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If you are getting good spark. One other thing to look at is the Idle Air Control (IAC) Valve on throttle body. If the IAC motor is blocked or sticky from carbon build up and sitting for many years it's probably not functioning properly and the engine won't idle. Best to pull the throttle body and clean with break cleaner.
Ron
 

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Discussion Starter #22
Okay Update Time! I went over fairly well with a visual inspection and nothing stood out as to broken/damaged wires. All the connectors look good. Only issue is around the fuse box that sometimes the traveler will power up and if it doesn't I can wiggle the fuse box/wiring and it will flash or power up? But the fuse box doesn't appear to power anything that would prevent the car to start? Also About a week ago I got an OTC 4000E, Yesterday hooked it up to the car and tried to go over the diagnostic book with it. Did not have the best luck with it. The book says when cranking does the DRB say "Crank Only" "Cam Only" or say Fault this or that but the OTC doesn't say any of that? When the DRB/Book say fault I am guessing that is based on a read out? On the OTC I can see read outs (Voltages and such) but don't see the Cam or Crank sensors as options? I also found I can run some tests, primarily I can activate ignition 1 and 2 and that would cause it to power up the fuel pump and fire the corresponding spark plugs of which all plugs will fire and fuel pressure is about 58PSI. I can also test the injectors but I have already tested them and they get their signals?

I have tried to test wires and nothing is showing there is a break or short? I know in the manual it says the computer cannot tell if the timing is off, how do I verify the timing is on? (I can line up the crank marks and the cams look close but not exactly, I know things are moving slightly after I pull the pins to set tension)I tried to reset the timing and seems like with the crank lined up and the cams pined I have trouble getting the belt tight from the crank gear to the intermediate and then the right cam gear. Even when it seems fairly tight when I get the belt over the left cam gear there seems to be a fair amount of slack between the 2 cam gears.

After I tried timing again still same, tries to start but just stumbles ?
I did through some parts at it since I have some spares (MAP & AIS) after those new parts it did stumble on a littler longer and seemed like it wanted to start more? As far as I can tell I can't get the OTC to manually test the AIS? When cranking the MAP sensor does change a little (reading and voltage).

Where I think I should go from here before going back to elec system testing:
  • Make sure timing is right. (when I recently replaced the timing belt I took off the adjustable cam gears that I never cared for and put the original gears back on - they do have some paint on them could that paint mess with the cam sensor (I'll try to sand it off)? other than that gears are clean and the sensor should be less than .035)
  • Check Compression
  • Looking at NS-13A (page 124) It says "Engine exhaust - must be unrestricted" chance critters blocked up the exhaust? but it has fired up a little and backfired several times?
  • Check the PVC system for blockage
  • Check the fuel again to see if it might be dissolving deposits from the bad fuel contaminating the newer fuel?
  • Book also says check TSB's for possible help? Anyone know?
Oh one last thing I found this wire and connector under the car but don't see where it would have come from on my car and don't see anything in the manuals that show that single wire connector, anyone know? IMG_20200704_075037865.jpg IMG_20200704_075053703.jpg
 
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