as the downside is much more load on the tranny because of the increased torque at a lower RPM. The LM no longer has control of boost, so it has lost it's ability to regulate boost if it senses detonation.

Many times when installing a Grainger valve, you will run into another roadblock if you keep increasing boost. The LM will have a preset overboost shut-off. This preset shut-off will vary from one application to another, and even one LM to another. Then to disable or prevent that, you have to select and install a MAP sensor zener diode that prevents the MAP sensor from seeing the actual pressure it is running. This is a very slippery slope as you can get bitten quickly with making this decision to run a zener diode. From there it is all downhill chasin your tail finding the next thing restricting performance without hurting the engine or tranny.
 

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Discussion Starter · #28 ·
With increased boost comes increased torque. CS was concerned enough about the somewhat fragile a525 tranny, that they limited the full boost pressure until like 4000-4500 RPM and up. They needed these powertains to survive long enough to make em through the warranty period. The marketing people decided to try to sell that a good thing, and bragged about it on the window sticker, calling it a "sloped boost curve" (lol). So, adding more HP and torque is a two edged sword. Increased performance with increased load on an already suspected weak tranny. Put enough HP through a a525, and they will come apart, sometimes with spectacular results. I know first hand, as I've busted four of them in 20K miles on a GLHT.

With LM controlled boost, if the detonation sensor detects pinging, it will decrease timing and boost. Also with LM controlling things, the boost pressure will come on more gradual because the wastegate is already starting to open (slowing down building boost) as early as 4-5 PSI. You don't get that big torque spike you get with using a Grainger valve to control boost. With the GLHS module, they neuter it even more, but it prevents the tranny from damage. It also prevents the car from getting wrapped around a tree, making sudden lane changes, etc. when the boost hits hard.

With a Grainger valve installed, the boost will build much quicker (even at part throttle). It does this because the Grainger valve effectively prevents the wastegate from cracking open until near full boost is seen. Resulting in dramatically improved part throttle performance. This is also a two edged sword as the downside is much more load on the tranny because of the increased torque at a lower RPM. The LM no longer has control of boost, so it has lost it's ability to regulate boost if it senses detonation.

Many times when installing a Grainger valve, you will run into another roadblock if you keep increasing boost. The LM will have a preset overboost shut-off. This preset shut-off will vary from one application to another, and even one LM to another. Then to disable or prevent that, you have to select and install a MAP sensor zener diode that prevents the MAP sensor from seeing the actual pressure it is running. This is a very slippery slope as you can get bitten quickly with making this decision to run a zener diode. From there it is all downhill chasin your tail finding the next thing restricting performance without hurting the engine or tranny.
Thank you. I am already contemplating the 555 upgrade people talk about on the board. Based on this and other posts here I would consider the stage 2 LM as far as an upgrade. With that being said might look for a GLH-T with a blown motor and little rust and build it from scratch.
 

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Fwiw I am in the middle of the 555 swap in my 87 GLHS. I also added the chromoly bearing support plate to the trans while it was out. Hope to have it all back together this next weekend.

I did the swap to preserve the numbers matching 525 on my car.
 

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Thank you. I am already contemplating the 555 upgrade people talk about on the board. Based on this and other posts here I would consider the stage 2 LM as far as an upgrade. With that being said might look for a GLH-T with a blown motor and little rust and build it from scratch.
When you do a little seachin, you're gonna realize that finding a rust free GLHT (even without one with engine blown up) is harder than finding a 86 GLHS. Very few people took care of or stored GLHT's, compared to GLHS'. The last really nice GLHT that sold on BaT brought about twice what you spent on your GLHS!

If you do decide to put a a555 in the GLHS, you'll need to decide whether to have it a cable operated shifter, or a rod operated shifter. Neither are direct bolt ins, but both are doable if you know your stuff & do your homework. Also do some research on the failure rate of intermediate shaft on the a520/a555's. They have their share of issues too.
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You can also install a 87 TII LM by adding in an external MAP. That is adding three wires and switching another two wires between the red and blue connectors. They're more plentiful, they're gonna be more inexpensive, and they'll be a big performance increase for your application.
 

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Discussion Starter · #32 ·
When you do a little seachin, you're gonna realize that finding a rust free GLHT (even without one with engine blown up) is harder than finding a 86 GLHS. Very few people took care of or stored GLHT's, compared to GLHS'. The last really nice GLHT that sold on BaT brought about twice what you spent on your GLHS!

If you do decide to put a a555 in the GLHS, you'll need to decide whether to have it a cable operated shifter, or a rod operated shifter. Neither are direct bolt ins, but both are doable if you know your stuff & do your homework. Also do some research on the failure rate of intermediate shaft on the a520/a555's. They have there share of issues too.
View attachment 284248

You can also install a 87 TII LM by adding in an external MAP. That is adding three wires and switching another two wires between the red and blue connectors. They're more plentiful, they're gonna be more inexpensive, and they'll be a big performance increase for your application.
It's funny the GLH-T are higher than GLH-S. I am getting excited to see what this car can do with the correct LM. I thought it was quick but felt it had more to give. Definitely walk before I crawl with this one. Get it running as close to stock as possible and then decide.

Everyone on this board has been great and thank you to everyone.
 

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Discussion Starter · #33 ·
Just ordered a new box from fwd performance. Did expedited shipping so maybe have it this weekend. Mentioned earlier about the low sale prices for GLH-S recently and then I saw this just sell on BaT for $34k:
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My guess is that the fuel injectors might be leaking! Fuel Pressure might be normal, but I would pull the fuel rail with injectors still attached, and then pressurize them and look for visible leaks. (Use 4 clear containers to catch the drips.)
More gas might equal higher idle speed, and the roughness at idle might indicate that the system is running on the rich side. Also, it is a good idea to put new O-rings on the injectors before you re-install them. Any smells of gas fumes around the car? The O-rings might have deteriorated while the car was in storage.
 

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More fuel without more air cannot increase idle speed, if an injector was leaking it should show on the spark plug from the affected cylinder.
 

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Obviously erratic idle speed is caused from having a 2 wire AIS LM connected to 4 wire AIS. You basically have a log manifold (pull through) LM trying to control a blow through idle circuit. I'm sort of surprised it runs as well as it does.
 

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Discussion Starter · #39 ·
Thank you to everyone on the board who helped me with this. Just got the Stage 3 LM from FWPerformance today and did a quick test run. Car did 6.73 0-60 and is idling much better. I think the clutch is toast on the second run it slipped quite a bit. Boost peaked at 14psi. Here is a link to the Dragy video: (The rattling is the screws from the kick panel I did not put back in yet). Car has sat for a few weeks so got a bath tonight. Looked like a barn find with all the pollen. Searching the board now for clutch recommendations and may upgrade to the 555. If I cannot find anybody local to do the transmission can anybody recommend anybody in North Florida Georgia or Alabama?

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Glad to hear your GLHS is back running properly. Now if this is the only thing that previous owners and mechanics have screwed up, count your blessings!
Seemed like to me you have your choice of $125 clutch and pressure plate assemblies, or stepping up to $375-$450 clutch assemblies from one of our two main vendors. Doesn't seem to much in between.
On the cheap end the LUK 05-044 is like a stock replacement. Maybe a slight upgrade as I think the disk is 232mm instead of 228mm. That part # may have been superseded a couple times. I remember seeing one on Ebay a short while ago. If your planning future performance upgrades or plan on putting a far stickier tire on it, I'd suggest upgrading to one of the SPEC, or TU's clutches. I've also had good luck with Clutchnet clutches. General consensus is their disks are great but their pressure plates are nothing special. I have had zero luck with any Kevlar disks. The 3/4/6/ puck disks will be much more grabby than a stock organic disk, keep that in mind when making a clutch choice. It is very subjective as to what is tolerable and what is not for a street vehicle.
 
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