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if it has to be held down to start the car might be clogged but you would be able to hear it leaking air after it dies lol i had a buddie's car clog the muffler and it would push the springs at the ball flange off while running and then leak air out the tail pipe untill it was out of pressure.
 

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When I got my 90 turbo voyager it was running very rich. Turns out the timing was set waaay advanced. Once I set it back everything was ok. Well, it ran OK once i realized the distributor ran in the opposite direction I assumed...
 

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Something has been overlooked here...
For the car to run you only need a few basics...
Fuel/Air/Compression/Ignition...
All have to happen at the right time in the right amounts.

You stated previously the car had old fuel and you added 1 gallon of fresh fuel and the car started...
Has the fuel issue been corrected and have the injectors been cleaned or verified to be flowing correctly?
Remove the fuel inlet and place the hose in a Clean/Clear/Glass Jar and turn the key on.
Allow the fuel to sit in the jar to settle and look for contaminants and water which will settle in the bottom of the jar.

Once you know that you have Good Fuel and the Injectors are not "gummed" (not flowing enough or stuck open).

1)Compression is at least 100 PSI on all 4 cylinders.
2)Cam Timing is correct
3)Ignition Timing is correct
4)Engine Vacuum is 16-20" HG @ Idle.
4)Ignition System is capable of at least 25 KV at the plug.
5)STATIC Fuel Pressure is 53-57 PSI.
6)All engine grounds(especially intake to firewall) are connected and secure on a clean/non-corroded/non painted surface.
7)TPS Voltage is below 1.00 volt at closed throttle.
8)Coolant Temp Voltage is within range for your ambient temp on a cold engine.
9)Map initial Baro Reading is correct and Map Voltage changes with engine cranking.

CAM TIMING
http://www.turbododge.com/forums/f4/f14/359212-cam-timing-belt-tension-84-95-a.html

CHECKING FUEL PRESSURE
http://www.turbododge.com/forums/f4/f14/358339-checking-fuel-pressure-84-93-turbo.html

CHECKING MAP VOLTAGE
http://www.turbododge.com/forums/f4/f14/344296-code-13-diagnostics.html

COOLANT TEMP VOLTAGE


CHECKING IGNITION OUTPUT,HEI SPARK TESTER
Great Neck/Adjustable ignition spark tester (25069) | Ignition Tester | AutoZone.com
Buy KD Tools Ignition Tester KDT2756 at Advance Auto Parts
 

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Discussion Starter · #51 ·
NAJ - I have made sure the timing is good both with the cam, and the distributor. The fuel pressure is good, as is the compression. I have pulled the air cleaner off so I know its getting air. I have yet to pull the injectors and see if that is the issue. That is my next test. I also have not checked the TPS voltage, or the coolant temp sensor. I will check those and then see what happens.
Waterbird 808- If none of these checks work, then I will be picking one up soon.
 

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Basically everything I posted is all that is needed for this engine to start and run.
If all of that checks ok then you may very well have a controller issue.
There is no way to test the controller especially with no fault codes set, you can only check the basics and related circuits and if they check ok the "assumption" is the controller is faulty.
 

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Discussion Starter · #53 ·
I am where the van is now, so I will be workin on it a bit more this weekend. I tried getting it to start, and managed to get it to run, but only if I kept pumping the gas pedal. And even then, it would still stall eventually. Lots of black smoke on start up, and grey smoke while it is running. I am still going to check the TPS sensor and the coolant temp sensor, but I am pretty sure it is fuel related.
When I crank on it and dont touch the gas pedal, it does nothing. When I pump the gas while cranking it, it tries to catch. Then I pump it more and it will start. I have to pump it and feather it to keep it running. Seems like I have a fuel issue to me.
 

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Discussion Starter · #55 ·
Well I checked the fuel pressure today, and it bounces around 50 psi with the FRP unplugged. Once I plug it back in, it drops to 40 psi. That should mean the FRP is ok right?
The fuel pressure seems VERY high to me. What would cause that? Would it be vacuum leaking?
When the key is turned, I do NOT hear the pump making any noise when I put my ear next to the filler tube. I was thinking it might be the fuel pump, but dont want to drop the tank for nothing. But with the fuel pressure being high, I would think the pump is working just fine.

I picked up a brake bleeder/ vacuum tester today at Harbor Frieght. I did not get a chance to use it, but I will tomorrow. I will check out the MAP as well.
 

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I can send you my ecu to you for borrow. Just pay the shipping and return shipping or use it if it solve the problem and get your ecu to calibrate in the mean time or someone might have one for sale.

If I ship it on monday you should recieve it either wendsday or thursday the most.
 

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Discussion Starter · #57 ·
I can send you my ecu to you for borrow. Just pay the shipping and return shipping or use it if it solve the problem and get your ecu to calibrate in the mean time or someone might have one for sale.

If I ship it on monday you should recieve it either wendsday or thursday the most.
If the tests I do 2marrow don't prove anything, then I will hit you up. My zip is 95825. How much will it be to ship? Rough estimate.

I see you have an 89.... Mine is a 90. Do you have a 90 ECU?
 
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