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Old School Hot Rodder
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Jan, I could not find it in the FSM set, Like I said, I have the TII and TII diagnostic troubleshooting manuals, but nothing for the TIs. I do have AllData Pro and am saving all the DTC info into a PDF format, if you and midnightmopar will send me your emails via PM, I will email the stuff or a Goggle Drive link due to the size of the files.
 

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Diagnostics for Code 43 are going to be the same for all 85-87 2.2/2.5L engines weather they are TBI are Turbo, the coil control circuit is the same for both.
 

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Old School Hot Rodder
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Jan, thought, 1986 SC, some of those are TII engines, in which case the 1986 information won't be a lot of help on many items, coil and control will be though.
 

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I just read this entire thread and I just want to say I'm pulling for you!! Man, that feeling you'll get when it fires will be the best ever. Lots of respect for everyone here for helping. Great forum.
 

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Discussion Starter #105
Thanks, yes I’m extremely grateful for the patience and generosity from all of those who have replied. Today I’m putting a shelter over the car so I can keep going through the winter months. 👍
 

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Old School Hot Rodder
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midnightmopar, have you pulled the right kick panel loose and examined the logic module for water damage? This was a very common problem on these cars.
 

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Discussion Starter #107
85Lebaron, I do have the kick panel off, I didn't notice anything out of the ordinary, So this car also had a LM replaced. at some point the original deceased owner mustve tired to replace the original LM. There was the box that the new LM came in inside the car when I obtained it. I still have the original LM or what I think to be a previous LM. NAJ had me clean the connectors on the LM and when I did I didn't see any signs of water damage. However I'm here today so I will check again.
 

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Old School Hot Rodder
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Ok, quick question, when you crank the engine, does the ASD relay close and the fuel pump run? One of the very common issues with this generation of Mopar FWD models is failure of the HEP (Hall Effect Pickup) in the distributor. If you mark the distributor base and which way the rotor is pointing you can remove it and spin it by hand with the key on. You should be able to hear the ASD relay close. If not, first thing to check is for 8 volts on the orange wire to the HEPs, unplug one of the 3 pin leads and check for 8 volts with the key on, If you have it and no response from the ASD relay when triggering the HEPs they are probably bad.

Unfortunately a lot of the tests require the scan tool and sometimes a stash of extra parts to try. Good luck with it!
 

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Discussion Starter #109
I did replace the HEP with a new one, fixed some wiring that was damaged, I believe I can here something " click " for lack of a better word when I turn the key on at the PM and I do here something activate at the fuel rail area when I turn the key on. As far as the fuel pump no nothing from that, but I assume that is toast from sitting since 1994. Once I get spark I will address fuel.
 

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I am not home right now and will not be until Monday so I do not have access to my wiring/pinouts.
If someone has a known good PM can you check continuity at the PM itself between the coil control pin from the coil to the coil control pin that leads to the LM.
I would like to know if the internal circuit in the PM is normally open or closed.
 

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As I stated before, he does not have an ASD Relay or HEP issue.
The issue is on the coil control circuit side.
He has 12 volts at the + coil while cranking the engine which means the controller is seeing both a crank and fuel sync signal and the ASD is being actuated.
The issue he is having is there is no power/pulse on the coil - terminal when cranking. ( There is also a Code 43)
There is power on the coil - terminal if you disconnect the wire from the - coil and testing has shown the coil itself is OK.
When you reconnect the wire to the - coil and crank the engine there is no longer power on the - coil terminal but there is still 12 volts present on the coil + terminal.
This indicates that the - coil is being pulled to ground, we are trying to determine from where.
We have already checked the wire from the coil - to the PM for continuity from end to end and does not have continuity to ground.
We now have to determine if the issue is with the PM, Wiring from the PM to LM or the LM.
I would prefer actual diagnostics rather than replacing with known good parts since they are not available to the OP. the
 

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Old School Hot Rodder
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I can check my spare (no longer needed) PM, that would be from pin 1 of the 10 way (J5 BK/YL coil -) to pin 10 of the 12 way (K15 YL called anti dwell signal in the 1986 wiring book). Unfortunately since I no longer have a car with the two piece system I can't go to it and get readings. Should I also check from pin 1 of the 10 way to pins 9 & 10 of the 10 way (J9 ground)? This will, of course be unpowered.
 

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freestyle guess (hypothesis)
PM circuits are likely open when key is not in the run position..
reason for thought
burning PM after dropping hood shut one night - smoke from behind headlamp in under 60 seconds..
something "closed" with an absolute dead short to ground

so one useful thing
if , IF you have power issues .. DISCONNECT THE BATTERY BEFORE YOU WALK AWAY...!!!
I was lucky .. I sat at the desk / workbench in front of he car
I could have as easily walked out the side door 3-4 steps away ..
 

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I do not have access to my wiring so I will be depending on you for the proper pin numbers to prove.
I wanted to check the PM unpowered.
Since this is a ground circuit I want to be certain if it normally opened or closed, then the OP can check his PM against your readings.
If it is supposed to be open and his shows continuity we have located an issue.
Thank You for your assistance.
 

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Discussion Starter #115
Spent the day getting ready for snow, will pull the car out after the storm and put plastic down. Now all I need to do is add lights and heat and I’m good to keep working on it. 😊
 

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Old School Hot Rodder
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Jan, I will get the PM from my storage unit tomorrow and take the following measurements Coil - to ground, anti dwell to coil - and will do these unpowered, sitting on a table, powered with the permanent battery feed and then with the ignition power applied. midnightmopar, enjoy your snow and please keep it up there, we are just supposed to get rain, lots of it down here (Virginia).
 

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Old School Hot Rodder
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Ok, thus far, coil driver to ground, essentially open circuit 18+ megohm, to anti dwell, same this is module not connected to any power. With direct battery feed and ground powered with 14.4 VDC, same results. I will do the rest when I return in about 2 hours.
 
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