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Discussion Starter #1
i recently picked up an 87 shelby daytona z turbo 2 with a getrag A-555 5 speed trans, this is now my daily driver as my grand prix shat out the trans. :bang head

it will bearly squak the tires when i dump the clutch hard, and if i bang second i get a little chirp, and i have to hold the throttle open to get it to start, my brother had a glh charger that was a turbo 1 that would bake the tires ruthlessly, i am dumbfounded by this

when i got it it was pegging the boost guage, i found out the wastegate solinoid was missing the bleeder caps, i replaced them and got 5-7psi of boost

before at 15psi the engine would spin to 6k strong, and now it runs out of breath after 4 k, both boost levels had no noticable difference on stoplight tire burning, no spin from just flooring it.

my brother had an 87 shelby charger glh that had an aftermarket computer in it, when it was forced into the junkyard i yankd as much as i could off, computer, supercoil, seats, but no turbo or motor (car was rotted and everything but the engine/turbo/trans was broke) :/ i put the computer in this car and i stuck the coil in it too to aid in firing, i couldnt notice any difference, the computer has the mopar performance image on it and it says "for off road use only" what does the computer control? and are they itnerchangable/easy to short out?

i noticed the lack of an advancing mechanism when cleaning the cap/rotor/plugs, and the car gets excellent spark.

i also did a compression test on one of the clys yesterday, 150psi strong with five cranks and the throttle held open (coil disconnected) today i did them all via the same method and none would hold pressure, i'm thinking my tester got something in the quick connect as the car wouldnt run with it bleeding off that fast.

oh, and any advice to prevent axle breaking?

i'm new to these turbos, i'm a carburator v-8/aircooled four gearhead, and my brother the turbo gienius has passed on so i'm on my own on this one.
 

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put the stock computer back in it. Not sure what you're talking about for bleeder caps but the car should have 12psi stock above 4200rpms. 10psi before that. Don't trust the stock gauge. If it's not hitting overboost cutout at 14.7ish psi then you're ok. If it is hitting overboost then your vac lines are probably cracked and leaking. Replace them with hard nylon lines found at Pep Boys and I think NAPA has them. Also +1 on the code check. READ Donovan's Dodge Garage a couple of times over. It'll help you get the basics.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
put the stock computer back in it. Not sure what you're talking about for bleeder caps but the car should have 12psi stock above 4200rpms. 10psi before that. Don't trust the stock gauge. If it's not hitting overboost cutout at 14.7ish psi then you're ok. If it is hitting overboost then your vac lines are probably cracked and leaking. Replace them with hard nylon lines found at Pep Boys and I think NAPA has them. Also +1 on the code check. READ Donovan's Dodge Garage a couple of times over. It'll help you get the basics.
do they have readers for these things or it it just click the key off and on and read the lights?
 

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if the timing belt snaps, your safe.. non interference engine... make sure you check for codes, if i would have known about it when i got my shelby z, it would have saved me 100$ worth of parts...stupid hall effect sensor...lol
 

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Discussion Starter #10
i checked my codes, all i got was a low voltage code, but i belive thats because my alternator belt has been slipping, that and the code 12.
however i changed computer and drove it to work once, i'llgive it a few more runs.
 
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