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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
/135 Ci Single Point TBI (Bosch Throttle Body) Non-Turbo application (My Head Casting is #4323287) The MP Cam # is P4529321 in decent shape to buy or borrow for testing in my fresh Stock Elim. combo, and it is a .430/.430 Lift HYD Lifter Cam, Duration 268 and believe the overlap is 244 (but the label is torn there, can only see something 44, Centerline 112. They are of course listed...but a discontinued item of course (so far I only see 1 place in Italy online that swears they have 1 new in stock as of 2017, they are checking stock now for me they say), I see the same one listed under Mitsubishi 2.2L on Summit new with the same exact specs, but a different part number.

I saw a 2017 post on here in the "Help me find info on cam specs for a P4529321 I picked up", last night & started reading the thread, wanted to contact the poster to see if he still had it, and of course somehow lost the thread, and no search I have done has found it again, so thought I would ask if anyone has 1 new/ used & sitting not being used....Am not married to that grind exactly as the max lift on my combo is .445/.445 measured from the retainer with an adjustable solid lifter in place of the hyd lifter at zero lash (which I have).

I know the actual part number, and that they do perform, as a friend years ago (in the same class I was in GF/SA), gave me a box with the cam specs on it, sadly though I thought I was running that cam later, when what he gave me actually was not the cam that came in that box...but, his old stock cam, he replaced it with.

So, if you know where I can find one, or you have a custom ground one between Hyd .430/.430 and .445/.445 let's talk please.

For some reason I cannot yet figure out how to post in the looking to buy section here. It just will not let me for some reason.

Thank you in advance.
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
This is no fun, completely backwards...Usually we have a multitude of cams with zero spec cards or info. I have the Data, the specs, and no cam, Go figure! I know they are out there, they sold a bunch of em, please help me find one...Thanx!
 

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you need to get your post count up to use the buy n sell section
sorry
was the fix for the scammer issues we were having
and
do not under any circumstances answer anything that says "my buddy has it" "here's his email info"
and they have almost no post count
unless you like giving money away..

real members around here have post counts similar to mine
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I realize that and fully appreciate it, working hard on the post count now, have been active since 2012 (had longtime login issues that were recently resolved by a finally successful password change, when it was really the first c missing from my username causing the issues- and I could not remember since I joined the community in 2012 and have been on the site daily to weekly ever since, but read here a lot and yet participate only if I think my input will help, but have learned a ton of valuable info from the community. I am an owner of a Daytona (since 1984), do contribute to the community and it's sponsors, etc.

My project on current updating to The 84 Daytona re-started Jan. 10th, 2022, my racing career will resume as soon as my short block is finished, after a really too long layoff (so I had no need to buy/sell parts for the nearly classic 1980's Dodge that has been collecting dust in my garage the last 25 yrs, while we put 3 boys through college, and life in general...until now, but now I have both parts to sell that I removed during the allowed car diet, and have need to buy parts for it, that are only found fairly easily through the holders located in this particular wonderful Forum/Community of Turbo Dodge Owners. (Nearly everywhere else it is like unobtainium as you know for our sweet rides!) the community hoards the stuff and we all know it....lol. (And we all think it is for good reason, it is WHY WE DO!) i have a current need for specific parts and pcs, and really cannot afford much more (has been a lot since January 2022 alone, without parting with a few prized pcs I have in my collection at this point, and where better to spend the money, or part with the pcs, than in the TURBO DODGE, where I know the parts and pcs are located and I can find them, and there are others right now that just may need things that have been sitting many years in my freshly cleaned garage, that I noticed I still have, and am now wondering in my later, close to retirement years, why I am still keeping...When others may need or want, or could be enjoying.

My head actually just got back (Last Month), from Turbo Dodge Parts.com in GA-(ask him please if I need another reference)...I promptly paid my bill with a smile on my face since he has the expertise/parts/knowledge, and cannot wait to run it soon (so it was not prepped like my short block is being done now by my local machinist in AZ-though I think I am being punished a tiny bit for doing so by said local machinist).

I have no buddies with parts, I also like you- hate scammers too. I am however genuine, I buy and sell at auction a lot (cglrcng on e-bay as a reference...longtime 100% feedback both buying/selling on a very longtime never changing profile/account), not attempting to buy or sell unless it can be done absolutely safely and honestly on both ends.

How do you get posting counts up, if you discourage people from posting? I am not attempting or looking to get banned Dr., just frustrated, I both need, and want to be a full on participant, have been around a while as a member of the community (since 2012-10 yrs should count for something), and have not earned a reputation at any time, here or elsewhere as a scammer in any way.
 

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ok I see you're up to 15 posts as I type this

I don't know off hand what the post count "clock"is set at for the buy & sell section ..but 5 or 6 more posts might get you there if you still can't start a thread
soo
I'll suggest, if you still can't start a thread as yet,come back to this thread and make 5 or 6 posts of gobble-de gouk .. just hit some random keys and make "a post" .give it a min or so and repeat..
Ill get the alert someone has posted in this thread again and I'll come back to clean up the mess..
let me know..
if you find you can get into the buy & sell area afterwards I'll move your two threads to the correct section and we should be good to go
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
TY Dr., actually just got all my pics together and in order pretty much to start a nice long thread in the "Show Your Projects" section, and was going to recap the January 1, 2022 to Present on the current Street Car/NHRA Stocker to Full Blown Racecar-FINALLY project...And a long story much shorter on the History behind the project started in 1993, and a paragraph beyond back to the day in early 1984 when I drove my Mother to Cerritos Dodge in Cerritos, CA (SoCal) to buy it as her daily driver, (Was a Silver on Silver/Charcoal car when she worked for the AAA of Southern California at Corp HQ.

Ok, you may ask why that is so important...She worked her entire career working life for that Auto Insurance Corporation, she buys this car brand new in early 1984, and the CA DMV issues her in the normal series ''the next in line", not a pay more requested personalized one mind you, Lic. Plate # WNLWE502 (see, in CA the Vehicle code violation for drunken driving or Driving Under The Influence actually, to be more precise is called ...Getting a 502! So, not only was she stopped often to ask if she had been drinking (though she never was charged), she was always chided at work by her Colleagues and Management. When 'll We 502? Many officers in Blue thought it was a personalized plate...like tempting fate or something. She was stopped like 13 times in the first year (always asked if she had been drinking, no matter the time of day or night, and did not have a clue why. (I finally explained it to her).

Yup, that thread alone will run up the post count, a few purists may take offense, some may be interested, some may even dig through parts for me if I ask nicely maybe, some may be happy for me, some jealous, most will think I am crazy as crap for putting any money into that slow sled fishbowl of a race car, some may buy something from my "Current Class Legal Car Diet Pile" if they need something that I may just have that is original, and it works (everything in my diet pile does...well did when I recently took it out), and sure enough like I said, some purists may get upset at the items I had to take out, but the NHRA Stock Eliminator rules are very specific on what may be removed, and ironclad on what MUST STAY OEM STOCK.

No exceptions either if you try to cheat, by violating on the must haves...even in the slightest bit. (The specific items you may change, delete or modify, are very limited, and specified with words like "is allowed" and "IS PROHIBITED," or "is acceptable" and "not prohibited"). Read, read, and read it again......and for the lord's sake do me a favor, if you personally ever read the NHRA Rule Book, and you run across the words/phrases "Non-OEM Shifter" or "Aftermarket Shifter" anywhere in either "General Regulations" or in "Section 11-Stock Eliminator", please tell me immediately exactly where, and I mean specifically, Section, Page, Item, Paragraph, Line, etc....As, I have looked, it flat is not there (though I agree it may be somewhat implied, some could read into it a little, and some even do install them....If you own and race a Daytona/Laser (which of course in an automatic car has a junk-errrr, ok..poorly operating, cabled shifter installed in a console), and you are trying to run as consistently as possible (It is really a bracket race mainly on or under index, and a heads up race when vehicles of the same class are run together), then you know why already, but I so need to find those words bad, so I can modify/install something I can slap a bit harder and be a wee bit less careful with, and be more accurate and much faster with!

Pssst, if you have a mid 80's Daytona or Laser (there are other vehicles I know that some of my diet pile will also fit, but I can guarantee all items worked as of January 10th, 2022 during my last car fire up (a 3 min. start and run on, hey I could not actually believe it either- 13 year old Sunoco purple 110 Race Gas , pay attention, and are in need of anything I talk about here in the next few paragraphs

The entire Interior (no gutting allowed)-Heat and A/C and under dash ducting may be completely removed, the sun visors may be removed (Those still remain so far)-But the climate or A/C-Heat controls and the Vent openings must stay firmly mounted in the dash in the original location, they-the controls are still there, and they even light up (The entire combo HVAC/Blower Box/Blend doors and actuators, all lower and some upper venting recently were removed, along with most of the attached hoses, wiring and related hardware), so you cannot really tell by even sitting in it, except there is quite a bit more leg room up front, and, among a few minor other things that may be removed, added, and changed, but not many.

Exterior of the vehicle customizations is firmly limited to (Paint, Tires, Wheels). No Windshield Wiper related items are necessary and may be removed (it all was), Drivers side mirror must remain, passenger side mirror is not required (Both still remain on the car as of yet).

The OEM Gas Tank must be in the OEM MFG installed place, unless you install the allowed fuel cell, at which point you are REQUIRED TO REMOVE THE OEM TANK (you cannot have your cake and eat it too), so I chose to do the latter-add a 5 gal. fuel cell w/bulkhead separating it from the drivers compartment-and everything that entails, remove a large tank that I used to have to race with at least twice as much (very expensive now) race gas in, and help with the diet and weight bias (so that very clean, not rusty inside, Gas Tank, tank filler neck, straps, High Volume MPI/Turbo Pump, an accurate gas gauge in-tank sending unit, and hanger straps are all in my "Car Diet Pile".

What else, The A/C compressor unit and under hood hardware (minus the combo Alternator/Compressor mount, as in that mount sits - mind you up high, but underhood, and in front of the R.H. front spindle, tire and wheel-counterbalancing the driver weight... resides my custom combo Ballast Box / Engine Torque Strap), was removed long ago, still in a boxes on my shelf (though not in the recent diet pile, along with some other things, exhaust manifold related EGR stuff, a set of equal length half shafts someone gave me, a couple of tail lights that are slightly less than cosmetically perfect but fully street legal, a lot of unnecessary under hood plastic shields a number of 84' TBI only ECU's, an 84' TBI only Power Module, The Cat Converter.

Also in the Diet Pile is everything A/C or heater related (hoses, pipes, hardware), the entire exhaust system piping and hangers/rubber isolators, from driver position to rear bumper is out in the Diet Pile (but was cut into 3 pcs), could be easily welded back together.

To be continued elsewhere in the "My Project" threads if interested on the progress w/ lotsa pics added... Thanx though Doc. I was finally able to login and start posting on threads again a few days ago, and then I asked a kind moderator (the 1 that sent me the fine welcome message way back in 2012, that was still in my convo box), a couple of days ago if they would / could kindly get my permissions fixed for me to post in the buy/sell area...and they did get it fixed. Yesterday was my first day actually with it all squared around.

There is no doubt I will contribute in the way of posts, I promise (some will get tired of me fast)---I was locked out and forced to lurk and just learn too long. So, lots to say, debatable s to whether any of it is to be found interesting though...

I guess we shall see. (I know...I should have broken that up into 12 postings, I just couldn't. I am good, really I am, and Thank You for all the assistance brother.

MOPAR OR NO CAR!
 

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/135 Ci Single Point TBI (Bosch Throttle Body) Non-Turbo application (My Head Casting is #4323287) The MP Cam # is P4529321 in decent shape to buy or borrow for testing in my fresh Stock Elim. combo, and it is a .430/.430 Lift HYD Lifter Cam, Duration 268 and believe the overlap is 244 (but the label is torn there, can only see something 44, Centerline 112. They are of course listed...but a discontinued item of course (so far I only see 1 place in Italy online that swears they have 1 new in stock as of 2017, they are checking stock now for me they say), I see the same one listed under Mitsubishi 2.2L on Summit new with the same exact specs, but a different part number.

I saw a 2017 post on here in the "Help me find info on cam specs for a P4529321 I picked up", last night & started reading the thread, wanted to contact the poster to see if he still had it, and of course somehow lost the thread, and no search I have done has found it again, so thought I would ask if anyone has 1 new/ used & sitting not being used....Am not married to that grind exactly as the max lift on my combo is .445/.445 measured from the retainer with an adjustable solid lifter in place of the hyd lifter at zero lash (which I have).

I know the actual part number, and that they do perform, as a friend years ago (in the same class I was in GF/SA), gave me a box with the cam specs on it, sadly though I thought I was running that cam later, when what he gave me actually was not the cam that came in that box...but, his old stock cam, he replaced it with.

So, if you know where I can find one, or you have a custom ground one between Hyd .430/.430 and .445/.445 let's talk please.

For some reason I cannot yet figure out how to post in the looking to buy section here. It just will not let me for some reason.

Thank you in advance.
I have a reed cam stock eliminator cam with .430 lift set the mph record and both ends of the record in perfect shape
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Any chance you are willing to part with (via a purchase), or even a temporary loan, maybe with rental fees, of that wonderful lobed pc of record setting history, for a new try at another attempt. I think I recently read the article about that Reed cam... it is a HYD slider cam correct?

I have to admit, the post above, just the way it sits initially had me questioning who has the cam and who to ask the question of (rampagefs or Glhs60). Though I thank both.

The cam I have in it now, and my spare, are very close in lift (though lower than your history making reed .430/.430), and have different spec numbers, performed well, but that was before any recent head machine work was performed or the diet, and I expect will be much different (improved or not we will see after the new Ross Forged Pistons are installed and everything is balanced for the first time, and the car is currently a lot lighter than when it ran in GF/SA at 2,763lbs.

Car now fits in DF/S...will run it initially at very top of EF/S (at same 25.0lbs/HP, same index, same record min. that nobody owns currently).-But, at 2,475, and 11 fewer claimed HP. Where it actually belonged in the first place. (FF/ and GF classes no longer even exist) They just compacted the classes up a small amount higher.

Initially my combination was mis-classified in 94', at 110HP (so was carrying 11 x 25.0lbs too much weight), still best pass was just 7 thou off record at 16.907 in perfect air and conditions at Houston in 95', and I received a review and decision in Feb. 96 in my favor at 99HP.

So, after the 1st ever rebuild and improvements of late during this current comeback attempt, we are expecting some good things, and that cam would certainly be an additional "good thing" to be able to add at the top of the list/engine.
 

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Let me dig it up I ran it 4 degrees advanced ,i will sell it cheap, have no use for it anymore. Who did your head ? The reed cam was a full two tenths quicker than the Lunati I started with . Chris Harty here in Michigan, reworked the arrow racing head at the same time so i cant say for sure which one made the most difference. ,
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Let me dig it up I ran it 4 degrees advanced ,i will sell it cheap, have no use for it anymore. Who did your head ? The reed cam was a full two tenths quicker than the Lunati I started with . Chris Harty here in Michigan, reworked the arrow racing head at the same time so i cant say for sure which one made the most difference. ,
Would love to have it and carry on attempting to create a bit more history with it, I have paypal (or other payment methods), and the zip is 86401 (Northwestern, AZ), to figure shipping costs. Do not break records digging it out (but once you do please mark it sold), anytime soon would be great, as it will still be weeks waiting for delivery of the new Ross rotators since the custom forgings were just ordered. You say when, what, and how you prefer payment, and I will get it to you. Will PM my email addy and phone to you soon. TYVM. (2 tenths would put me 2 tenths closer to magic!)

Mr. Seale at TurboDodgeParts(dot)com did the head prep in Peach Tree, GA, hot tanking, pressure testing, cleaned up the surface just a tiny amount, machining, & a very nice valve job, and some new parts, New Springs, slider rockers, PT lifters & shims, better valve stem seals, and new retainers, just recently shipped it to him in Feb. and received it back late Mar., and I am stuck with the head I have # (4323287),for the time being or 1 other part # (4105445) yet to find a decent one of those in good shape untouched/uncut & reasonably priced, that I can use with the 84 Daytona TBI combo.

The valves, seats and stems were fine, and now that rules were changed from NHRA specd. valve job, to "any valve job" with a minimal seat margins, as long as stem and head diameter remain the same at minimums, it's first valve job really opened it up on both intake and exhaust a lot (if you can call those a lot...ok, compared to the "factree job"). So, theoretically it should breathe a little better as far as getting more air in/out faster. I was/am very happy with his work and pricing. Included a new gasket, upper set, seals, exhaust studs, copper nuts and New Head Bolts. Removed the By-pass nipple too, as I deleted all Heater and manifold hoses/equipt.

Ahhh, how are you Chris, watched your progress earlier in life. The .430/.430 listed on Summit is a Lunati grind, and Doug's place in CA says that later they can custom grind one as high as my max allowed .445/.445 to test also from the same blanks they grind the .430/.430 cams from, but I want to really to test the .430 first and actually measure it at the retainers with these PT lifters/shims first to see what the inspected true lift is before I order any custom ground new. I really appreciate you are willing to part with it, and reasonably cheap is sure a bonus. (The project is finally winding down, but not as fast as my bank account is, that was set aside for it!) Just chasing new bolts for a 38 yr. old car is really fun today. Nobody stocks a set of intake bolts for my intake. Did I get them, Yes, same place, No, 4 short ones here, 4 long ones over there....And were they reasonable, no freaking way!

Anything higher than what I have now has to add something. Currently the lift on it is .421.421 (set 2 degrees retarded as it ran best there, as I played around between 4 advanced and 2 retarded a degree at a time back in 95'), but have not been able to bench check it fully with the adjustable solid lifter-zero lash /at the retainer, since it arrived back here...We did cc it after it returned, at 50cc to 50.2 avg. (Minimum is 48.4 cc's, leaving it there currently in case it needs a resurface in the future at all)...Checking is better done after it is installed back on the short block since though, as I do not yet have a pr. of checking springs, and the new springs (outer's w/dampers), are just too tight to roll it over very easily.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Let me dig it up I ran it 4 degrees advanced ,i will sell it cheap, have no use for it anymore. Who did your head ? The reed cam was a full two tenths quicker than the Lunati I started with . Chris Harty here in Michigan, reworked the arrow racing head at the same time so i cant say for sure which one made the most difference. ,
Oh, and I love Rampages, the Hooker header in my 84 Daytona was made for a Rampage. They are long tubed and balanced due to length from ports to collector, and they actually run better (as far as consistency), both top and bottom end, if you run them with an extension attached (paint the extension white), run it a while with it not too lean/rich, then cut the extension off where the center of the painted burn mark is.
 

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Found the reed cam, also found a new lunati I forgot I had, they sent it to me and I never used it . The lunati was there last update and was supposed to be the new hot setup. Both cams are .445 lift I'm not sure why i thought they were.430.. I have a new adjustable cam sprocket and a upper lash adjuster you have to have that when you go through tech or the reading on the cam come up out of spec . you will have to have a machine shop make the lower part. I can send pictures if you need them. Make me a reasonable offer and there yours .Both the reed and the lunati are 106cl
 
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