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Sounds like your onto something. That is exactly what it sounded like in your video. I'm sure you don't feel lucky at this point, however pulling the fuel rail and injectors is super easy on this manifold vs. the 2 piece designed intake. If it were me, I would pull the injectors and fuel rail as an assembly and reconnect the inlet and outlet of fuel line back together to vehicle, unplugging the rectangular injector connector. Jump the positive side of coil (like before) to get the fuel pump to pressurize, and run some jumper wires to negative and positive side of injector harness. FYI- The green with black tracer is the same 12 volt positive that connects to the positive side of coil.
FYI- The SMEC provides 12 volts to all four injectors all the time key is in run position and by manipulating the ground for the injectors they batch fire two cylinders at a time. 1&2 batch fire, and 3&4 batch fire. So, you can then run a jumper wire to the negative side of the harness connector and ground. The 1&2 negative side should be a white with dark blue tracer colored wire, while the 3&4 should be a tan colored wire. You can run them into clear container(s) to observe spray pattern (or not). I'm guessing three will not (lol)! Disposable plastic water bottle(s) works great. Breaking the electrical connection repeatedly may get them to work.
After you've concluded they don't externally leak, you can decide to have them rebuilt or not. If they do leak externally, they cannot be rebuilt. MrInjector.com (Bill Johnson) does an outstanding job rebuilding them. Last I knew he charged around $17.50 per injector. Complete with before and after flow sheet. Turns them around in 24 hours or so. You should inspect the rubber boot around each injector, If they are cracked, it may be the reason the injectors are not firing, due to corrosion. To get the EV1 electrical connector disconnected, you need to use a very small screwdriver or pick, and remove the stainless wire attachment. After removing, the injector connector will come right off. To install, you can assemble stainless wire on connector, and just snap into place. Also make sure all connections are good and corrosion free at the injector harness connector.
Good luck!
 

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If you are suspecting the injectors are not being pulsed or are being pulsed but not firing...
1)Noid Lights will tell you if the injectors are being pulsed.
You can rent them for free at AZ.
You can also use a Logic Probe, 12 Volt Test Light, Lab Scope, IMO Noid Lights are the easiest and most efficient method.
Once you determine that all 4 injectors are being pulsed you can test the injectors themselves.

2)To test the injectors themselves without an injector tester or scanner...
a)Check resistance across the injector terminals.
Resistance should be 2.4 ohms.
b)You can manually pulse each injector to see if it is operating.
Connect your fuel pressure gauge
Connect jumper wires to the two fuel injector terminals of the injector being tested.
Connect the jumper on the + injector terminal (power feed) to the battery + terminal.
Connect the other jumper to the injector - (control side) terminal.
Turn the key to the "On" position which should actuate the ASD Relay for one second to
pressurize the fuel rail.
Momentarily touch the jumper connected to the injector - terminal to ground.
(The longer you touch the jumper to ground the longer the injector will stay open, if the fuel rail/injectors are still in the manifold that fuel is going into the engine so do not hold the injector open for long.)
If the injector pulsed fuel pressure should drop.

You can also do this from the injector harness connector which may be easier than trying to place two jumpers in the injector without having them touch each other.
The 2.2L/2.5L engines fire the injectors in pairs, 1/2 and 3/4.
If you choose to do this you will need to disconnect #1 injector when testing #2, and disconnect #4 when testing #3 and disconnect #3 when testing #4 so you are only pulsing one injector at a time.
3)The wires at the injectors are as follows.
a)DG/BK is the power feed from the ASD Relay.
b)WT/DB are the ground side control for cylinders 1 and 2 from SMEC Cavity #9 of the 14 pin connector.
c)Tan(TN) are the ground side control for cylinders 3 and 4 from SMEC Cavity #10 of the 14 pin connector.

PM being sent with additional wiring.
 

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Personally, I had a case where all the injectors wedged at the same time. What I did not do was become ridiculous myself.
Dismantled the nozzles on the stand cleaned installed in its place. And lo and behold, the engine worked perfectly.
 

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Discussion Starter #65
Finally forward Progress!!! Took the whole rail off and tested it as mentioned above. I could only get injector one to pulse. Took all injectors off and bench tested them. None of them other than cylinder 1 will even click. I just ordered 4 Bosch remans, hopefully that does it.....
 

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Keep Us Posted.
Fingers Crossed.gif
 

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Discussion Starter #68
well everyone we've made progress, not perfect but progress. Got the injectors in today, I opted for Bosch re manufactured instead of Chinese ones. Put them in and they all tested to pulse good. Went to start....no dice, it tries a hell of a lot harder but it won't stay running. After playing around for an hr or so I am able to get it to start and run if I pump the gas then hold down the pedal indefinitely. She won't run clean, just a mess of back fires and smoke nonstop, but running non the less. Once I take any pressure off the pedal she's dead. What now??? At least I'm finally making forward progress
 

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Glad your making progress. I see a flicker of light at the end of the tunnel (lol).Hang in there!
Any codes or dash power loss light yet? Your MAP sensor reading seemed quite a bit off last time you posted. In post #58 you were talking about the MAP sensor, but posted picture of TPS sensor? Assuming this is just a slip. MAP is on passenger side strut tower and TPS is on throttle body (on drivers side).
To check your TPS sensor with KOEO, signal wire should be around 1 volt at closed throttle, and as you open throttle, it should progressively and smoothly increase to around 4 volts at WOT.
MAP sensor without vacuum/pressure applied to it should be around 2.30 volts. This will vary at bit as well. If you have the tools to apply precise pressure to the MAP sensor, it should increase in voltage as pressure is applied to it. Somewhere around 14-15 PSI, it will max out between 4.3-4.9 volts. This will vary between MAP sensors year to year and sensor to sensor.
 

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Bad vacuum leak will also do this as it produces a high Map signal and the ECU throws lots of fuel at the problem. Ask me how I know this??? Yup, my foot "slipped" on the right pedal, the boost went up and ripped apart one of the vacuum fittings. I used over a 1/4 tank of gas to go 25miles. Easy fix once home.
 

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Since the car started and did run recheck the spark plugs to see if there is any fouling, do you smell any gasoline in the oil and be sure you have the firing order correct.
Recheck fault codes.
 

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Discussion Starter #72
Ok I finally got some fault codes. Read my fortune and let me know what they truly mean.

15- No speed/distance sensor signal
41- Alternator field control circuit open or shorted
54- No sync pickup signal during engine rotation (turbo only)
and then of course 55.

I haven't gotten a chance to do the TPS and MAP tests again. To be honest I was so pissed friday that it wasn't the injectors I haven't touched the car since. It's 20ish degrees here in PA so I'm gonna heat up the garage tonight and hopefully test more tomorrow.
 

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Discussion Starter #73
Disregard #41, I'm sure that's because I don't have my alternator belt on. I checked the connections on the HEP and didn't notice any broken wires, Checked connections into main harness and they were all good. Is there another way to test a HEP sensor on that distributor.
 

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Discussion Starter #74
ok, to answer my own question ha ha. I put a meter between the signal wire on the HEP and ground. It read 7.8v, spun the motor by hand and it went down to 0, as it would come back around right before coming back up i10 7+v one of the relays under the hood would start chattering like crazy then just as I hit 7+v again I could hear the injectors click and spray. From this I would assume that this sensor is not the issue as it appears to function as necessary.
 

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In your place, I would first check the timing belt tags and the order of the working cycles of the spark plug wires. It happens when the robots of cylinders 1 and 4 are misplaced, there is no synchronization, the wires are installed incorrectly.
Maybe I am incorrectly formulating my opinions, excuse me, I use Google translator, I am from Ukraine.
 

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Code 54 is the reason for your no start.
Code 54 is the Fuel Sync Signal.
The HEP on a turbo car performs two jobs, it supplies a crank/rpm signal (reference signal) so the controller knows the engine is being cranked/running and a fuel sync signal so the controller knows where #1 cylinder is so it can properly fire the injectors.
The signal for #1 cylinder is a shorter square wave than the other 3 cylinders since the shutter on the shutter wheel is smaller than the others, the earlier cars used a cutout in the shutter blade to signal #1.
If either signal is missing while the engine is being cranked the ASD Relay will not be actuated and there will be no power to the fuel pump, + coil and injectors.
If a signal is lost while driving the vehicle will shut down and no restart, most TDers carry a spare HEP with them.
HEP's are a major failure item and finding a quality aftermarket replacement can be difficult at times.
When replacing the HEP, DO NOT bend the wires down the side of the distributor as the factory had them or internal damage to the wiring will occur.
PM being sent with Code 54 diagnostics.
I can however post Principal and Theory here.

DIST. REF. SIGNAL 1.jpg DIST. REF. SIGNAL 2.jpg DIST. REF. SIGNAL 3.jpg DIST. REF. SIGNAL 4.jpg DIST. SYNC SIGNAL 1.jpg DIST. SYNC SIGNAL 2.jpg DIST. SYNC SIGNAL 3.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter #77
Alight here's what I got testing wise tonight based on the Code 54 Testing you sent me NAJ. So, the test basically starts out having you test the two pins going into the HEP for 7+V, if you have that, scrap the HEP and get a new one. I had correct voltage on both those pins, so I guess it's a new HEP for me. but Being an EE I wanted to test these signals a but further and they yielded only more questions.Here are my test results based on the diagram below.

On the Grey Distributor Sync plug
  • Between orange and BLK/LB 8.11v as required by the test
  • Between the TN/YL and BLK/LB 7.67v as required by the test
  • no shorts to ground
When plugged back together and the Orange wire is back probed and the engine rotated it creates a square wave between 8v and 0 (as I would expect???)

On the Black Distributor Reference pick up (which I don't believe was the direct link to 54 but I found a test for elsewhere)
  • Between orange a BLK/LB 8.17v
  • Between GRY/BLK and BLK/LB 4.9v
  • no shorts to ground.
When plugged back together and the Grey is back probed and the engine rotated it creates a square wave between 5v and 0 (as I would expect???) Injectors would not pulse without this plugged in.

269873


So I guess I'm getting a new HEP based on the original 8v manual test on the sync plug. But as far as I can test they seem to work. idk. at this point whats another $30 part. If that fixes it I'll be sure to keep a spare. I have a similar dizzy part go on my Corvette and I always carry a spare now.
 

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I test my HEP on the bench with a old dizzy spinning the shaft with a drill
Here is what I see with my Saleae
More Fun stuff for EE at the following link

"Between GRY/BLK and BLK/LB 4.9v" This is strange as your pulse from both the Hall sensors should be the same just OOP. "The angle between the REF and Sync ranges from 166 to 168 degrees. "
 

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Well it could be worse, it looks like your HEP failed while vehicle was parked at home. Could have been when you where 100 miles from nowhere.
Less than two weeks after I bought my GLHT (under factory bumper to bumper) I'm driving down the road and my car just shut off like I turned off the key. Coasted into a parking lot of a hospital and turn off the key, some 30 miles from home. All the idiot lights and power loss lights illuminate and fuel pump energizes! I'm like WTF? Turn key back to run position, and everything shuts back off. Oh, oh... Honestly, my initial thought was why didn't I purchase that Buick T-type that was on the showroom floor?
Towed car back to Dodge dealer with key in run position and it was diagnosed back to a bad Power Module, fortunately covered under warranty. The replacement PM has lasted 34+ years. Luck of the draw with some electronics I'm afraid.
BTW recently another person on this forum just bought an aftermarket HEP and car ran worse with new replacement HEP. Lots of people have had similar dealings with aftermarket parts so beware of that.
 

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Why don't you fix the HEP? It appears the wires tend to break at the edge of the dizzy as the wires "flap around in the breeze" (a phase Dave Jones likes to say). I had one "bad" hep and I repaired the wires and voom back up and running. You could try the current(Amp) test and "wire wiggle" test.
 
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