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Discussion Starter #1
Hiya,

I recently acquired a 93 daytona with a few minor issues. I believe someone plugged the battery in backwards at some point as both 60a alternator fuses were blown as well as some interior fuses etc.

Currently all fuses on the car are good and pass continuity checks. Everything works EXCEPT for the foglights and the turn signals.

The turn signal switch did have broken solder joints where it connects to the sub board. I reflowed all connections between both boards and still have no turn signals. I also swapped the turn signal switch with anther one of unknown function. The "replacement" feels much more solid and less worn.

Shaking/hitting things makes no difference. The bright function always works as do all of the other switches.

Do some of these connections run through the instrument cluster? I can pull that out and reflow all of the connections if need be.
 

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you are not alone, these switches in the 90-93 Lebaron and Daytona are full of gremlins and worse:
Switch pod alternative

How to fix turn signal issues on your 90+ Daytona, also Lebaron

90 VNT Turn Signals Not Working
Electrical - Part Number Switch? Turn Signal

here are the part #s associated with the dash from the 1993 part book:

4373696 Headlamp, Inst. Lamp, Dome Lamp & Fog Lamp
4373504 Headlamp, Inst. Lamp, Dome Lamp, w/o Fog Lamp (Use Lever 4460178)
4326603 Turn Signal Cancel & Hazard Warning
4565032 Turn Signal & Lane Change (Binicle) (Use Lever 5265737)
4373503 Windshield Wiper & Wash, Frt. & Rear (Binicle)
4373695 Windshield Wiper & Wash, Front Only (Binacle)
4373696 Fog Lamp
5269267 Fog Lamp, EUROPE

NOTE: 4326603 is not located in with the other switches and has the hazard switch in it. It has a small lever on it and is rectangular and black.
 

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I have been dealing with T/S, Headlamp Switch issues on/off for 31 years.
The T/S run through the headlamp switch and since your Fog Lamps are inop your issue is probably related to the headlamp switch or you have two separate issues and you have lost a power feed/ground side control to the fog lamp relay
One of the main areas of failure is where the T/S switch plugs into the headlamp switch.
I also had to solder a jumper wire to the circuit board to correct a faulty ground circuit on the headlamp switch circuit board.
You may have to get out your Ohmmeter and continuity from the connectors to and through the circuit boards.


(6)90 Turn Signal Diagnostics 1  AG-AJ.jpg (6)90 Turn Signal Diagnostics 2 AG-AJ.jpg HEADLAMPS- Switch Pinout 90-95 AG-AJ.jpg HEADLAMPS- Switch 90-95 AG-AJ.jpg ELECTRICAL- Headlmap Switch Circuitry.jpg ELECTRICAL- Headlamp Switch Repaired Ground Circuit.jpg ELECTRICAL- TurnSignal Switch Connector 1.JPG
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thanks both of you :)
I simplified the test as I'm not worried about the cancellation feature right this second. I verified that the green wire (right turn signal) gets connected to ground when the switch is pressed for right and that the brown wire does the same for left. This checks out to the main ground pin that plugs directly into the dash/shroud.

With that said - the switch is operating normally correct?

Using the radio ground strap I tested voltage to the Fog Lights fuse and the Turn Signals fuse. Both provide ~12.45v. I checked continuity from the radio ground strap to the ground pin on the shroud (seen in blurry pic below) and got good continuity. With ignition ON - when testing any of the top two pins on this connector (pins 7/8) I get "0.1v" from one and "0.01v." I should see 12v here with key on correct?
274816
 

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I'm guessing that Chrysler had plenty of warranty work due to the turn signal issues.
There is no obvious effort on their part to make any changes in the design or any superseded part
numbers that I know of that would indicate they changed the switches over the years.
Out here in Arizona the sun beating down on the cluster renders the parts brittle. Taking it apart
without the housing or the switches breaking makes things even worse. The whole setup is a total
fiasco.
 

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Pins 7 and 8 are grounds for control of the T/S relays.
Did you run the T/S Switch continuity check?

PM being sent.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Pins 7 and 8 are grounds for control of the T/S relays.
Did you run the T/S Switch continuity check?

PM being sent.
Thanks! Sorry for the delay. Yesterday was my monday at work and I'm always limited on how much time I can spend on these things :(.

I'm a little confused as to what page 8j-8 is. What switch is this? It looks nothing like what I have and it has way more pins.

I ran the check just now only for the turn signal function ("Remote Turn Signal Switch Test AG) and i get good readings.

7->11 GOOD
7->14 GOOD
8->11 GOOD
8->14 GOOD

I think for the moment I am going to ignore the fog lights mostly because turn signals are the major drivability issue at the moment.
 

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The switch pictured is the headlamp switch.
Did you wiggle the wires/connectors while your ohmmeter was connected to see if you lost continuity?
If you ran the continuity check as outlined in the FSM and had continuity on all 4 terminals your issue is not with the T/S switch.
You need to start looking at the flasher and T/S relays.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
The switch pictured is the headlamp switch.
Did you wiggle the wires/connectors while your ohmmeter was connected to see if you lost continuity?
If you ran the continuity check as outlined in the FSM and had continuity on all 4 terminals your issue is not with the T/S switch.
You need to start looking at the flasher and T/S relays.
Hmm I'll have to take a bether look at it then. What I have doesn't have that many pins. I think the first page says something about it being the wiper switch or something.

I did shake the wires and didn't lose continuity. I also swapped the rear right turn signal relay with the horn relay and didn't get any results. That's all I had time for.

Is there an easier way to access those under dash relays without destroying my hands? Lol
 

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It is common to have issues with the PCB where the T/S switch plugs into the headlamp switch, wiggling the wires and watching continuity will confirm this is not an issue.
Your issue is probably not a relay itself, more than likely you have lost power or ground side control.
I would check power in and out of the flasher assembly before heading to the relays.

Do you have this label on your knee bolster?
RELAY-90 Daytona Relay Bank.JPG
 

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Discussion Starter #11 (Edited)
I'll check, I was referencing that pic from another thread and the fsm as well.

The reason I'm concerned about the relay is that there were a ton of blown fuses and at least one relay when I got the car - pretty sure from the battery being hooked up backwards. The swap was just a quick test before I had to go inside.

When you say the flasher assembly do you mean the "combo flasher?"

274867


I'll try to check that today if time allows. Posting this here for reference.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Ok interesting development.

Turn signals now work. Right had a fast blink from a missing bulb in the tail. Addressed that.

All I did was press the hazard switch and the turn signals started working. This is "good enough" for me for now, but I'd still like to know why the hazard switch doesn't work. I read diagrams all the time at work, but these automotive diagrams are a special kinda of difficult to follow sometimes :(.

Does the hazard switch signal the combo flasher to close in a different way so that both left and right relays are active? I'm assuming that the hazard switch is not closing properly (ie: no continuity from hazard switch to dark blue/pink at combo flasher?)

I'll make sure a fog light relay is present and continue to ignore the fog lights for now. Gonna tidy everything up and make it resemble a car again . . . then hopefully get these emissions issues squashed so we can give it a bad paint job.
 

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I have to look at the wiring and get back to you.
 

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The combo flasher actuates (controls the ground side of the control circuit coil) on the RD/LG wire at all 4 T/S relays simultaneously.
 

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Congrats on your new purchase. These are sharp looking cars. Sorry I'm of no help with your issue but I hope you get it figured out.
 

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Discussion Starter #16 (Edited)
@NAJ Thanks! I'm in a hurry as I have another car coming in Monday that will take up the garage so I probably won't mess with the fog lights or hazard switch. I'll let you know if I end up fixing it. I really appreciate all of your help. You're always a constant on all of the threads I make here.

@Gemini - thanks man. I have a 87 TI that's in much better shape and a few other related cars. This one has a lot of damage to the fenders, interior damage, and lots of paint fade. Hopefully I can repair the fenders to some degree and make it look decent enough with a cheap paint job. I'll also need to repair some of the ground effects etc. Gonna slap a cover on the cracked dash and pretend it doesn't exist. Its meant to just be a daily driver to replace my girlfriends corolla that she is tired of. I have another 93 with a manual trans that I haven't done much with, but I have a good engine to throw in it and cosmetically it isn't terrible. It was a base model so I have to bolt on all the ground effects etc. I just receive some rails for the ground effects recently so hopefully that's in the books this year :).

The 93 that's the subject of this thread is "good enough" to daily drive now, but hopefully when its done it will be a lot prettier and a great car that will last a few years.




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There is a guy who shows up now and then at the local car shows with a red daytona like this one and the car is in excellent shape.

Thanks for the pics I like looking at other peoples rides and watching their progress. Make sure we get some more updates as you keep the car. Needs a radio! :)
 
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