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Discussion Starter #1
The GLHS was running rough when I started it.
It stumbled and died about 10 minutes after idling.
I’ve never got these codes before and all three happened together.

Code 33
A/C Cutout Relay
If the relay does not turn on and off when it should.

Code 41
Alternator Field Control (Charg-ing System)
If the field control fails to switch properly.

Code 52
Oxygen Feed-back System
If the system stays rich for more than 2 minutes.
 

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I would suggest exercising the blue and red connectors at the logic module Jim. Pull them off easy, look for signs of water or corrosion, dab in a bit of dielectric grease on each female connector, reassemble. If you get real curious, remove the cover of the logic module and confirm it has not gotten moist/wet inside and the PCB and edge connector pins all look good and crisp.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I would suggest exercising the blue and red connectors at the logic module Jim. Pull them off easy, look for signs of water or corrosion, dab in a bit of dielectric grease on each female connector, reassemble. If you get real curious, remove the cover of the logic module and confirm it has not gotten moist/wet inside and the PCB and edge connector pins all look good and crisp.
Steven:

You just reminded me of something.
We had a sudden change in weather and the whole car was covered in moisture from the warm weather and rain (car is in the garage).
The car cover, engine compartment and windows were all wet.

I’ll bet what you said about the LM is the cause.
The last time I was at the car I got a code 11and 12.
12 having to do with power to the logic module.
That’s got to be it.

Thanks👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Updates:

No more code 33 and 52
Code 12: normal since I disconnnected the battery.
Code 22: normal since I disconnected the coolant temp sensor (to set the timing)

Disconnected and removed the battery.
Disconnected the two multi-pin connectors from the power module.
Cleaned both connectors and the power module pin-outs with Caig Deoxit.
Added dielectric grease and reconnected.
Battery reinstalled.
Turned the key a few times to prime the injectors.
Tried to start it and it cranked but wouldn’t turn over.
Foot to the floor and cranked it and it started.
Had to maintain 2000rpm to keep it running.
After a few minutes it idled on its own.
Tried to check timing and when I removed the coolant sensor connector ( fan on continuously) the engine died.

Tomorrow I’ll check the connections at the Logic Module including the MAP sensor.
Could also be a vacuum leak.
Could be the timing is off.
Could be moisture on the connectors as Todd said.

A real stupid question that I have to ask:
What would happen if the fuel feed and return lines were reversed at the tank?
 

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"What would happen if the fuel feed and return lines were reversed at the tank?"

Well I guess the fuel pump would then be pumping backwards into the fuel pressure regulator so I don't think but dont know that the regulator is going to work with fuel flowing in the wrong direction. I dunno.

The pedal to the floor and it cranks is the common get it to start when it is flooded process. WOT during cranking and the brain turns off the fuel injectors...this is to clear excess fuel from the cylinders. If you had a leaky fuel injector or fuel pressure regulator, that fuel is going into the engine and will if enough flood the engine, that is why it starts then blubbers till it can clear all the excess fuel. I would suggest that maybe you see if you are loosing fuel pressure immediately when you turn the key to off after engine has been started or before engine starts and the fuel pump has primed the system. You MAY be leaking fuel into the cylinder(s).

Just a side note, cranking the engine w/o the HEP disconnected will still allow the fuel pump to run and the injectors to fire which will flood the engine. This can happen when you do something like pull the coil wire to keep it from starting while you get the engine to turn over to build OIL pressure first...like right after a rebuild. WOT during cranking will help clear excess fuel from a fuel soaked cylinder(s).
 

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Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
Thanks Steven.
I never should have sold my fuel pressure gauge.
I’ll get a gauge kit and check the pressure at the rail.
After 31 years there’s a good possibility there’s a leak in the injector(s) or the FPR.
 

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FPRs often start to leak after age especially if the car was parked for a longer period of time, like years. I have had 2 maybe 3 go bad on me not long after bringing the car back to life. One way to tell quickly if it is leaking is to prime the pump or run the car a bit then shut it off, wait maybe a minute and pull the vacuum line off the FPR. If it is wet or drips out fuel you know for sure it is leaking and needs to be replaced.
 

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A real stupid question that I have to ask:
What would happen if the fuel feed and return lines were reversed at the tank?
That would be hard to do since the outlet at the tank is 5/16" and the inlet (return) is 1/4".

Code 52 will not set immediately, it takes time to meet the criteria to set the code, however you mentioned you had a Code 41...
If charging voltage or battery voltage is low the controller increases injector pulse width which will cause you to be rich and set a Code 52.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
That would be hard to do since the outlet at the tank is 5/16" and the inlet (return) is 1/4".

Code 52 will not set immediately, it takes time to meet the criteria to set the code, however you mentioned you had a Code 41...
If charging voltage or battery voltage is low the controller increases injector pulse width which will cause you to be rich and set a Code 52.
Regarding the fuel hose routing, yes I did route them correctly.
I figured I better check every last thing from the tank to the fuel rail, and the reason for my stupid question.Thanks Jan:

Regarding codes 41 and 52, that’s now making a lot of sense because a few months ago it started right up.
Then I didn’t try to start it for the first time in months, and these things started happening.
The voltage gauge shows it’s in a high state of charge.
I’m going to take the battery out and charge it.
It’s brand new and wasn’t charged up before I installed it so I’ll bet it’s low on charge.
The continuous brutal cold weather didn’t help either.

Thanks again, because if it’s that, and the car starts, then you saved me the cost of an FPR 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
 

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Jim, are you running the stage two logic module? I am in 958. If I allow the fuel pump to prime more than once when cold, the car is hard to start.

Could my base ignition timing be too advanced? If it gets too much fuel from the prime it goes "ruh, ruh, ruh....ruh......ruh.....ruh.....ruh". It does this regardless of outside temp. Though it's a little slower cranking when it's under 40 degrees out.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Jim, are you running the stage two logic module? I am in 958. If I allow the fuel pump to prime more than once when cold, the car is hard to start.

Could my base ignition timing be too advanced? If it gets too much fuel from the prime it goes "ruh, ruh, ruh....ruh......ruh.....ruh.....ruh". It does this regardless of outside temp. Though it's a little slower cranking when it's under 40 degrees out.
I’m running the Mopar Performance stage II yes.
And yes that’s the same sound mine makes and slower when it’s cold.
My timing hasn’t been changed so it’s not that.
I’m just waiting for some warmer weather and some sun and I’ll get back to it.
 

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Interesting! What I do to combat the issue is to go straight from the off position to start so the ASD can't prime the motor. It seems to fire up really quick that way.

This is all in the past now though. I might be plopping a super 60 SMEC in if I can get one of these new Turbos Unleashed harnesses soon enough to put in and experiment with. Otherwise I might have to use the old modded SMEC harness from Dennis Doza's drag car for right now. The head is off. I have a ported +1 valve 287 I'm going to run this year.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
This is all in the past now though. I might be plopping a super 60 SMEC in if I can get one of these new Turbos Unleashed harnesses soon enough to put in and experiment with. Otherwise I might have to use the old modded SMEC harness from Dennis Doza's drag car for right now. The head is off. I have a ported +1 valve 287 I'm going to run this year.[/QUOTE]

TU is making harnesses?
👍🏻Excellent
 

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Yes. Chris Wright is working with the manufacturer right now. It seems like GLHS and L body turbo SMEC upgrade might be top priorities. I found out on Facebook a few weeks ago.

Are you on Facebook Jim?

I got my +40% injectors and my new turbo and exhaust for the GLHS from Dennis yesterday. Thank you Dennis Doza!
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Yes. Chris Wright is working with the manufacturer right now. It seems like GLHS and L body turbo SMEC upgrade might be top priorities. I found out on Facebook a few weeks ago.

Are you on Facebook Jim?

I got my +40% injectors and my new turbo and exhaust for the GLHS from Dennis yesterday. Thank you Dennis Doza!
I left FB about 5 years ago.
 

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I was talking to Dennis the other day about how Facebook has killed the forums because it's where almost everyone is chatting and selling parts now. I was also talking to Jamie Kwiatek about how Facebook is garbage for archiving technical data for our cars.
 

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Don't want to hijack the thread and open a facebook Vs forum discussion here but if I may comment please....

"about how Facebook is garbage for archiving technical data for our cars."

There is some truth to this for sure, an organized/categorized archive like that of a traditional discussion forum is not at all easy to achieve in a single group forum however facebook does have a good global search tool and if you know what you are looking for and maybe remember some of the most relevant keywords in your post or the one you saw, it can be found with just using search.

For example, many months ago I posted up a FAQ in the 2.2 technical reference facebook page. That FAQ was on the torque specs for ARP fasteners. I just typed "ARP torque specs" and the first two results were links to my original post.

I did another FAQ on the L-body wiper arms moving slow and why the bushings so often fail. I searched for "87 GLHS Windshield wipers running slow" and again my FAQ was the top link in the search results.

Facebook is surely not a substitute for a categorized discussion forum that so many of us have frequented....but I you can zero in on what you remember seeing here and try the search feature, you might find it with not any more effort than the native search feature.

I'm just sayin'...
 

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Discussion Starter #19
What I will say is that I don’t use FB so I don’t know what’s going on there.
On Wiki I am registered to write info on the 87 GLHS.
I have had to correct mistakes on there many times only to have my edits re-edited.

My info on the 87 GLHS stems from having one parked in the driveway since new.
My brother bought #0325 in October 1986.
I bought an 87 Dodge Shelby Charger in September of 1986.
So we would always compare the differences.
I also knew Tim Pettijohn from the parts dept. at Shelby, so I got lots of inside info on things.

So Wiki you have to take with a grain of salt.
I’ll guess the same for FB.

The only people I would trust for info on anything Shelby Dodge or Dodge would be on this forum ( you guys know who you are), the SDAC, FWD Performance, TU, Tim Pettijohn, Rick Diogo, or ones that have been around for many years that have their own websites dedicated to these cars.
 
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