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ive just put the batttery in my hatch area and the battery relocation kit i bought from jegs only came with a 3 foot ground...... i was wondering if i need to run a ground from the block all the way back to the battery or will i have a good enough ground from the hatch area....i do have it grounded right now and it starts but i dont want to be lacking a good ground and i was told on a unibody u cant just have a ground in your trunk bc have the cars frame is really cheet metal instead of a solid frame.....let me know if im going to have grounding issues.....or if i have to run a line from the original ground all the way to the battery...i appreaciate everytthing thank you
 

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just groundthe negitive cable for the battery to the frame rail, i done this on my 86 charger and it doesnt effect anything! i also mounted the neg cable in the rear to a seat bolt,
 

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+1 the whople car is a ground with unibody framed cars have rubber insultors between the frame and body. so it is totally opposite of what you are being told.just make sure the area is BARE metal where your ground it and all the other grounds are bare metal and clean you should have no issues. the more grounds you have in the engine area the better as the motor is insulated from the frame. so the most common to be left off when repairs are made is the one from the passengers side mount to the mount on the block and the intake to the bulkhead/firewall the heavier the wire the better. amp install wire works great especially if you solder the ends on. i ran my shadow as a dd this way for years the battery was in the rear hatch. also make sure you run very heavy wire to the rear because increasing the length drops the voltage carring capability.
also if you plan to race with any sanctioning body they may require a battery shut off switch to kill the car from running. even on test and tune nights at the drag strip here they will check that. the swith needs to kil the car and a switch in between the positive cable will not kill it. there are a few wires coming from the ignition switch you will need to splice into. if i remeber correctly they are the dark blue wires. these will kill the whole system in the event of a crash where you are knocked out and the car runs on or fuel is spilled and you can't shut it off


Norm
 

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ive just put the batttery in my hatch area and the battery relocation kit i bought from jegs only came with a 3 foot ground...... i was wondering if i need to run a ground from the block all the way back to the battery or will i have a good enough ground from the hatch area....i do have it grounded right now and it starts but i dont want to be lacking a good ground and i was told on a unibody u cant just have a ground in your trunk bc have the cars frame is really cheet metal instead of a solid frame.....let me know if im going to have grounding issues.....or if i have to run a line from the original ground all the way to the battery...i appreaciate everytthing thank you
You have got good info here, BUT the ground cable from the frame to the engine block or to the alternator mount directly should be equally heavy gauge, preferably AWG 4 or 2. As for a kill switch I used a kill switch from an Tohatsu outboard motor with a coiled quick release key directly to the ignition coil. The shut off key to the alternator battery cable will shut the engine.
 
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