[turbokid]

I have an 89 t1 baron. The previous owner claimed to have dropped in another cb motor in it with 10,000 miles on it. I received the car (my dad decided it wasn't worth his time to fix) in a non running state (sorta). I dropped a battery and started it up and it abruptly started to surge and idle crappy. Pulled codes 12, 13, and 55. I put a new HEP and new MAP sensor in it and it seemed to smooth out the idle and it would rev quite freely. Two days ago I dropped a known good and charged battery in it, let it run, and it idled nicely and reved freely and I shut it off and it was dead as a door nail. So yesterday I saw the ground from the engine bay to the intake was unhooked so I put it back on, jumped the car, and it would run for about 2 seconds and die. Left the jumper cables on a bit and started it up and it did the same thing about 5 times before I got pissed off and let it sit. Any ideas on whats wrong??? The battery meter will bounce (a little bit) while it sits there and idles like it would be a ground issue. Can i get a quick review of all main grounds. I know the engine ground in the front was hooked up and the intake ground in the back was hooked up. I have another alternator I am going to try. Could it potentially be the alternator???
Any responses would be appreciated.
Thanks
Q

 

[charger R/T]

first off you need to put a volt meter on it and see if it actually is charging or not. By it shutting off and the battery being dead is an idicator but actual volt readings are needed. When you do put one on also do the basics and check for voltage on the battery feed on the back of the alternator and make sure the alternator has a good ground to the engine. If the car uses rubber bushings in the mounting system it needs to have a cable to make that ground connection. if it does not use the bushings the mounting bolt do it for it. If the alternator is a denso and are very good alternators and rarely have issues.
Tim

 

[turbokid]

it is a Bosch unit. I am leaning toward a wiring issue but when I go back to the yard Tuesday I will check. Thanks

 

[charger R/T]

Its not hard to determine if its a wiring porblem before throwing parts at it put you have to start by fully charging the battery get it running and post the running voltage and we'll go from there.
Tim

 

[turbokid]

Ya i am going to do that tomorrow

 

[turbokid]

The vacuum line plugged into the baro sensor under the map. Where does that go??? It is unhooked on my baron. This picture was taken off of my moms baron.

 

[impuresoul2k3]

Hmmm never seen it hooked it like that

 

[turbokid]

This is a factory car. So its factory harness.

 

[turbokid]

put a brand new alternator and a good charged battery and she drove home with out a hitch

 

[charger R/T]

put a voltmeter on it and see what it is charging at. A fully charged battery will run it for quite a while if the charging system is not working.
Tim

 

[turbokid]

still driving great no problems. Had the car overnight and started right up in the morning. Volt gauge doesn't bounce like it used to and the car runs way better. I doubt its got any more issues. I put a load tester on the alternator and it had no problems. But thanks for your concern. I do have a clacking in the lower end now. I am pretty sure its the flywheel and torque converter not being totally bolted up. Doesn't sound like a spun bearing or a rod knock. I ran my hand up but I didn't feel any missing bolts then again I was only feeling a quarter of the converter. Would I need to pull the motor to fix this???? That would really suck.

 

[charger R/T]

flexplates crack check here http://www.turbododge.com/forums/f4/f22/160876-2-flex-plates-1-week.html
Tim

 

[turbokid]

I am dunno if its cracked or if a bolts missing. I will have to inspect that more.

 

[turbokid]

thanks for the thread