Alternator adjusting bracket (Lancer)
Need the alternator adjusting bracket from a 80's Dodge Lancer. It is a very simple piece of hardware and works perfectly when installing the 90amp Mitsubishi alternator on an L-body.
Its not much more than a piece of angle iron with a pinch bolt and a few holes.
Please PM or email me directly. steven.seale @gmail.com
Shipping to 30062
Payment via PayPal or money order or credit card.
Its not much more than a piece of angle iron with a pinch bolt and a few holes.
Please PM or email me directly. steven.seale @gmail.com
Shipping to 30062
Payment via PayPal or money order or credit card.
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i am pretty sure i have one from my 87 Lebaron T1
I did not know about Rich's site but I did go take a look. What they have is not what I am looking for. Rich's alternator product would work for me if I was replacing the vibration dampened strap on a late model (89+) but I am switching to a different bracket entirely to move the belt tensioning bolt up where you can actually see it on an L-body, and to mount the 90/100amp alternator from NipponDenso on my early L-body, a Charger GLHS. With this setup I get easy access to the adjuster, a lot more amps, a smaller lighter more reliable alternator...and now Ican also use a reduction pulley. Before with the original OEM alternator, at idle, it couldnt keep up with any accessory turned on.
i will get you a pic tonight and if its correct, how about $20 shipped
if 92tona doesnt have the right one i have a few i saved.
I've been running a Nip alternator with CB motor (non common block water pump) and underdrive pulley on my GLHS for 10 years. Be carefull when switching this. Back when I first did it I thought all was good for a few months, then my new battery started to drain dead more often. Turned out my fuseable link was the culprit and i attribute that directly to the nip upgrade. In other words, keep a close eye out for charging problems after this. Since the nip is spinning faster with a under drive pulley, I'm on my 3rd nip alternator, but these are cheap j-yard pieces too.
Hmmmm...maybe I am mistaken here but I THINK that actually your nip alternator is spinning slower with the under drive pulley....that is the point of the underdrive and why you get less charge at idle. Somebody else might set me straight on this but I don't think so.
And yup, even a nippo with 100K+ miles on it is going to need the wear items. At $19 each (Pull-a-part Atlanta price) and about an hour of labor, its practically a mute point...I just look for nippos that look real fresh/rebuilt. They are quite common apparently.
When I did the upgrade on my daily driver about a year ago, I ALSO took the heavier duty 90amp charge harness from a P-body (Shadow) (also with the 90 amp Nippo)and substituted it for the smaller diameter less current capable L-body harness. So my charge harness should be good togo for the extra current availability. Have not added any accessories yet so the factory fuse block nor are the fuseable links getting any additional current.
A fusable link is a slow-blow fuse, it is tooooo much current passing that causes them to blow. Current, as in dead short to negative ground or trying to pull (added accessories) too much current through a tiny wire. Just hook your 5,000 Watt power amp to your OEM radio fuse and watch what happens......
....that is why you always see those power amps on a dedicated circuit, switched circuit. There is no wiring inthe car that can sustain it for very long without cooking the cars wiring harness eventually.
BUT...you made a good point. Just adding the alternator without ALSO upgrading the charge harness and following good/best practices when adding accessories might save you a battery and some hastle(s).
And yup, even a nippo with 100K+ miles on it is going to need the wear items. At $19 each (Pull-a-part Atlanta price) and about an hour of labor, its practically a mute point...I just look for nippos that look real fresh/rebuilt. They are quite common apparently.
When I did the upgrade on my daily driver about a year ago, I ALSO took the heavier duty 90amp charge harness from a P-body (Shadow) (also with the 90 amp Nippo)and substituted it for the smaller diameter less current capable L-body harness. So my charge harness should be good togo for the extra current availability. Have not added any accessories yet so the factory fuse block nor are the fuseable links getting any additional current.
A fusable link is a slow-blow fuse, it is tooooo much current passing that causes them to blow. Current, as in dead short to negative ground or trying to pull (added accessories) too much current through a tiny wire. Just hook your 5,000 Watt power amp to your OEM radio fuse and watch what happens......
....that is why you always see those power amps on a dedicated circuit, switched circuit. There is no wiring inthe car that can sustain it for very long without cooking the cars wiring harness eventually.
BUT...you made a good point. Just adding the alternator without ALSO upgrading the charge harness and following good/best practices when adding accessories might save you a battery and some hastle(s).
Responded to your email. I think we have a winner! thanks.
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