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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Well, finally got the messed up timing done. New head gasket, etc.
Now fuse block position 1 & 2 don't have power.
1. 4 amp. Gauge cluster, etc.
2. 20 amp. Fuel pump.
This vehicle has two plastic relays and one metal, possibly a relay.
I have replaced both plastic relays.
Anyone have a clue as what to be looking for as to no power issue?
The old lady who owns the vehicle, since new, needs it back. She lives aways out there and hasn't the means of buying another vehicle.
 

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The above statement is absolutely correct.

The ASD Relay has 2 power feeds, a ground side control and a power output.
Red (RD) Wire - Constant battery power through a White Fusible Link
Dark Blue (DB) - Switched Ignition Voltage from the Ignition Switch.
Dark Blue/Yellow (DB/YL) - Ground Side Control from the SBEC Cavity 51
Dark Green/Black (DG/BK) - Power Output to Fuse #2, SBEC Cavity 3, HO2S, Fuel Injector(s), + Ignition Coil.

Remember...
There will not be any output from the ASD until the engine controller see's a Crank (RPM) signal and a Fuel Sync Signal (Turbo cars only), checking power at Fuse #2 with just the key on will result in no power being present.
If you checked power on Fuse #2 with the engine cranking and there was no power present your issue may be related to a HEP issue rather than an ASD Relay issue.

You can manually actuate the ASD Relay to see if it is functioning correctly.
1)Locate the underhood diagnostic connector.
2)Connect a jumper wire to the DB/YL wire.
3)Turn the key "on".
4)Connect the other end of the jumper wire to a good ground.
5)You should now have power to all ASD Relay controlled components.
(NOTE - A Code 42 will be stored in memory)
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So you have spark or the car would not run with spray into the TBI unit which tells you the ASD Relay and HEP are fine.

Recheck for power into Fuse #2 with the engine cranking or the ASD manually actuated.
I assume you also checked the fuse itself?
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Finally running. BEP went bad at some point during all the work. I had a spare, so easy fix. Timed by ear. Idles at 1k.
130k miles, not to bad. Now exhaust repair from pulling the head.
 

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That is a typo and probably should have read "HEP", Hall Effect Pickup which is located in the distributor under the distributor cap, on your car it connects to the harness with one 3 wire connector.
 

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What exactly is the problem?
Follow the diagnostics in this thread and let me know what the result is.
 
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