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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
ok so my "power limited" light is on and the codes i got were for the speed sensor(now fixed) and air charge temp sensor, i replaced the sensor and its still on, the connector to the sensor was cut at some point befor i got the car and they sodered the wire directly to the ACTS so i had to do the same because the parts store doesnt have the connector, so my question is how to fix can i wire the wres together in an open loop? just leave it disconected?
 

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You can make a connector from a newer 2 terminal sensor work.
The lock tab on mine broke and it kept losing the connection and setting the code.
I found a pigtail from a newer Chrysler ACT/CTS lying around our shop and with very slight modification it fit and snapped right in.
Go to your local parts house and check the pigtails in the "Help" section or go to a JY, the coolant temp and air charge are the same connector for most older Chrysler products, even if you find a newer vehicle you can make it work very easily, just a little filing, the connector is shaped slightly different.
Just cut the wiring leaving enough to work with and splice/solder to your harness.
Wire color and polarity do not matter, the sensors work either way you hook it up, it is only a 5 volt reference and a signal return line.
This may be what you are looking for.

https://www.dormanproducts.com/cgi-...=&vfrom=&prev=&vnext=&category_list=1472:44:0
 

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Discussion Starter #5
cool thanks, also the other code im getting is computer reset in last 50-100 starts? will that go off after i fix the connection on the ACTS, and does it really run on less power with the acts screwed up?
 

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The code for the starts will go away after a certain amount of starts, definitely more than 10. If your power loss light is on, it is caused by the act. I left mine unplugged by accident and it set the code. If the light is on, the engine will run in limp mode and will run severely limited as it doesn't want to allow any damage to occur to the engine. I think you can't rev over 4k or less. I think you are also limited to 5 lbs of boost. What ever it is fix the act and your light will go away
 

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Discussion Starter #7
but it does rev past 4g hell it will go well past 6g and 6.5lbs boost is what i get, hell it ran 14.1 last week so is there a problem with the comp, or something else? thats why i was confused ciz it doesnt run in limp mode.
 

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You got me why it will not limit itself. The fault code description on minimopar resources says it will enter limp in mode and assume a temperature greater than 70. Maybe it will just assume all air is above 70 but not limit the car. The 84 turbo cars seem to have a different act code than the 85 and up but the description reads the same. I wonder if you fix it and then it reads 100 plus degree air, will it slow down:bash:. I would fix it just to get rid of the light.
 

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You can fix it how ever you want, its your car. Personally if you aren't going to fix it the right way, the way it was built, then i wouldn't bother doing anything since it sounds like your car performs to your liking. Its not like you have to remove a bunch of stuff to fix it right. get the plug, solder two wires, plug it in, done. The sensor is there for a reason so twisting the wires together may solve the light problem but it is not really a fix. Good luck:thumb:
 

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You may not notice much of a difference because the LM and PM on an 84 are not very complex, this was the beginning of controller evolution.
As long as the power loss lamp is on the controller is running on a fixed program regardless of how primitive it may be.
ACT is # 3 on the fuel control list as far as the controller is concerned.
The Map Sensor is the dominant fuel control sensor followed by the Coolant Temp Sensor and then the ACT and the O2 Sensor brings all of this into a tighter range for fuel economy and emissions.
Bypassing the ACT sensor will not turn the light out, the code is set when voltage on the circuit is high or low.(5 volts = open/0 volts = shorted)
If you want to bypass the ACT sensor and have the light go out you will need to put a resistor(which is basically what the ACT sensor is) in the circuit so that voltage is somewhere in a proper range and if you are going to do that it is just as easy to splice/solder in a new pigtail.
I feel my job here is to educate so here is some info that may help you make a more educated decision on what you would like to do.

















 

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dude. you were talking about the power loss light, and it being because of the ACT. what is that??? mines deffinitley in limp mode. i need to fix this
 

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i also still have a 84 z that is messed up like this .wont rev past i think it was 2 or 3000 rpm ,boggsand has the power limited light on. i beleive the light was for the act also .i changed the map ,air charge ,fuel filter,injectors ,reset timiming,then reset it agian ,new hole distributor,coil tps ,and ais .i even swaped in a new logic to run with the pcm,then swapped in a new pcm,then tried it with new pcm and old logic and nothing .ive pulled my hair out with it and cant figure it out. so it sits in the garage if anyone has any ideas that i havent mentioned feel free to fill my brain as its on E from thinking about it .

thanks guys
scott
 

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I finally picked up an ethos with the obd1 connectir set for work, does work on my 86 glh but expensive lol

On a 50 degree night i started my carand had that hooked up... why would my charge temp be 105?
I think thats default for an open because i unplugged it and it never changed??
 

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