I need advice on how much boost i should run. I have 3in exhaust (full) 2.5 cam swap, hard piped, BOV, 3in swing arm from Turbo, air intake, and thats about it. If you could explain in detail it would be nice to learn this shit thanks
88 Shelby Z
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Thats going to be a matter of everyones opinion. Just remeber this, factory is safe, 30# is a whole lot faster! If its intercooled, then I would say 15-17#'s. On a t2 anything over 14.7#'s will cause fuel/ing cutout, so you'll have to fool the map sensor into thinking you only running 14.7#. Once you do this, you can not be mad at the car if it breaks.
james
If its intercooled, then I would say 15-17#'s. On a t2 anything over 14.7#'s will cause fuel/ing cutout, so you'll have to fool the map sensor into thinking you only running 14.7#. Once you do this, you can not be mad at the car if it breaks. james
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add a wideband to the setup first, just my :two cents:
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^agree!
And if you wanna run more boost I would suggest getting a calibration and a 3 bar map (also larger injectors according to the stage of calibration) from FWD Performance! This is normally the safer way of running more boost then fooling the map and leaving the car to fend for itself at higher boost levels.
With the map bleed set up an adjustable fuel pressure regulator and a wideband are a must to make sure you dont blow the motor
And if you wanna run more boost I would suggest getting a calibration and a 3 bar map (also larger injectors according to the stage of calibration) from FWD Performance! This is normally the safer way of running more boost then fooling the map and leaving the car to fend for itself at higher boost levels.
With the map bleed set up an adjustable fuel pressure regulator and a wideband are a must to make sure you dont blow the motor
If you want to be cheap and risky check out Donovan's Dodge Garage or www.DempseyBowling.com or Gus Mahon Homepage. To make more boost, you'll need more fuel.
Where can I find the voltage regulator on a 1988 daytona shelby z? I started it up earlier and it fired up perfectly. I drove it and it acted like it was going to stall and it was missing real bad in the first four gears then it was fine in fifth. My dad took it out and it was doing the same thing and when he got back the oil stick had slightly poped off and had spewed oil everywhere. Now it wont turn over, I turn the key and can hear a click but it doesnt start at all. Please help me
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88 Posts
If your oil stick was popped out then you probably had too much crank case pressure. This could be caused from bad rings letting compression threw into the cank case. Or even a blown head gasket.
Pull the spark plugs out and then try to crank the engine.
See if anything comes out (oil or coolant)
One or more of the cyc. my have coolant in them and not allowing your starter to turn the engine over (called hydrolock).
Pull the spark plugs out and then try to crank the engine.
See if anything comes out (oil or coolant)
One or more of the cyc. my have coolant in them and not allowing your starter to turn the engine over (called hydrolock).
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88 Posts
Could be bad rings.
Did you do the head gasket personally or take it some where?
I have seen new ones blow before. Even in naturally aspirated engines.
If you get coolant out of the cyc. then either gasket or cracked head or block.
Did you do the head gasket personally or take it some where?
I have seen new ones blow before. Even in naturally aspirated engines.
If you get coolant out of the cyc. then either gasket or cracked head or block.
Check the starter soleind. If you can, jump it with a screwdriver while the car is in park or in nuetral with the brake on. If it still won't start, and you confirm you have power to the starter while trying to crank(check for a loose or bad ground) then pull your starter and you should be able to get it tested at a local parts store. Or just buy a new one and see if it solves your problem, if not, return it.
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88 Posts
Could be the starter.
The one thing that doesn't match up is the runability issue except for what newmember said about the ground. A bad ground could cause both starter and driving issues
The one thing that doesn't match up is the runability issue except for what newmember said about the ground. A bad ground could cause both starter and driving issues
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Have you had the timing belt checked recently?? i ran into a similar issue, ready to go on a road trip, and of course right before i left, the key turned, a small click, and nothing. replaced the timing belt, and i was all good!
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