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Discussion Starter #1
I'm throwing myself at the mercy of the forum. I've googled, i've printed pages, run through diagnostics, I've learned a lot and made progress, however I've hit a wall.

Back story this Shelby was found in a field and it hasn't been on the road in 25 years. Original owner died, and I assume this issue was present back then as well. I've repaired wires, cleaned connections, the engine turns over, I get codes at the cluster, mostly 33 and 55. This car has no AC. so I assume the LM is working, I hear some clicking noises from the PM when I turn the key on and I do hear a short whirring noise under the hood when I turn the key on. but that is as far as I've been able to get.

The HEP is new, the cap is new, rotor is new, wires and plugs all new. If I connect a test light to the + of the coil and ground, I get a one second flash when key on, and a steady light when cranking. On the other hand when I put that same test light on the - of the coil and ground I get nothing. according to an article I read, I changed the coil with a new Standard blue streak coil but nothing new.

I tried the ASD relay jumper from the under hood diagnostics connector to the ground on the battery but nothing happened except flashing a 42 & 43 code. and this is the part where I'm at a standstill. so If anyone can enlighten as to where I should go next I would greatly appreciate it.
 

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Here is clarification on how the coil works, so you may want to read the following about the coil.
https://www.turbododge.com/forums/f1/f25/1079097-confused-help-out-old-guy.html#post4126329

The one second light at the coil is fine as this is the fuel pump prime. It will do this for three "key on". During cranking it should be on all the time. So it sound like the ASD is working. Are you sure you are getting fuel pressure to the rail?
no pulse on the negative coil line point toward the coil - line voltage is not dropping. This is controlled by the PM/LM and yes it could be a faulty HEP.
Did you check NAJ's no start primer? https://www.turbododge.com/forums/f4/f14/358231-no-start-no-spark-84-90-a.html
 

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do you have a Factory service manual FSM they are so valuable?
The are commonly sold on ebay for a reasonable price
 

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early log style turbo motor will not start IF the woven ground strap running from the fuel injector rail bolt to the firewall is not intact or disconnected or excessively loose at the firewall

guaranteed no start without that strap

there's also a wire in top of the transmission with a bolt sized ring eye on the end

(below air filter area)

it simply bolts to the top of the trans case but it is also a ground that will prevent starting if not connected
 

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the factory used a longer woven ground strap for the radios - if you need to find one quickly
-same sized bolt eyes

usually they're in really good condition being under the dash
 

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Better shot
Not sure what that is but that connection never got cleaned. :surprise:

Invest in some service manuals to make your life easier:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/1986-DODGE-FWD-CAR-600-DAYTONA-CHARGER-600-LEBARON-LASER-SERVICE-SHOP-MANUAL-86/383167968165?hash=item59369733a5:g:4fgAAOSwRgJXjj11

https://www.ebay.com/itm/1986-Dodge-FWD-Omni-Charger-Aries-Factory-Service-Manual-WELL-USED-CONDITION-1/332859161352?_trkparms=ispr=1&hash=item4d7ff3bb08:g:zi4AAOSwwZxb1~OK&enc=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&checksum=332859161352c70f802bbc5843189ffba778d425770f

I'd double check your connections & put some dielectric grease on them. Remember, it's a 33 year old car that's been sitting for what, 25 years?

Good luck! :grin2:
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Thanks for the links to those service manuals I grabbed both. Once I get this car running I can clean everything and start to restore. It will run again!
 

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I'm Back!!!

From what i have read your ASD Relay (integral to the PM on 85-87) is functioning and the car is seeing a crank signal so the ASD Relay is being actuated, however...

Start at the top of these diagnostics and post back. I need to know exactly where we are.
https://www.turbododge.com/forums/f4/f14/358231-no-start-no-spark-84-90-a.html
(When checking fault codes since you have been testing systems...
Clear the codes, be sure the codes have cleared before cranking the engine and then crank the engine for 7-10 seconds, recheck for codes, did any codes return?)
 

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Well I think you might be on to something, it’s still connected but seriously damaged.
not connected "enough"

also , a simple no spark cause is a broken or striped timing belt

if the belt is kaput then the intermediate shaft don't turn
the dist don't turn
the hep sends no signal to the controller
the controller shuts power off...

so , you have no spark

remove the cap

tap the key to bump the motor slightly

go back to see if rotor moved

if not you'll need to look up timing belt replacement
 

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He stated his test light was lit while on the + coil terminal and cranking the engine.
That indicates the controller is seeing a crank signal and he ASD is being actuated.

He then stated that he had no power at the - coil while cranking and that should have been the test lamp flashing on/off while cranking, he stated he replaced the ignition coil with no change.

This is why I posted the diagnostics and asked the OP to start at the beginning.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Thanks for all the replies, I had a miserable few days and was not able to get back to this. I am waiting for the service manuals that were recommended by John83. I tried going through the pages Chromguy linked here however I need more time to digest it all. The distributor is moving, the belt is still intact. I have replaced the grounding strap too. The car is outdoors and we are expecting rain for a few days so I'll wait patiently for my service manuals and read up on more info.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
NAJ, I've been using your list as a bible that I printed out previously. That's what has brought me to this point at least. I'll go over it again this morning while I have some time and let you know where I am in that list.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
1)Verify no spark by removing the coil wire from the distributor cap and hold
1/4" from a good ground.
Crank the engine for 7-10 seconds, spark should be strong and consistent
Count 1-2 sparks as No Spark.
Is spark present?

NO

2)Verify...
Distributor is turning, if distributor is not turning repair timing belt issue.
Coil wire is not open, check resistance with an ohmmeter,3000-5000 ohms
per foot. Repair as necessary.
Are distributor and coil wire OK?

YES

3)Check ASD Relay circuit(84-90)(On 91-up do you hear the fuel pump cycle for 1 second with initial key on?)

NO fuel pump heard.

Locate the underhood diagnostic connector
With the key on/engine off ground the DB/YL(dark blue/yellow) wire.
This will actuate the ASD relay.(A Code 42 will be set in memory)
Power (battery voltage) should be present at the + coil, DG/BK
(dark green/black) wire at the injector(s) and at the fuel pump.
You should hear the fuel pump running.
Is power present?

I did not actually know how to test this, Im very mechanically inclined but electrically dumb


4)Check HEP (hall effect pickup) circuit.
Remove the ground wire from the diagnostic connector.
Using a 12 volt test lamp connected to + coil and ground crank the engine.
The test lamp should illuminate.
Did the test lamp illuminate?

YES

5)Check coil control circuit
Using a 12 volt test lamp connected to - coil and ground crank the engine.
The test lamp should flash on/off repeatedly.
If the lamp flashed on/off but no spark...replace the ignition coil.
If the lamp did not light...replace the ignition coil
If the test lamp illuminated but did not flash...repair the coil control circuit.

This is where I am. As you know I have replaced the coil but still no spark. I do hear something activating while I am in the car when I turn the key on. The sound is either coming from
the injectors or somewhere else around the top of the engine.
 

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And what did the test lamp do when connected to the - coil terminal and ground?

1)Flash on/off?
2)Light and not flash
3)Not light at all.
 
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