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Discussion Starter #1
http://minimopar.knizefamily.net/fault/code25.html

Description: AIS (Automatic Idle Speed) motor circuit shorted or target idle speed not reached

I recently converted my car from 87 2.2 T1 Auto to 87 2.2 T2 (87 Shelby 2.2 T2 Logic Module)

Car runs and drives great all except the idle - it goes up and down maybe 100~200 rpm. Digital dash makes it difficult to tell EXACTLY what the RPM is at.

I checked and double checked to make sure I had the pins in the logic module correctly and that I wired the AIS up correctly - I even switched the two extra wires I had to connect to the AIS to make sure it was hooked up correctly and it is.

It idles around 1500~1600 in park/neutral and around 900~1000 in gear. It has brand new vacuum lines - the only things hooked up are the FPR, Map Sensor, Wastegate Canister, and brake booster/BoV. I have made sure I have no open vacuum nipples on anything where I would be leaking vacuum - I even sprayed starter fluid all over the engine bay especially on the vac lines to see if I was leaking anywhere and got no racing idle indicating a leak.

I'm 99% sure that the AIS is good because it came out of my 89 Spirit ES 2.5 T1 and I never had any issues with it's idle always dead on - I actually just swapped the throttlebody including AIS and TPS off of the spirit into the lebaron.

What I am wanting to know is if this is an issue that has a fix or if it's just due to the fact that I'm running a 5-speed tranny comp with an automatic transmission? And what I should check.

The vehicle runs 20inches of vacuum in park and about 15 in gear. It's a fresh rebuild with about 250 miles on the clock.

If you need any more information just let me know.

Thanks

Mike
 

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Mike, I run 2 5sp comps in automatic converted cars. Neither have that issue. Go to mini-mopar and go through the procedure to reset the AIS motor.
 

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FWIW. I had this same problem on a daytona T2. It has been recently rebuilt with the only "electrical" change being a new O2 sensor. The idle is rock solid now.
 

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puppet said:
FWIW. I had this same problem on a daytona T2. It has been recently rebuilt with the only "electrical" change being a new O2 sensor. The idle is rock solid now.
AND WHAT DID YOU DO TO FIX IT??
 

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Sorry, caps lock was on when I typed the 1st one. Was it throwing an o2 code prior to changing it??
 

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Before the rebuild ... no codes. (multimeter read high though) The head showed what I thought was rich condition. ... black, sticky tar.
After the rebuild, the code came then went. ... if that makes any sense. The O2 feedback seemed intermittent ... tested with the multimeter (was reading over 1 volt) and then finally a gauge. While the gauge said it had no O2 feedback there was no code being thrown by the computer.
Being a cheap Pollack, I did not run out and buy a new O2 sensor for the new rebuilt engine .... the sensible part of me did however loosen the old O2 sensor with the 18' cheater bar just to cover my cheap ars. The O2 was the only thing I wasn't able to swap out before. When I did, the problem described here went away.

I don't know if the original poster changed his sensor after his rebuild. Just thought I'd mention what happened to me.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Yes it's a brand new O2 sensor - but I think I'm going to pull it out and return it and go get a mopar one - the shop actually bought the new O2 (Bosch) and installed it... YUK

I actually did get a code 52 a couple times after the rebuild - running rich - but I never saw black smoke out the exhaust ever.

edit: I do not yet have my A/F gauge hooked up - that's today's task - once it's hooked up I will be able to read my O2 and see if it's operating as it should =)

Mike
 

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Discussion Starter #10
The airflow set screw on the throttle body was almost opened as much as you could (max airflow) - I'm guessing that's why the AIS was constantly dropping the idle from 1500 down to 1400ish trying to get down near 900.

Using directions from minimopar.net on the minimum airflow setting for the throttle body I went out and pulled the hose off the TB and used some carb cleaner and a toothbrush to clean out the carbon buildup (a lot)... I disconnected a large vacuum source to cause a racing idle to cause the AIS to try and adjust by closing and unplugged the AIS - I then feathered the gas to keep it from stalling and turned the setscrew until it idled about 700~800.

I then shut the car off - plugged in the AIS and started it up - it started up and revved to about 1500 then dropped down to 1000ish out of gear. I dropped it in gear and it died on me. I started it back up - dropped it in gear and it didn't die - idled nice and smooth at about 900ish in gear. When I take it out of gear it revvs up to about 1100 and then drops down to 950~1000. When I drop it back in gear it goes down a little but doesn't stall out. It seems to do a LITTLE bouncing out of gear still but in gear it seems to be holding idle.

I parked several times and put it in park for a couple minutes then dropped it in gear to see if it would stall anymore and it hasn't so far (about 10~15 times I've done this so far)

http://minimopar.knizefamily.net/idleprobl...ml#minairadjust

Mike
 

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sounds like my charger...centered AIS then it kinda ''learned" the new settings and smoothed out..after my t2 conversion........

my old mp comp would learn and after a week or so it would go wacky and i would have to reset it....

eef
 

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Discussion Starter #12
The thing is that in park/neutral I still get the idle hunt it seems to go from 900~1000 but in gear it sits right at 900 and idles right there. (Approximate numbers - digi dash)

When I start the car up - if I don't give it a few minutes to warm up and I drop it in gear it kills the engine like dropping the clutch unless I give it a little gas first. But after it's warmed up I can put it into park and drive and neutral all I want...

Idle a little low? I really need a scanner to see if the AIS is trying to compensate for a low idle or a high idle when not in gear.

Mike
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Well I had just installed my A/F, EGT and boost gauges tonight.

I was watching the output from the O2 at idle and as long as it bounced up and down like it *should* the idle was fine in park - but every once in a while it would drop off the A/F gauge (no lights) and the engine would run rough and vibrate more - enough to notice.

Like if at idle it stayed rough or stayed smooth you wouldn't notice it - but it goes from smooth to rough whether it's 900,1000, or 1200.

Going to go ahead and get a Mopar O2 and swap it in and see if that solves the problem.

Mike
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Yes 3-wire - pulling the 4-wire out of the V6 I have chillin in front of my house ($25 parts car) and swapping it in and running the ground for the sensor. I don't like this 3-wire bad-signal garbage!

=)

Mike
 

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I have the same exact problem with my 87 Daytona Turbo I automatic car. I still haven't got it fixed yet. All sensors are new including the AIS.
 
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