Posts by mccabet
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Adding a boost guage is a good Idea. Do not make any modifications (IE: the wideband) until it is running normally. May cause more headaches during troubleshooting.
The momentary surge on decel ( throttle lift ) reminds me of a bad speed sensor on the automatic cars. The Auto cars apply slight throttle when coming to a stop to prevent stalling. The manual cars don't have that feature. Since you replaced the speed sensor, have you had any speedometer issues? If you can get a scantool (drb3) to see what the mixture is doing at that moment? Also, if you can get an analog ohm meter, test your TPS through full range. Go slow and watch for needle jumps. It should vary smoothly. A digital meter will not show this due to its sample rate.
Good Luck
The momentary surge on decel ( throttle lift ) reminds me of a bad speed sensor on the automatic cars. The Auto cars apply slight throttle when coming to a stop to prevent stalling. The manual cars don't have that feature. Since you replaced the speed sensor, have you had any speedometer issues? If you can get a scantool (drb3) to see what the mixture is doing at that moment? Also, if you can get an analog ohm meter, test your TPS through full range. Go slow and watch for needle jumps. It should vary smoothly. A digital meter will not show this due to its sample rate.
Good Luck
The computer relies on the TPS to provide immediate input of throttle. Kinda like the old fashioned accelerator pump in a carburetor. If not correct, it will cause a lean condition on throttle open. Closing throttle makes the mixture rich momentarily. The MAP fine tunes mixture at a slower rate.
If you was to put gauges on it, I'd recommend fuel pressure, vacuum/boost and O2. That is what I had in my minivan. Gauges will provide real time data. Monitoring via a DRB/scantool works, but with a slight delay.
What rpm does it idle at? with it running, if you disconnect the booster or pvc hose from the intake and leave open, without touching throttle, what rpm does it stabilize at? about 3000? Don't forget to reconnect hoses!
good luck.
If you was to put gauges on it, I'd recommend fuel pressure, vacuum/boost and O2. That is what I had in my minivan. Gauges will provide real time data. Monitoring via a DRB/scantool works, but with a slight delay.
What rpm does it idle at? with it running, if you disconnect the booster or pvc hose from the intake and leave open, without touching throttle, what rpm does it stabilize at? about 3000? Don't forget to reconnect hoses!
good luck.
The temp sensor (two pin) is used in the fuel mixture calculation as well as fan control. If you unplug it, it goes into a limp in mode. The single pin only runs the gauge in the cluster.
I believe all the intercooled engines also had a charge temp sensor to measure air temp in the intake. This could also affect mixture.
I believe all the intercooled engines also had a charge temp sensor to measure air temp in the intake. This could also affect mixture.
Did you check out the cam sensor? It controls spark and injector timing. If intermittent or not set for proper clearance, it could cause weird things.
If they are not claimed, what do you want for the cam gears?Yeah I was gonna post everything but you know how people are with these cars I put a A555 up for any price nobody wants it I'm probably just gonna pull the shafts out of it and scrap the case. Too much hassle to ship stuff especially if it's big/heavy.
Those T3 cam gears if no one wants em and they are 8V size on the outside I'll drill em out to fit on a 8V cam. They are too small inside just tried on a slider Cam in my scrap pile 😆
1 - 6 of 6 Posts
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