adjustable wastegate arm

shorter arm more boost??

Yes the shorter teh arm the more preload on the spring, and therefore more boost. However, I would just run a g-valve and be done with it. It is too hard to get your hand back there to adjust the arm when you could turn a knob. Check out the dodgegarage.com as it will tell you all you need to know.

thanks cordes,I guess I'll do that,the reason I asked is,I once had one hooked up,worked awsome,15psi boost,but after I replaced the motor with a new one,(86 to 85)it dosnt give nearly as much boost,5-9psi boost,I think I hooked it up right,must be the wastegate??

you lower max boost indicates the wastegate arm is moving the puck off its seat earlier than before. could be several reason for this, including the length of the arm being too long.

but a grainger valve installed in the wastegate can vacuum/boost line is the best solution for dialing in the max. boost you want to use.

i'm not sure what "bleeder" you are refering to.....the grainger valve will need a bleed hole on the downstream side of the GV to allow the wastegate arm to return to the "wastegate closed" position, the link above shows this.

I never tried the g-valve yet,I've been using a valve for a fish tank I think,I had my glh parked for years,I drive a 5.0 now,love the omni better,itching to drive it,I want to get it to its former glory days,the problem is,my buddy hooked the bleeder up for me,way back,so I'm a little clude,as you can see,I red the instalation,not good with scamatics,this is how mine is hooked up now,I have it spliced at the wastegate,connected is the valve that I got,open more boost,close less boost,does this sound right,the original line from the wastegate goes to the intake dosnt it? THANKS FOR THE HELP...

Origional line should go from the intake to the WG solenoid to the WG. I run a line off of my custom vac block to the WG with a grainger inbetween.

The method of opporation that you describe for the bleeder valve sounds about right.

The G-valve should work a lot better in that it does not let the WG see the boost signal until the ball is lifted from the seat at the adjustable setting that you dial in. THis allows for a quicker spool, and better performance.

thanks,so it sounds right?,then all I have to do is replace my valve with a g-valve,and maybe put my old wastegate on this motor,and things should be o.k.?what about the check valve,I never had one,when I open my valve,I never had a vacume leak?is this right?one more thing,maybe you can help me with,when I had my 86 engine,I had the chip in it,my distributor on that engine screwed up,I know the 86 chip wont work with an 85 distributor,I seem to have missplaced it,should I get a chip again?or is it o.k.for medium boost?are they even still available?tough around here...thanks alot for the help...

smkshow said:

thanks,so it sounds right?,then all I have to do is replace my valve with a g-valve,and maybe put my old wastegate on this motor,and things should be o.k.?what about the check valve,I never had one,when I open my valve,I never had a vacume leak?is this right?one more thing,maybe you can help me with,when I had my 86 engine,I had the chip in it,my distributor on that engine screwed up,I know the 86 chip wont work with an 85 distributor,I seem to have missplaced it,should I get a chip again?or is it o.k.for medium boost?are they even still available?tough around here...thanks alot for the help...

Click to expand...

Yeah, you will need the 86 dist., but I forget exactly why.

You should not need to run a check valve with a G-valve, but you should if you are sticking with the bleeder valve.

As far as the chip you refer to, I guess you mean a MP logic module. I dont really see the need for one if you are going to keep the boost low initially. As you make upgrades such as an IC etc. you might want to think about a computer from one of the vendors such as turbos unleashed.

You old WG should be fine so long as it is in servicable condition. With stock injectors on a non-ICed setup, you would be looking at a max of 12, mabey 13 PSI, but bump it up slowly. Get a good boost guage, and perhaps an AF meter of some sort, or an EGT. guage, or both. Read your plugs and bump it up a pund at a time. Even at low boost, fatal malfuntions could occur.

Keep us updated.

cheers...I'll play around with it,and see what happends ..

Be CAREFUL. Adding fuel? AF gauge?