Hey i was wondering what are symptoms of a bad ACS? Would it make the idle rough on start up? Run rich? I found one of the wires to be broken on it and wanted to see if this was part of the running rough problem. Thanks!
that may be sending a wrong signal to the computer, is there any codes flashing on your gauges, rough idle could also be a clogged and carboned IAC (idle air controller) i would unbolt it and trying cleaning it and repair the Charge air sensor
The check engine light doesnt work on the dash, i have to fix it. But i had the throttle body off and cleaned it out. It ran better but still very rich, i just did the head gasket and new turbo, and found that the ACS wires were broken and looked to be grounding out on eachother.
When cleaning the throttle body, did you remove and clean the AIS? Repair the wiring to the ACS. That will allow the ECU to recieve the proper feedback and adjust the engine parameters accordingly. You should notice an improvement.
Also any chance on describing the timing belt situation. I have read the forum on how to do the timing belt but what i didnt get was they say to get proper cam alignment measure the bolt tab to bolt tab and divide by 2. What tabs? all i see on the cam gear is a little circle that is supposed to be aligned with the head.
if you are talking about the cam sprocket you need to get the number 1 cam cap halves (where the cap meets the head) lined up in the center of the two holes (3 oclock & 9 oclock) of the sprocket lined up, then you have top dead center
but you need to line up the crank sprocket and the intermediate shaft, just line the 2 circles up, after you line everything up put the belt on and turn the engine clockwise and check to make sure valves dont hit the pistons
The screw on the throttle body you are referring to is the throttle stop screw. What this does as you know is regulates how far closed the throttle can become when at rest. This screw is essential to set your idle up correctly.
What happens when your car is idling, is that AIS (air Idle Speed) motor opens and closes a passage in your throttle body, which increases or decreases idle, depending on load and temperature conditions (first starts duing the day, A/C compressor kicking on, etc)
What happens over time, is your AIS motor and pintle, as well as the throttle body and passages, become carboned up and over time stick, causing rough/erratic idle.
After cleaning out your throttle body, which you have done, one would normally "reset base idle" meaning, with the car running and warmed up to operating temperatures, it can idle within its 8-900 rpm range with the AIS passages closed, and only air passing past the throttle plate itself.
Being a log car, this may or may not be difficult for you to do, as some AIS motors were hardwired to the TPS (throttle position sensor) harness, and have no ther connectors besides the 5 wire connector shared by the TPS. If this is the case, you will need to splice in a connector/plug so the AIS motor can be connected/disconnected while the car is running.
I will post the procedure on how to properly reset base idle after you get back with me on whether it has a connector at the motor or not, and if not, when you splice one in.
In al lhonesty, your rough idle and pig rich condition sounds like a faulty TPS. What they do is move with the moovement of the throttle plate, and tell the computer where the throttle is positioned at (hence Throttle position sensor). If it is sending the computer voltages higher than where they are supposed to be, the controller assumes it is working correctly and instead adjusts fuel flow to the voltages being sent out, not the true position of the throttle plate.This is also often indicated with hard starting and rough idle, as there is too much fuel to burn correctly.
Another potential issue could be the injector circuitry, as one or more injectors could be grounded out and running constantly, your CEL (check engine light) should tell you if there are any faults when you get the bulb replaced, and retrieve those codes.
Also, be aware that running your car with an "overfueling" issue can cause your oil to become soaked and thinned with gasoline, washing your bearings out and removing any oil film on them, necessary for lubrication. It also washes the varish off the cylinder walls and causes loss of compression. So get on that fuel issue, it can ruin the motor if left long enough.
Awesome thanks for the info!!! I have had the car for a month and not sure how the previous owner ran the car. I belive he had it sitting from the looks of it. But befor i cleaned the throttle body i started it up and fixed all the vaccume leaks, even with all the lines fixed the cat was bright red just from idling for about 5min then i shut it off and never started it again untill i cleaned the throttle body. It still ran rich after the cleaning tho, but ran alot smoother. I have now tossed a little bit bigger turbo and did the head gasket along with the timing belt (still in proccess). I am going to intercool this as well even with the one piece intake, which is a pain in the ass lol. Along with the cluster, i should have everything done by the weekend ill post up and let you guys know further info. Thanks for the help!! greatly appreciated!!!
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