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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
88 Reliant 2.2 TBI sat for 10+ years

did a simple tune up plugs,wires,cap,rotor,air/fuel filter and set timing.

Was running decent but since it sat a decade I knew things would rapidly degrade so it started getting the rotted egg smell and then a rough idle and now it stalls when pulling up to a stop it idles down to nothing then either stalls or surges back up to high idle and tries to smooth itself out. Only codes are 33 (Non AC car) and code 52

Tried cleaning TB, running B12 and Marvel through the gas, changed fuel hoses at TB, changed PCV and elbow, taped up tbi harness where factory loom was gone. It keeps running worse and worse everyday but the Fuel filter helped it from bogging in closed loop.

Also tried swapping the map it did nothing (Had a new one lyin around). If I rev it up I get some slight black smoke so something is very wrong with it. And the nasty eg smell even though the cat looks new

I'm guessing it's something in the TB or the SMEC has a issue. Any Ideas?
I have a TB from a 93 2.2 Shadow but I think the injector is different maybe I can swap the sensors?...

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Believe code 52 is O2 sensor running rich.
Yeah I already ordered an oem NTK sensor before this happened. should be in a couple days. but I got a feeling that's not the problem. Everyday it runs worse and worse and the egg smell is really bad and there's black smoke too....
 

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Yeah I already ordered an oem NTK sensor before this happened. should be in a couple days. but I got a feeling that's not the problem. Everyday it runs worse and worse and the egg smell is really bad and there's black smoke too....
this code is as reads in the manual: idle adapt is at rich limit, which means the computer can not overcome a lean condition, this usually because of a bad/leaking egr valve. pull it out and try to blow through the exhaust side, you'll probably find you can. readily available from many parts sources. I was a Dodge/Chrysler tech for 15 years, I know exactly what I'm talking about.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
this code is as reads in the manual: idle adapt is at rich limit, which means the computer can not overcome a lean condition, this usually because of a bad/leaking egr valve. pull it out and try to blow through the exhaust side, you'll probably find you can. readily available from many parts sources. I was a Dodge/Chrysler tech for 15 years, I know exactly what I'm talking about.
I was about to take the 94 Sundance IAC I had lying around on a TB and put it in the car. I'll take the EGR off 1st and check it I have a spare gasket from my other TBI car.

Can I just block the egr for now? Most local auto parts stores don't have parts for these cars anymore I've had to order everything online..
 

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These egr valves are readily available online from Rockauto etc. don't worry about the variety of numbers, they really don't make much difference. You may be able to find a number on your valve. I can't recommend blocking the port, the whole fuel ratio strategy is formatted around the darn thing in the computer and it will ping, as that's what egr valves are really for. They're more of a performance enhancing device than an emissions control device, as they allow for a more advanced timing strategy, though they do quite a bit to control hydrocarbon emissions. You can't use that late a model of TBI because they lowered the fuel pressure coming from the pump (15psi versus 50 psi 84 to 92 or thereabouts) significantly about 1992 so the injector and pressure regulator WILL NOT BE COMPATIBLE and it will run really rich. You may need to replace the O2 sensor anyway because the poor running condition may have sooted up the sensor.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
These egr valves are readily available online from Rockauto etc. don't worry about the variety of numbers, they really don't make much difference. You may be able to find a number on your valve. I can't recommend blocking the port, the whole fuel ratio strategy is formatted around the darn thing in the computer and it will ping, as that's what egr valves are really for. They're more of a performance enhancing device than an emissions control device, as they allow for a more advanced timing strategy, though they do quite a bit to control hydrocarbon emissions. You can't use that late a model of TBI because they lowered the fuel pressure coming from the pump (15psi versus 50 psi 84 to 92 or thereabouts) significantly about 1992 so the injector and pressure regulator WILL NOT BE COMPATIBLE and it will run really rich. You may need to replace the O2 sensor anyway because the poor running condition may have sooted up the sensor.
I meant just the IAC I already took it off that TB. Rockauto says the TPS is different and the fpr/injector are high pressure. Maybe the temp sensor from that tb will work?

I'll pull the egr and blow through it before trying to get those torx bolts off the iac thats in the car.

Last time I had a bad egr was a 2.8 86 Firebird it made it idle rough and the one in my 91 Pontiac 6000 3.1 mpfi fept stalling running rough...
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
These egr valves are readily available online from Rockauto etc. don't worry about the variety of numbers, they really don't make much difference. You may be able to find a number on your valve. I can't recommend blocking the port, the whole fuel ratio strategy is formatted around the darn thing in the computer and it will ping, as that's what egr valves are really for. They're more of a performance enhancing device than an emissions control device, as they allow for a more advanced timing strategy, though they do quite a bit to control hydrocarbon emissions. You can't use that late a model of TBI because they lowered the fuel pressure coming from the pump (15psi versus 50 psi 84 to 92 or thereabouts) significantly about 1992 so the injector and pressure regulator WILL NOT BE COMPATIBLE and it will run really rich. You may need to replace the O2 sensor anyway because the poor running condition may have sooted up the sensor.
Thanks you are the TBI 🤴.
Put a temp plate on now it runs mint. Egr was wide open...
 

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I meant just the IAC I already took it off that TB. Rockauto says the TPS is different and the fpr/injector are high pressure. Maybe the temp sensor from that tb will work?

I'll pull the egr and blow through it before trying to get those torx bolts off the iac thats in the car.

Last time I had a bad egr was a 2.8 86 Firebird it made it idle rough and the one in my 91 Pontiac 6000 3.1 mpfi fept stalling running rough...
Yes, the temp sensor is the same, if my recollection is correct. This of course depends on the connector being the same. Be sure and clean the sludge off of the pintle tip of the IAC motor if it needs it You can use Carb or Brake cleaner.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Yes, the temp sensor is the same, if my recollection is correct. This of course depends on the connector being the same. Be sure and clean the sludge off of the pintle tip of the IAC motor if it needs it You can use Carb or Brake cleaner.
Actually never got to the IAC the EGR was wide open so a temporary block off made it run mint...
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Very good, glad I could help.
I also have a 89 Aries 2.2 TBI. I wonder if the random bogging and random cat smell are also the EGR.I changed almost everything else even "Rebuilt" the Throttle Body"
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I wanted to try the 94 Sundance 2.2 EGR but the manifold looks like it's different. got the motor from the junkyard as a spare because these cars are almost out of circulation and I can't find the EGR...
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That's a real good possibility as the fuel mixture gets driven so far rich because of the bad EGR and it stinks to high heaven. What an odd coincidence that you would have 2 bad EGRs
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
That's a real good possibility as the fuel mixture gets driven so far rich because of the bad EGR and it stinks to high heaven. What an odd coincidence that you would have 2 bad EGRs
Well both cars are over 30 and common issues seem to pop up at the same time on similar vehicles. Both cars must have sat a long time the Aries just hit 70k Reliant is at 45K miles.
That sudden shock of daily driving makes things that are atrophied disintegrate. Both cars had the brake hoses collapse and the brakes got stuck, both had stuck thermostats, both have trouble rolling the rear windows down probably from lack of use, both cars the shocks/struts blew out in weeks and the tires were all dry rotted when I got them....

Just did the Reliant front struts the car would jump violently because the struts would compress then not go back up never seen that before. I used some $11 struts for a 92 Lebaron vert.
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I have several of the 80s cars and look at throttle body rebuilds and EGR replacement as preventive maintenance when I pick up a "new" car. Most parts are very cheap and widely available - especially via eBay and Rock Auto - and the jobs are very simple. Replacement EGRs are about 20 bucks. Not worth my time to pull off, clean, etc.

Had a very similar issue with an '89 Sundance last summer. In addition to the smell, the plugs and O2 sensor were very sooty. Replaced EGR valve (with transducer) and rebuilt throttle body. While doing the latter discovered both of the fuel injector O-rings were in pieces and the IAC O-ring was gone. Refreshed it all with a kit from R.A. and several new Mopar components. Also replaced about six feet of vacuum line that had become crispity-crunchity. No issues since.
 

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Code 52 is "Rich Exhaust Indication" meaning that O2 voltage is latched above .450 volts and controller fuel corrections cannot rectify the problem.
Your "rotten egg smell" is caused by the Cat overworking/overheating in an attempt to clean up the excessive hydrocarbons because you are running rich, eventually, if you continue to run the car this way the Cat will be damaged.

Code 52 and a "latched above .450 volts O2 Voltage" can be caused by numerous things, a faulty O2 sensor is only one of many possibilities.

Here is Chryslers Diagnostic Flow Chart for Driveabilty Without Fault Codes or Codes 51/52.
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Let me know if/when you are ready to tackle this problem.
 

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On those window issues, what is usually the case is that the gear ribbons are gunked up from factory white grease lube that should have been never applied in the first place because Nylon is, basically, self lubricating. I recommend removing the door panels and using brake clean spray to thoroughly clean the gunk from the gear ribbon and the t track that it runs on. I add an extension to the straw of 3/32nds vacline so that the spray can be directed all around to the back side and up and down as the track is the main culprit for retention of the gunk. Some silicone spray lube can also be applied after cleaning as the brake clean can be quite un-lubricating in its effect.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
On those window issues, what is usually the case is that the gear ribbons are gunked up from factory white grease lube that should have been never applied in the first place because Nylon is, basically, self lubricating. I recommend removing the door panels and using brake clean spray to thoroughly clean the gunk from the gear ribbon and the t track that it runs on. I add an extension to the straw of 3/32nds vacline so that the spray can be directed all around to the back side and up and down as the track is the main culprit for retention of the gunk. Some silicone spray lube can also be applied after cleaning as the brake clean can be quite un-lubricating in its effect.
Thanks for the info I was going to remove the entire interior so I can spray some ACE hardware rust stop paint everywhere. These cars love to rust out starting from the inside. When I do that I'll follow your instructions for the rear windows. the rear left will roll down very slow the right one doesn't move at all.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Code 52 is "Rich Exhaust Indication" meaning that O2 voltage is latched above .450 volts and controller fuel corrections cannot rectify the problem.
Your "rotten egg smell" is caused by the Cat overworking/overheating in an attempt to clean up the excessive hydrocarbons because you are running rich, eventually, if you continue to run the car this way the Cat will be damaged.

Code 52 and a "latched above .450 volts O2 Voltage" can be caused by numerous things, a faulty O2 sensor is only one of many possibilities.

Here is Chryslers Diagnostic Flow Chart for Driveabilty Without Fault Codes or Codes 51/52.
View attachment 276640

Let me know if/when you are ready to tackle this problem.
I ended up trying
patrick barnes
Suggestion and the EGR was wide open so a Small piece of aluminum flashing and a drill bit for the vacuum hose made the car run perfect. Ordered a new egr. I think I read 25 threads about code 52 and no one ever said how they fixed it or if they figured it out...
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
I have several of the 80s cars and look at throttle body rebuilds and EGR replacement as preventive maintenance when I pick up a "new" car. Most parts are very cheap and widely available - especially via eBay and Rock Auto - and the jobs are very simple. Replacement EGRs are about 20 bucks. Not worth my time to pull off, clean, etc.

Had a very similar issue with an '89 Sundance last summer. In addition to the smell, the plugs and O2 sensor were very sooty. Replaced EGR valve (with transducer) and rebuilt throttle body. While doing the latter discovered both of the fuel injector O-rings were in pieces and the IAC O-ring was gone. Refreshed it all with a kit from R.A. and several new Mopar components. Also replaced about six feet of vacuum line that had become crispity-crunchity. No issues since.
I forgot about the egr valves.I like old cars because there's less junk to go wrong. When I source the engine harness I'm gonna T2 swap the Reliant and I have everything besides the ecm and harness to do the 86 Lebaron LOG to T2 swap. So no more egr besides the 89 Aries 2.2 TBI.
I never liked egr and today they have even worse emissions junk....
 
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