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Discussion Starter #1
OK so I had the head pulled off my 86 Daytona C/S Z and that's when it all went too hell!:bang head The Head was cracked all the way across and 2 of the valves are rusted closed. As for getting the head off 2 of the bolts broke of in the block while removing it (in the back near the fire wall both holes in the center), and the cylinder chambers are smooth as glass as well. So I honestly dont know what to do here.:confused:, I can order a WHOLE new head from a shop here in Albuquerque and its gonna run me bout 300$. As for the block the machine shop said they could fix it but we shall see:bash:. If ANY one has parts and or help please let me know.

Thanks

Derek
 

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Discussion Starter #3
You should post an ad for a head in the parts wanted section. That or search local yards and pull one.
I looked for one at junkyards and all of them are 2.5 liters or just base non turbo models. Not too sure if a 2.5 liter head will work with a 2.2 liter block:confused:
 

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Well a 2.5 head will fit right on a 2.2, they're the same.

Since you have an 86 you should have a 782 head. All cars 1986 and up got them, so go for that. Something else, 1988+ got roller cams, yours is a slider.

The big difference between NA and turbo heads is that the NA exhaust valves aren't as strong, you're going to want to get turbo exhaust valves if you want it to last.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Ok thanks Il check out the car soon and the reason its in the junk yard is a broken cam shaft so Im gonna find out if the motor is locked and in good shape
 

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90 Daytona Shelby, 89 Spirit ES, 96 Jeep XJ
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Broken cam shaft could be caused by a number of things. Most common are incorrect positioning or torquing of the cam caps and over-tightening the timing belt. Whatever head you pull at the yard you should have checked at a shop anyways. If you pull the head off and don't see anything obviously wrong with it, grab it and go to your machinist.

You can move your valvetrain parts over to that head or switch your car over to a roller setup (which is better in the long run, but not necessary)
 

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most has been said so far, it is NOT a bad thing you need to buy a new head. They are dirt cheap and stay that way as people are just tossing the old heads. Make sure you buy a Turbo head and buy it with the 88 only 2.2 NA TBI cam and followers. You can buy them online this way for about $225 on Ebay. Then when you get the head add PT lifters and shims.

On the block. They are easy to hone and ring and add bearings to. I would just do it unless there is a deep ware ridge. Unless you buy forged you can't buy a piston as nice as the stock one cast today anymore. So reuse the stock piston or forged is about the only real choices. Turbos squash there rod bearings, at least do them and chase the threads in the block for head bolts. Then get ARP studs or MP bolts, then a MP head gasket or a Cometic MLS. The MLS gaskets are what come stock on turbos today, the reason you hardly ever hear about head gasket problems.

After your done putting it back together add new vac lines and a FWDperformance stage 2 computer, cheap, a must with a log engine.

Also consider SS oil lines for the turbo and a rebuild kit in the turbo. They are easy to rebuild, once you get them apart and the bolts out. The car may smoke when your done because the same water that did your valves can be in the turbo. $500 at this point isn't bad to do a home over haul.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Ok cool so when i go down too the shop on Mon.to order the head I order the 88+ head for the upgrade? As far as the turbo upgrades were can i get a stage 2 computer??? and parts to upgrade the turbo???
 

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most has been said so far, it is NOT a bad thing you need to buy a new head. They are dirt cheap and stay that way as people are just tossing the old heads. Make sure you buy a Turbo head and buy it with the 88 only 2.2 NA TBI cam and followers. You can buy them online this way for about $225 on Ebay. Then when you get the head add PT lifters and shims.

On the block. They are easy to hone and ring and add bearings to. I would just do it unless there is a deep ware ridge. Unless you buy forged you can't buy a piston as nice as the stock one cast today anymore. So reuse the stock piston or forged is about the only real choices. Turbos squash there rod bearings, at least do them and chase the threads in the block for head bolts. Then get ARP studs or MP bolts, then a MP head gasket or a Cometic MLS. The MLS gaskets are what come stock on turbos today, the reason you hardly ever hear about head gasket problems.

After your done putting it back together add new vac lines and a FWDperformance stage 2 computer, cheap, a must with a log engine.

Also consider SS oil lines for the turbo and a rebuild kit in the turbo. They are easy to rebuild, once you get them apart and the bolts out. The car may smoke when your done because the same water that did your valves can be in the turbo. $500 at this point isn't bad to do a home over haul.
As for the new head Im gonna order it comes from some company in Texas and its pre assembled as well but only 300$ Im kinda new to the upgrade thing were can I get PT lifters and Shims??
 

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Ok cool so when i go down too the shop on Mon.to order the head I order the 88+ head for the upgrade? As far as the turbo upgrades were can i get a stage 2 computer??? and parts to upgrade the turbo???
buy a turbo head, that includes the valves and springs you need. Buy it with a 88 TBI FI NA cam, NOT the turbo cam. As a package there cheaper, toss the lifters.

Then get MP PT lifters and shims and add them. Should be $300 ish all done though.
 

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That's just for the valvetrain, not the complete head.
blah. I'm a noob. I was looking on the classifieds for people to attack and seen 782 head. Im going blind I tell ya. I think I need glasses but I just refuse to get my eyes checked out lol.
 
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