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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
i have a 91 turbo shadow convertible. it has drums on the rear. i want to convert them to discs. has anyone done this or have any info that might help me get started on this path?

thanks
 

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you can use rear discs from a daytona, another shadow or sundance. and you will probably need th eebrake cable for the rear discs and some people say to bump up the brake cylinder to the 24mm or whatever th eone is thats better than stock
 

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Hoses are gonna be different and you may want to grab the hubs from the donor as well. 24mm MC is the upgrade for early cars, yours may have it already. Should be stamped in the top front of the housing. 7/8" is common.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
ok, does anyone have like an A-Z rear disc conversion? no offense guys but "probably should", "people say" and "should be" arent phrases that i find very inspirational. until i know what im getting into, i am not changing anything. its not worth a risk of getting halfway done to realize it aint happening.

so it seems at the onset, the first thing i need to do is figure out which master cylinder i have? 24mm is the better preferred master cylinder? ok what do you mean 7/8" is common? what hoses are going to be different? do i actually need the hubs or no? are the discs on a daytona and shadow the same? do i actually need the e-brake cable or not?
 

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you will need th eebrake cable, and you should get the better master cylinder - just call the parts store and aske them what came stock on your year car and go from there if you dont have the good one then get it. their are 4 bolts that hold the rear disc assemblies to the rear beam you need everything after that-i am in the process of putting daytona rear discs on my sundance and i have found that they bolt up and the lines are the same , rule of thumb- get parts and then when you have them in front of you you can out what you will need to change or not change. i know it sounds like you would be wasting money but ive never bought anything that i couldnt use witha little modding or sell to someone else that could use it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
i dont mind buying extra parts, i have tons of them already and might even have some of what i need. i am even getting ready to part out a black 90 es daytona when i get home. i have a black 90 vnt daytona in addition to my shadow vert.
 

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87shelbyt2 said:
Hoses are gonna be different and you may want to grab the hubs from the donor as well. 24mm MC is the upgrade for early cars, yours may have it already. Should be stamped in the top front of the housing. 7/8" is common.
The hubs and spindles are the same for the 5 lug cars.

Even the shelby charger 5 lug hub/spindle is the same as the 11" rear disc hub/spindle. I am not sure if the van rear hub/spindle is the same, but the cars all seem to be.

-Rich
 

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rfb6435 said:
The hubs and spindles are the same for the 5 lug cars.

Even the shelby charger 5 lug hub/spindle is the same as the 11" rear disc hub/spindle. I am not sure if the van rear hub/spindle is the same, but the cars all seem to be.

-Rich
Yeah wasn't positive about the hubs, but it coulda saved him another trip to the JY.
 

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I just did this whole swap. I used a 92 'tona donor that looked like it hit a wall at around 200 mph. Vented rotor. I swapped the whole axle to get the solid rear sway bar, or you can just swap the spindles and caliper brackets, if you so desire.

Notes:
1. P-brake cables Mopar #4383890. I am a Chrysler dealership parts manager, I use Mopar stuff. I think they were 30 each, also fit 91-95 spirit 4 wheel disc.
2. hoses same as donor car.
3. Proportioning valve on Shadow, interestingly enough, same on drums or disks.
It you are adventurous and need more rear brake bias, a Dynasty or New Yorker prop valve is 20 percent stonger to rear brakes. Be careful. Rear brakes locking up in short wheelbase shadow could be a real pants filler.
4.If your little P-brake shoes are messed up (lining fell of, not uncommon) look for a Cirrus, Stratus, or Intrepid, or LHS with rear disks. They use the same shoes, and are more plentiful than now 15 year old and older K-car daughters.

You didn't ask, but fronts are easy too.
Caliper brackets: 'tona, lebaron, or van with 15 inch wheels. If your local yard has a big pile of subframes sitting around like mine,use these tips:
1. Look for the cast lower control arms.
2. The rotor on the big brakes covers up the ball joint when looking from the side. The little rotors, the rotor just covers the boot and the control arm ball joint is exposesd.

Calipers: 91-95 grand caravan 15 in wheel. 60mm piston
R4423716-7 form Mopar
Rotors: OEM best but pricey. Napa United brand or AdvanceAuto Bendix.
No chinese stuff.
Pads are a personal choice, I use EBC green stuff. Some place out on the west coast ship them for free. RJ-USA it think.
Good Luck!
Jon
 

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One thing to add, from personal experience, twice over: the rear brake lines for drum and for disc are different. The disc lines aren't available anywhere, you have to fab your own lines. It isn't that hard, you can rent a flare tool and tube bender from Advance, they also have lengths of raw line and the appropriate fittings as well. They also stock the correct flare wrenches you need to use on the fittings. The real problem is that your old fittings will have been coated in road gunk for 16 years, and will be just about impossible to disconnect without destroying the old lines. Even Kroil won't get them loose. I ended up replacing ALL the lines on my Duster, from the master cylinder on back, even though some of them may have been just fine. It was just EASIER than spending many hours laying on my back under the car trying to loosen the fittings only to have them tear off the line.
 

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I just picked up the vented rear disk setup off a daytona. I think rear disc is the way to go. I get soo much brake dust on the front rims I dont think the drums are trying hard enough. THE ONLY PROBLEM... I wish I could use the setup off a talon because they have the e-brake pulling on the caliper not just a smaller drum setup inside the disk. Any ideas? I am going to do some measuring to see if I can swap the whole axle. hub swap will not work.:mad:
 

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I just replaced the parking brake cables in my '92 Lebaron with the solid rear disc. The parking brake cables are the same as the drum brake cars. If it was a disk brake setup from the 80's which don't have the drum-style parking brake system, the cables are different. But for 1991 up or whenever they went to the mini-drum, all the cables are the same. So, that is an option if you do not like the mini-drum setup--go with the older stuff.
Brand new cables from Carquest were $8.06 each and appear to be good quality. I got a good discount, but still, that's cheap!

Jim, I may have like 99% of the parts you will need to do the conversion. They were off of that blue '92 IROC that was at the U-pull last year. I have everything from the "axle" out. Just FYI, the factory space saver spare tire will not fit the rear disk brake cars no matter what the brake size in the rear is. You need the larger donut spare, which I also have and is in fair condition. Call me if interested. I was going to convert to the rear disk as well, but I may bail on that... the rear drums work well and weigh less. FYI that car had literally 13,000 miles on it.

The brake dust is resulting from the type of brake pads used. When you go to the auto parts stores, they have brake pads ranging from like $15 to $70. I buy the $70 ones so I don't have that problem. Ever notice the front wheels of late 90's, early 00's ford products back when they were still on their original brakes? The wheels look black like a cop car. Although purely just an inconvenience, it was just caused by the brake pad material that was being used. Ford was aware and had a fix, but it wasn't a free fix.
 

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90-up rear disc cars had the mini-drum. The mini drum is better IMO. I ordered the ebrake pads for a 92 Spirit from Advance and they had to order them, but they were available. I used the whole rear setup and bigger MC off a '90 Daytona ES and I used the larger front brakes off a 92 Daytona ES. I needed new ebrake cables (disc/drum are the same), new brake lines for the rear, the rear hoses and all new pads and rotors.
 

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I'll second the mini-drum being better. The parking brake parts and the rear calipers may be the same as what the Chrysler LH cars use... I had a '97 intrepid with rear pads that were falling apart so I grabbed some used pads that used to be on my '92 Lebaron and those pads fit on perfectly. I have yet to try interchanging the calipers and other parking brake hardware, but all those parts looked strikingly similar. I would have tried it if it wasn't so darn cold when I was working on that intrepid. I just wanted to get it done.
 

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I have had the vented rears on both my Rampage and have them on my 89 Daytona, and I would not go with anything less. But if you are wanting to have a e-brake on the caliper, then you are wanting to go with the 86-88 Disc brake setup. It used a caliper (wedge) style e-brake, but only came in a solid rear disc setup. But the mini-drum started in 89 and went on from there. My 89 came stock from the factory with solid rear disc setup with the mini-drum e-brake. Another thing that should be changed in the process is the proportion valve, since all of them are rated at different pressures and flows. So a disc setup needs a disc proportion valve. The only drum setup that had a close pressure is the L-body setups after 84. But that is from my research that I have done over the brake setups.
 

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I used an 87 dodge daytona axle to get rear disc on my 91 shadow. There were only two things that needed modified. I had to buy the master cylinder for the 87 daytona (i went ahead and got the z car master cylinder because it was bigger and cheaper), but where the trailing arms bolt to the frame i had to weld on an inch wide piece of steel and drill and new hole in it to reach the original holes in the frame of the car. The axle out of the 87 daytona also uses the ebrake that actually pulls the caliper piston not the ones with shoes on the inside of the rotor.
 

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I used an 87 dodge daytona axle to get rear disc on my 91 shadow. There were only two things that needed modified. I had to buy the master cylinder for the 87 daytona (i went ahead and got the z car master cylinder because it was bigger and cheaper), but where the trailing arms bolt to the frame i had to weld on an inch wide piece of steel and drill and new hole in it to reach the original holes in the frame of the car. The axle out of the 87 daytona also uses the ebrake that actually pulls the caliper piston not the ones with shoes on the inside of the rotor.
Why did you swap the rear frame?

The backing plates from the newer car will bolt to the older style frame with no problems... The actual axle stubs are the same on all cars including the lbody the only thing that doesn't match is the caravan.

-Rich
 
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