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Hello All. It's been a while since I've been here. I had to store the 87 Shelby Charger about a year. (Its a red Dodge one) I went to get it back on the road and it failed smog due to the gas cap. I bought a new one and all of a sudden the car ran like crap. It's throwing all sorts of codes. EGR, O2, MAP...

To the matter at hand. While fixing a vacuum leak, I bumped the pig tail wiring harness plug for the air temp sensor. Ignition was off. Both wires, brittle and cracked already, broke off. When I unplugged the remainder, it disintegrated. I could not tell which wire went to which side of the connector/sensor.

I soldered the connectors to new leads but both wires are black with a purple tracer. I plugged them in and now I get an air temp sensor code too. I switched the sides and the code still exists.

The two identical wires disappear into the harness. I'd rather not un-do the entire thing to follow these.

I have an new plug on order.

If both leads to the plug are black with a purple tracer, does it matter which side they go to?

If sides matter, how do I know which goes where?

Thanks. :shrug:
 

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Does not matter, one is a 5 volt reference and the other is the signal return, the sensor is only a thermistor and will read the same regardless of which direction flow is coming from.
BUT...
With the connector terminals facing you and the locking tab facing up the 5 volt reference(BK/RD) is on the left and the signal return(BK/LB)is on the right.
 

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90 Daytona Shelby, 89 Spirit ES, 96 Jeep XJ
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Also, if your wires were so brittle that they snapped off from "bumping" them, you may have breaks and/or shorts elsewhere. You should check continuity of the wires to the computer and check voltage with a multimeter.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Yes they snapped as I moved my hand across them from behind the valve cover. They already had bare spots showing where the insulation had deteriorated in the past. I could see frayed strands poking out. Electrical tape just got hot and came off so I just left them so they wouldn't touch each other. That might also explain why the wires both seem to have purple tracers. I think they're burnt. I got the car that way and it ran fine until something else happened and led to this.

I bought the car after it sat 6 years. Fixed a few things and it ran great and passed CA smog. I cummuted in it for over a year, 100mi round trip. I had to let it sit a year then tried to smog it for registration. It passed except the gas cap pressure test. Got a new one and then it failed on emissions. It started running like crap on the way to the smog test station. EGR valve. It was looking into that before I figured it out that I busted the air temp sensor wires. One first. Then when I grabbed ahold of the thing to see about reconnecting the busted wire, the other came off. At that point, I pulled the plug and it came apart in 3 pieces, the shell and two rubber insulators.

Thanks for the info.

Next: I'll post a new thread. EGR Valve. Where can I locate the correct valve for a SC? I'm having difficulty finding the correct one...
 

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I will be attempting to add an air charge sensor to the turbo mini , So just for reference I think it's pins 21 and 4 but ( which is which ) 5 volts/gnd. :shrug:
 

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black with blue tracer is ground

the sensors use a common ground - you should find a multy wire splice at about the center of the firewall in the wireing bundle that runs across the top - so you only need the one pin location in the computer

power would be black with red or pink tracer but if your harness isn't set up for the air temp sensor that pin location on the computer should be an empty cavity

however you will have the pin with the black/blue wire - but you don't need to run the black/blue wire all the way to the computer , just to the wire leading to the computer from the splice I mentioned above
 

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Just what I was looking for Perfect , Thank you berry much :thumb: . Now , anyone have the appropriate Pin EXTRACTION TOOL ?
 

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anyone have the appropriate Pin EXTRACTION TOOL ?
I'm doing this now with the 60-pin, and this is how I'm doing it.

1. Add a pin link <--click link.
2. Small pocket screw driver(1/16" or 3/32") to remove the red lock from the 60-pin -- one side of the red lock has a depressible release.
3. Dental pick(Harbor Freight for $3.00 or EBay) or lock pick(EBay) to release the individual pin from the 60-pin--Be extra careful as this tiny pin-lock will break easily ruining the 60-pin connector requiring you to get and repin the entire 60-pin connector.
4. Correct size drill(new & sharp) to drill the hole in back of the 60-P + 1/4" diameter copper tubing cut just long enough to expose 1/8" - 3/16" inch of drill tip when slipped over the drill bit--This stops the drill from drilling all the way through the connector by accident--DO NOT SKIP THIS STEP or you will be redoing the entire 60-P.--There will be a small plastic spike left in the hole to be pushed out by the new pin--be sure to see it and get it out-use your practice 60-P. See#5 below.
5. Goto the JY and get a 60-P for donor pins and practice disassembling/reassembling--This was very important practice --See #3.
6. Go slow, lots of light, some reading glasses really help seeing the details up very close to your face -- try out several pairs of different magnification-- they are almost like jewelers loops but easier to use.

Tell us how it goes
Good Luck!
 

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Works perfectly :thumb:, Incidentally had a few Dental tools to assist . Sometimes I wonder where I came up with all this crap . ny way , Thanks for all your help was a lot easier than lying upside down in a Phantom cockpit fixing wire bundles and cannon plugs . So onward with the mileage test mule .
 
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