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Discussion Starter #1
Hi, I'm new to this. I inherited an 86 shelby charger. It will turn over but not start. My father in law was racing it. he shut it off and has not started since. It has a MP power module in it. It is not getting any spark. I tried to get codes but none will come up. Not even a 55 or anything else. He did have a bleed on the turbo to raise boost. Could the computer be bad since it does not flash any codes? I already checked the hall effect sensor. Fusible links seem to be good to. Please help. I've always wanted to play with one of these. Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter #4
yes the check engine light comes on and goes off when you first turn on the key. I should have been more specific with what happened. He was sitting in the staging lanes and shut the car off to go to the bathroom before he raced. When he got back in to start it, it would not start and hasn't since.
 

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Maybe asd relay? I can't remember if the older models have a seperate relay or if it's in the power module. Try running a jumper wire from the positive side of the battery to the positive side of the coil.
 

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Start with the basics. Is there spark? Is there fuel pressure? When turning the key on do you hear the fuel pump cycle? Is the distributor turning?
If the problem is related to the check engine light not flashing codes that would be a communication problem with the controller.We need to know which systems(fuel, spark) are not functioning so we can narrow down and isolate the problem.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
the fuel pump does cycle when you first turn the key. The distributor does turn. There is no spark. I pulled a plug and turned the engine over and nothing. Also no power to the pos side of coil when cranking. Is the fuel pump in the tank on these?
 

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If there is no power to the + coil while cranking your problem is ASD or HEP.
Find the underhood diagnostic connector and with the key on ground the DB/YL wire and the fuel pump should run,there should be power at the + coil and at the DG/BK wire at the injector harness.If there is the ASD and circuit are ok and the controller is not seeing a crank signal from the HEP.Check the HEP connector for proper mating and terminal integrity,if ok replace the HEP.Use Mopar Only.
 

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Pump is in the tank, but not too hard to replace. I've had 2 pumps in different cars do the same thing - just die. Running one minute and not running the next.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I checked the diagnostic plug in test and had power at all three places. Do you know if there is a way to test the HEP before I spend 90 dollars on one? The connections there all looked good. I asked about the fuel pump because there appears to be on outside of the tank as well but isn't plugged in. The in tank one works. Could the outside one be an aftermarket one that just isn't plugged in? Thanks a lot for all the help so far!!
 

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There are ways to check the HEP but it will usually set a fault code.
You stated earlier that the Power Loss Lamp was not functioning.
Does the lamp even come on? Does it light up with the key on and engine off and then go out.
When you turn the key on/off on/off on does it flash?
If the light is inop this needs to be addressed first as you may have a communication problem with the controller. That is ALWAYS the first thing asked by Chrysler in all of there diagnostics, will the scan tool communicate with the controller,if not this MUST be corrected first.
 

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I also have an 86 Dodge Shelby Turbo Charger that does not run. The original equipment Shelby had two Fuel Pumps one in the tank and one external. Later upgrade was one one the tank only. My Shelby has that mod with the proper internal pump. I am not getting two of my injectors to pulse,,, only runs on #1 and#2 cylinder. Power Module?
 

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Power should be constant on the DG/BK wire which is the feed from the ASD relay.
The ground side is kind of confusing.
Injector ground side(from the injectors)runs to PM 10 pin connector cavitys 5 and 7 and the wire colors are WT and TN.
But you also have and injector control signals from the LM Red connector cavity #'s 2 and 3.
Cavity #2 is injector control for injectors 1-2 and is a VT/YL wire which runs to PM 12 pin connector cavity # 1 and is listed as "injector control from LM"
Cavity #3 is injector control for injectors 3-4 and is a GY/WT wire which runs to PM 12
pin connector cavity # 8 and is listed as "injector control from LM"
You say you are not getting pulses so I assume you are using a noid light.
Use your digital volt/ohmmeter to check power while cranking and check the ground circuits for open or shorts to ground.Check all connectors at the injectors and controllers for damage,corrosion and push out.
 

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I also have an 86 Dodge Shelby Turbo Charger that does not run. The original equipment Shelby had two Fuel Pumps one in the tank and one external. Later upgrade was one one the tank only. My Shelby has that mod with the proper internal pump. I am not getting two of my injectors to pulse,,, only runs on #1 and#2 cylinder. Power Module?
Sounds like HEP, in both cases _sounds_ like HEP or HEP wiring/connectors. The HEP can be tested for about 70% of it's operation by connecting ground, positive,5K resistor and a volt meter to it. Just get the pinout and load the output to +Vcc, measure across the load. 12V is safe for testing. It should be nearly grounding the output and then going positive depending on whether the distributor slot is in the HE sensor or not. There are 2 identical sensors with 2 actually identical pinouts in the pickup coil.

A real test requires putting the distributor on a scope with the coil installed. Testing it upto 3500rpm dist with varying vibrations... but that's for high RPM miss etc.

Regards
 

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Discussion Starter #15
the power loss light will come on when you first turn the key on and then it will go off. It will not flash codes when i go on/off on/off on with the key. Maybe I'm not doing it right? Is there a trick on how fast you have to do this? Does the key have to go all the way back or back just far enough to shut down power?
 

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It is just a constant on/off/ on/off on, enough to cut power is enough,you just have to do it all in a sequence, you cannot wait a couple seconds between on/off.
If it will not flash codes there is a communication problem in the controller circuits.
The easiest way to verify this is to connect a scan tool, if it will not flash codes it will not communicate with the scanner.
 
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