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92 Daytona IROC R/T - Texas

I am located in Abilene, TX. The best way to get in touch with me is my personal e-mail, but PM's are fine too. [email protected].

If really are interested in this car, PLEASE read what I have to say about it. I know this is just short of a novel, but it is must have information if you want the big picture and a good idea of the history of the car since I've owned it (I'm not sure what was done prior to my ownership). This car has been with me for almost 2 years now and I feel I need to cut ties with it because I am separating from the military this year and can't really use it as my daily driver with some cross country trips I intend on making and starting a new civilian life. The uncertainty of a TD's reliability such as this one have spurred me to cut my losses, as I honestly can't afford to keep it as a daily driver any more. Let me be perfectly clear that it is my sincere desire to be as honest about the condition of this car as humanly possible.

I will start off with the negatives because I want any potential buyers to know I'm not trying to gouge or be dishonest in any way. I paid roughly 7,000 for this car and have spent about that much extra in mods and repairs. The car is totally drivable by the way. The problems are: Low compression (about 75 psi) due to either burnt/stuck piston rings and/or cylinder scoring. As you might guess, it is burning oil but it's not too extreme. You might assume it's not running good with such low compression, but the exact opposite is true. In fact, it runs pretty hard. I just don't know what it's capable of with the proper compression.

I have a Spec Stage 3 Clutch (6 Puck design) that slips at higher RPM's at WOT. I also have a few minor electrical problems that I'm working on getting fixed right now such as malfuctioning rear turn signal and melted O2 sensor pigtail. Shouldn't be a problem at the time of sale. The other problem is a rusted wheel well on the passengers side that doesn't extend farther than the crease of the lip. I also have intermittent ABS problems (ABS light comes on). Haven't been in a situation with the need to use the ABS, so it doesn't affect drivability for me. However, the ABS light hasn't come on in a good month now.

There are about 2 or 3 other minor rust spots on the car such as a dime sized bubbling of the paint on the opposite wheelwell (driver's side) and some rust bubbling up at where the corner of the roof meets the door and windshield. The body and interior are in otherwise good shape. Has roughly 125k miles.

Previous owner told me the engine was rebuilt by a pro shop and that "nothing was wrong with it [the car]." I'm not afraid to call him an outright LIAR. How could the piston rings be recently going bad from a newly (15,000 miles ago) rebuilt motor? He also conviently covered up a plethora of other problems with it. All in all, I got the raw end of the deal, but I'm being honest with you guys and refuse to do you the same way. I'm telling you everything I know! All of the following items have been replaced either about a year and a half ago or much more recently than that.

Goodyear F-1 Eagle tires on the stock 16 inch "ninja star" rims. Just got them put on last month.
255 Walbro Fuel Pump
Fuel Tank
Fuel Sending Unit
Everything in and outside the fuel tank, minus any remaining hard fuel lines.
Stainless Steel Braided Lines under hood
Stock hard lines from the tank to the braided lines
Accufab Fuel Pressure Regulator
TIII Fuel Rail from TU
+40% Injectors
10mm Magnecores
New OEM Ignition Coilpack
FWD Stage 1 ECU (15psi)
New Mopar 4-Wire O2 Sensor
Fidanza Lightweight Steel Flywheel
B&M Short Throw Shifter
Strut Tower Bar
Moroso Battery Relocation kit (in the hatch, obviously)
K&N Cone Filter (removed all the stock piping and air box)
Bigger Intercooler than stock
New 2.5 inch IC piping and hoses
TurboXS Type H BOV
2.5 Inch Exhaust (No Cat)
Alternator, Starter, and Battery
Gates Timing Belt and Rebuildable Tensioner
Gates Surpentine Belt and Idler Pulley
Extensive corrosion repair on underbody
All new poly engine and transmission mounts (yes, all of them)
New ABS hydraulic actuator assembly
Wheel Bearings inside and out
Had the A/C fully recharged

This is a sunroof model, 1/60??? I think?? It gets about 20mpg city and 30mpg hwy. It's way less if you stay in the boost! Never personally had it Dyno'd or hit up the strip, but I'd have to say it should be putting down at LEAST 250hp from all the mods, but probably closer to 275. I actually have no idea, it just makes sense with what work I've done thus far. I have done an insane amount of work on this car and countless hours and weekends. I have tried really hard to keep it in the best shape possible. I have always taken good care of it. It may not look like it because apparently the car was not ALWAYS in good hands from previous owners. I did my best to restore what I could afford to do.

I would give the interior a solid 9/10, the exterior a 6/10, and the working components a 7.5/10 due to the isues I currently have with it. Regular oil changes with either Royal Purple or Mobile1 Synthetic. That's everything I can think of off the top of my head. I'm bound to be forgetting a few things, but I'll update this thread accordingly. Consider this a living document and subject to change.

I will be asking 7,000 OBO for this R/T not including any shipping or anything. If you honestly don't feel like your offer is reasonable enough, try me anyway. If you live close enough I will consider finding a way to meet you halfway or something. I also have some spare parts like 2 intercoolers and various odds and ends I'm willing to throw in with the deal if I can get a reasonable amount for the car.

Here's the VIN if you want to CARFAX or whatever the case is:
1B3XW64A1NN206328

If you are really interested, send me a PM (or e-mail preferably) and I will be more than happy to send you all the pictures I have and any additional ones you want me to take. ANY additional questions, PLEASE ask!!! Thanks guys!! Hope to hear from you soon!!:D

The only changes in the pictures since I've taken them is about 6,000 miles, full window tinting, and the Short Throw with a 3 Ball shift knob.
 

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Discussion Starter #2
I'm having problems with the site right now and can't edit my post to replace some of the pictures, I didn't like some of the originals and wanted more shots of the outside of the car, so here they are!!! Brand new pics I just took today!!
 

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7000? As in dollars? That is an awful lot for a car with a bad engine that looks like it was parked in an upper Michigan salt storage facility as a garage for the last 16 years.... I couldn't get $2k out of the similar IROC R/T I sold about 3 years ago.
 

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7000? As in dollars? That is an awful lot for a car with a bad engine that looks like it was parked in an upper Michigan salt storage facility as a garage for the last 16 years.... I couldn't get $2k out of the similar IROC R/T I sold about 3 years ago.
It's unfortunate, I know. I'm open to offers, I'm NOT standing firm on 7,000. I don't remember who all has owned it since 92 but the guy before me had it in Chicago, so big surprise. I don't have the money to get body work done on one quarter panel and a whole repaint and fix the piston rings and probably still not get close to what I want for it. That just doesn't make sense.
 

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What do the floors look like?
As in the underbody or underneath the carpet? I've never pulled the carpet to see but the underbody has zero rust. There used to be quite a bit of corrosion under there but I had it all repaired. I can't get any pictures of the underbody until next week though.
 
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