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Discussion Starter #1
Hey guys...i've recently wanted a car to get into autocrossing. I was wondering what you guys have used and really liked. I drive a 93 dodge shadow 2.5 non turbo, automatic...awesome car. Also, I have an 04 dodge neon srt-4. I still owe on the srt so i don't want to get to wild with it and break something just yet. The shadow was a 500 dollar car so i didn't want to stick money into a 2.5 non turbo not to mention automatic for autocross. If you were in my situation, which route would you guys go? Or just get a whole new project all together? Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter #3
i see a lot of guys running the glh. is it how small, light, and powerful they can be? what do those cars weigh stock? i know every driver is different in what setup they like..is there any way of knowing what might work for you before committing?
 

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well a shadow would work just fine just not to sure about the automatic that wouldnt be fun at all. just need some suspension mods. my buddy has an 03 jetta full interior caged with full bilstien suspension that we take. and a festiva with suspension work haha that ones fun.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
i was thinking about looking for a full 2.5 with turbo and wiring harness, all sensors and such to swap into the shadow. but i would look after winter. what tranny holds up pretty well in the manuals. i thought i've heard the a555
 

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I started autocrossing in 1989 with a turbo GLH. There was a guy with a 1984 GLH non-turbo that kicked my ass. He had 4 webbers, and lots of low end. Also better driver. I say all of this to make sure you know you do not need a turbo to have fun out there. It is also harder to drive a turbo car in an autocross in stock form. You have to learn when it is going to spool uo and be on the gas ahead of time.
Shadows will work autocrossing. They are a heavyier car that the L body but they do work. They work better with the suspension changes you can do, but then that puts you in a non-stock class.
Make sure you run the 1-1/4 inch front anti-sway bar that came on many of the cars and that will help a little. Make sure you have the solid rear factory rear bar in the axle, or change it out to the solid one that came on some of the cars. This will keep you in stock and make is corner better.Here is a page that can help with tuning..........
tips for better handling

Hope this helps a little.
Johnny
PolyBushings.com
 

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By the way, I made and installed a 1-1/8 inch front
anti-sway bar and a 1 inch rear bar on a SRT-4........
and it then handled GREAT.
Was a fun car.

Johnny
PolyBushings.com
 

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Discussion Starter #12
thanks for the advice johnny..i have another question. i have tockico luminas, eibach pro-kit, hotchkis front and rear sway bars, lighter wheels and different tires. when i take corners faster than i would normally, i feel like the car wants to spin out. i have the front set on 3 and the back is at 4. is that just normal or am i setting something up wrong?
 

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Firmer rear will make the rear "light" or want to maybe spin out, as you say. Loosen the rear by less shock stiffness or make the front stiffer to match the rear. Or resize the bars, ....you are using hollow bars? (hotchkis) Why?

Johnny
 

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Discussion Starter #15
i don't really know. i guess i was just thinking the lighter the better. is it not good to use the hotchkis?
 

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Yes lighter is better for taking off weight. But not for function. Thick wall hollow bars work well, but how thick are their bars? ALSO they do not work as well as the same diameter of solid bars.
I didn't even know they made them for our cars, not a big enough market for them, I would think.
Johnny
PolyBushings.com
 

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i love it
maby 3.0 5 speed swap would do the trick.
but if you tell them its a swap you are in d mod right off the start

blown head gasket lol still racing

 

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Discussion Starter #19
i'm not sure how thick the bars are..i might do some research into that...and glhman, that car is clean..she's a beauty
 
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