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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
best 1/8 mile ET: 9.704 @ 78.26
best 60 foot: 2.438
best RT: .541

this SUCKS. some notes:

i dynoed at 248whp/302wtq at 17psi with a 2.5" crappy cat and 2.5" downpipe installed. since then i have gone to 3" downpipe and removed the cat. also the boost is turned up 2 psi to 19psi. so im thinking im making at least 25hp more at the wheels. so lets say 275whp and 320wtq.

my clutch is a brand new 4 puck ceramic with the yellow extreme pressure plate.

AFR's were in the low 11's at full boost.

tires are fuzion zri's, which apparently are very good ultra-high performance summer tires (i didnt buy them), but they suck for drag racing. there is extensive long lasting wheel spin in 1st and 2nd.

tire pressure at 21 psi front and 35 rear.

boost control is a grainger valve.

launching is not easy..i have to flutter the throttle and its very slow. i cant use full throttle in 1st or 2nd. i should really say that launching is next to impossible, for me at least.

spare tire and all rear carpeting and seats removed.

gas tank at 1/3 full with half a bottle of octane booster.


my plans:

getting 225/50 r15 bf goodrich gforce drag radials
maybe a two stage boost controller of some kind
upgrading to stage 5 computer and turning up the boost as much as i can until my fuel pump cant handle it.
 

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+1 to what was said above. Get those 60 foot times down, and you will be awesome. If you run at the track alot, your best bet is slicks. Drag radials are nice for the street, but slicks kick ass at the track. Just ask Ondonti and his 1.75 60' :eek:
Keep at it and you will get it. And please keep us updated.
 

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Hell...210hp/291tq is too much for my street tires at the track! You are faster than me at the 1/8 mile by about 2mph. If you cut a lower 60'(which I COMPLETELY sympathise with you!) then you'll probably be doing even better. I'd say the car should be good for LOW 13's in the 1/4 given some traction...I don't think that's bad at all!
 

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yeah traction kills.... now that you have all this boost and money crammed into your car, instead of a stage 5 computer, maybe you should get some real tuning tools like a moates ostrich and a wideband o2 sensor.

You'd be able to detune it down low for an easier launch on street tires, have multiple switchable tunes for street tires/slicks, and i'm pretty sure finding a stage 5 cal to use for "reference" wouldnt be too hard...
 

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what do you mean? do you think most of the bad numbers is me and not the car?
yep. just learning to control alot of power with a standard off the line can be a little tricky. gotta turn it on and make it wet before you ram it in. what i mean is ya gotta feather the throttle or put some sort of 2 stage boost setup on it. can't just hammer that bastard right off the line with street tires with balls out boost. donavan or gus have how to's on their sites.:thumb:
 

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Was that 248whp and 302wtq from Mustang (close to real) or Dynojet unit?

Assuming a curb weight of 3000lb for a stock 1990 Daytona ES Turbo + 200lb driver - jack/spare/rear seats/carpet I'd guess your curb weight to be around 3130lb with you in the car.

248whp (Mustang) should put a 3130lb car/driver down the 1/4 in about 13.56 @ 100.5mph with a sticky launch (say 1.8-1.9 second 60'). That would net mid 8 second 1/8th in the high 70's.

I can say that with some confidence because that's damn near the same power/weight ratio as my Syclone. I trap 13.5-13.6 @ 98mph with an 1/8 mile of 8.5-8.6 @ 78-79.

If you were putting down 275whp, you should be trapping about 4-5mph faster (82-83) in the 1/8.

If you are squealing the crap out of your tires, I could see that hurting your 1/8 mile traps. My Spirit R/T's best was an 8.77 @ 86.5 with a 2.24 second short time spinning a bit through 1st and the top of second (I had to peddle the crap out of it). When I’d cut a 3.0 second 60’ (bog and then crazy wheel spin), I’d trap in the high 70s in the eight and then completely recover in the trap speed department by the ¼ (that run was a 15.0 @ 108mph).

That said, I don’t think your launch is so bad that it’s hurting your traps significantly. Most of my runs were 2.4 60’s and I’d still trap 84-85mph in the eighth. For what it's worth (not much), my guess is you were down on power a bit (closer to 248whp rather than 275) that trip to the track. :confused:
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
the dyno numbers were from a dynojet at the 5% brake setting.

at the racetrack ambient air was probably 15 degrees colder than the dyno runs, BUT, i was doing hot laps with only a few minutes between runs, at 19psi (dyno at 17psi), and the engine compartment was HOTTTTT. plus i did 13 runs. i could see losing horsepower because of all that heat. my air intake is right in front of the battery, but all the heat must be reducing power somewhat right?

i wrote what cars i raced on my timeslips, heres some references from that night:

05+ Acura RSX 9.99 @ 73.65
modified newer (05+?) evo (driver says 396whp) 8.32 @ 88.58
dodge charger srt8 9.274 @ 80.35
shelby mustang (not the GT500) 9.648 @ 78.25
neon srt4 (stock?) 10.256 @ 72.22

yes I am spinning the wheels. 1st cannot see full throttle at any time and 2nd cant until late in the gear.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
okay im in it for slicks...the question is WHAT slicks?

forget what wheels i have now (15 x 6 snowflakes). I need to get another two wheels to mount the slicks on anyway so I can switch between them for the drive home.

I'm assuming wider slicks = better.

So whats the widest wheel/spacer combo I can fit on this car so I can get the widest slicks?

Asa
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
checked cam timing yesterday.

timing belt had skipped a tooth. that would explain alot, especially since ive noticed it bogging and have poor throttle response.

is there a faster way to check cam timing?

right now my procedure is:

rotate engine clockwise by hand until timing mark on flywheel is at 0 on bellhousing
use a mirror to look at cam sprocket and make the cam bearing caps are lined up

problem is, i have an adjustable cam sprocket and it doesnt have the little triangles for alignment, it just has big circles the size of quarters and i guess the middle of them should be aligned...
 

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Ive got 8x22x15 mt slicks and wish i would have gone with the 24.5 inch tall tire in the same width and size, I have not run the car to its full potential off the line yet and my best 60' was 1.96 (broken ebrakes and tracks that are unfriendly to fwd cars,very little to no burnout) but i see others getting 1.7's out of them.
 

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best RT: .541
No one mentioned this so I'm going to.

This is the easiest part to fix. Whatever light you are looking at now, just look at the light above that. For example, If you are looking at the Green, just look at the last Yellow instead. That will chop off exactly .500 off your time giving you a respectable .041 reaction time. Focus only on one light, don't anticipate.

Good luck.
 
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