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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So recently I’ve been getting a slight grind when shifting into 5th unless I double clutch or coast until the RPMs come down and before that issue started it would go into 5th fine but you’d have to pull pretty hard to get it out. So since I’ve read that that gear and all the mechanisms for it are accessible right from inside the side cover I decided to replace the fork pads and brass ring. So this is what I’d like to know, is there a certain process or anything I need to look out for or do once the cover is removed or is it pretty straight forward with taking the roll pin out of the shift fork and C clip from the plate and removing the gear to replace those parts? Thanks to anyone for any help I can get!
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·

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The a525's didn't use that 190lb bolt, instead it was just another snap ring. Most of the other stuff is close to the same. IIRC, the FSM didn't want you to reuse the snap rings, but they're probably long gone by now. The copper colored snap ring goes on the input shaft and not the intermediate shaft. Also use RTV not anaerobic sealant on the end cover. The 523/568 used an aluminum cover while the older models used a stamped steel cover.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
The a525's didn't use that 190lb bolt, instead it was just another snap ring. Most of the other stuff is close to the same. IIRC, the FSM didn't want you to reuse the snap rings, but they're probably long gone by now. The copper colored snap ring goes on the input shaft and not the intermediate shaft. Also use RTV not anaerobic sealant on the end cover. The 523/568 used an aluminum cover while the older models used a stamped steel cover.
Thanks for the heads up, I saw that the removal process was for the A523/543/568 transmissions but with only working on replacing the 5th gear fork pads and brass synchro ring I believe I won’t have to go any farther in the process then removing the synchro hub and fork which looks to be the same process for the 525 trans too. Unless I’m wrong and the aluminum bearing plate needs to be removed as well?
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Ok, so fork pads and synchro ring were toast so really glad I decided to get both and not just replacement pads lol. But it looks like the oil feed tube got hit by the brass shrapnel, does it look long enough still to function or is there a way of repairing it somehow?
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FYI, originally it would have been 1-7/16" long from the spot welded flat tab. If it were me, I would replace the tube for sure as 5th gear is just splash/gravity fed. Grind away the three or four spot welds and it would be an EZ repair. Boy, you're extremely fortunate that all that debris didn't get into the sump and find a way into the tranny. Bad things happen when it gets in speed gears, or between pinion gear on intermediate shaft and ring gear. Brass or not, that would have had catastrophic results.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Yeah 3/4 of it was broke in 3 more big pieces and being held in place by the hub itself, all the brass chunks were accounted for though I put it back together like a puzzle just to be sure haha. But thanks for the advice on the feed line, figured I could use a large diameter piece of brake line to replace it with but how should I go about reattaching the plate, I don’t have a welder, would RTV keep it there once fully cured? It’s only sheet metal so don’t think it would be to heavy
 
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