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Discussion Starter #1
To start things off, I'm not only knew to the forum, but I'm new to working on cars that arent carburated. I've never owned a computerized car before, because the only car I did own was converted to carburation.

So, when I fire the car up it idles well in the warm up state. When it drops down to normal idle, it becomes inconsistent. It is around 600-800 rpm and occasionally drops down to 5 for a second, almost like it misses for a second. If I two foot it and raise the rpms to 1500, its smooth but light sputtering and a little pooting from the exhaust.

So far, ive tried wires and plugs, as well as the fuel filter. Ive also set the BTC to factory spec, and (heres were lack of turbo knowledge comes in) when I plug the sensor back in, I cant read the timing anymore. Seems like I should still be able to. I've also changed the air filter and checked the throttle body to see if its dirty, but haven't replaced sensors on it. I tried to find a post on here I saw a few days ago, but can't.

I dont know how or if on a stock car I can adjust the A/F ratio or if thats even the problem. Love the car but need some help.

The car is a 1989 Chrysler TC maserati SOHC 2.2 turbo II.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
My mechanic said the cam timing is correct when we were trying to figure it out.

The same mechanic that couldn't figure out why the car is idling low?

Start getting your hands dirty and pick up some tools and verify the timing.
well, it was an issue of timing with both of us. He checked the cam timing and I checked the base timing. Both were correct.

Something to mention that might help, is that while the sensor was unplugged and the base timing was set, the car ran flawlessly. Plug back in the sensor and let the computer take over, it goes to the shits.

I would hate to say its the computer, because I cannot find a new one and people seem to think $150 for a used one is a good deal.
 

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it's normal not to see the timing mark once you plug the sensor back in.


Start the car up and let it warm up, pull the big vac line that runs to the brake booster off the intake and the car will idle at 3000. This will then tell the ECU to shut the Idle motor. Let it run this way for approx 30 seconds, After 30 seconds unplug the electrical from the idle motor while the car is running then shut the car off and hook the vac line back up. Start the car and using the idle set screw on the TB (Might be covered with a freeze plug cap (a small drill will usually remove the cap) set the idle to 900 rpms. Shut car off and re-connect electrical plug on idle motor.


Also a Mity Vac is a good investment to make sure you don't have any vacuum leaks in the vac harness. These cars need a perfect vac/boost signal to run good. If the timing of both the cam and ignition are spot on then that'd be the next place I'd start investigating.

You can buy rolls of factory nylon line fairly in-expensively here:

https://www.automationdirect.com/adc/Shopping/Catalog/Pneumatic_Components/Flexible_Pneumatic_Tubing_-a-_Hoses/Straight_Nylon_Tubing
 

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Discussion Starter #11
The only codes are the coolant sensor and abs. Coolant sensor from when I unplugged it while setting timing.

I have not had time to check vacuum but I will give that a whirl.

Can a scanner read codes? Havent check for input yet.
 
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