hello all! im new to this site so nice to be part of it, so i have and 85 daytona turbo1 and today i was pulling on to the onramp with a honda on my ass so i gave it the onion and that honda stayed on my ass and then blew by me at around 65 i just luaghed and gave the kid thumbs up it was a quick little hot rod he had but i dont want that happining again, my car is bone stock i got it for 500 bucks but i had to put a tranny in it its and auto. now my boss has two pipe benders and im getting pretty decent at using them my question is i wanted to put a 2.50 inch exhaust on it but i this guy was tellin me 3 inch is the only way to go with a turbo is a three inch realy worth it it will be i bit harder to snake over the axle by the fuel tank, in any case will it give me much more power that i will notice with the butt dyno? help me out here guys give me your input from your own experience let me know how to get a few ponies out of this thing so i dont get owned by another honda thanks!
beat by a honda today!
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Opening up the exhaust is the probably the best thing you can do for a stock car. A full 2.5 inch system should work just fine and you can get a 2.5 inch downpipe off an 89 or later turbo car (that's the year they upped them) which might make life easier in creating your own exhaust system. If you're keeping things mostly stock, a full 2.5 inch system will be plenty for you. If you start making any real power though, the 3 inch would be a good idea.
In case you haven't already, go to Donovan's Dodge Garage and read through the turbo datebase. Excellent starting point for all your turbo questions. Commit the information to memory and really think about what you want to do with the car. There's plenty of potential in the stock cars that was left untapped. We'll have you whupping Hondas again in no time. Welcome to the forums. :thumb:
In case you haven't already, go to Donovan's Dodge Garage and read through the turbo datebase. Excellent starting point for all your turbo questions. Commit the information to memory and really think about what you want to do with the car. There's plenty of potential in the stock cars that was left untapped. We'll have you whupping Hondas again in no time. Welcome to the forums. :thumb:
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Drop some weight, spare, rear seats, etc, whatever you really dont need. Furthermore if you're going to open up the exhaust it won't do worlds good if you don't have more air coming in either. Slap on a coldair filter, performance computer is a good idea, but I don't think that word goes w/ cheap very well. Get a boost controller and bump it up a bit and a zener diode. How many miles on the old girl? I had an 87Z TI that I did all that to w/ 120k, ran 15lbs pretty consistent, I'm sure it wasn't wonderous on the engine w/o an IC. Never had any problems for 30k miles though while I owned it. Guess those are just some ideas, but your situation is exactly what motivated me and I never got beat by one again.
Welcome I would go through and read DDG religiously. Turbo data base #27 is a good general guide to follow. I have an 85 T1 auto also and its decent now...haven't got to race my friends SVT focus in a while but last time I hung right with him.
So far I have-Boost controller set at 13-14lbs I personally wouldn't go with a zener diode on a log= (intake manifold style) because running over 14.75lbs of boost on the crappy intake manifold is suppose to have ill effects. I have a 3inch exhaust but it is not necessary by any means with the log intake and no I/C. 180 T stat with 1/16" hole at the top. Mobile 1 synthetic oil. Champion plugs RN9YC General tune up stuff...
If you could make your own 2.5" that would be great I would only consider 3" if you plan on going further than the above mods.
I'm hoping to run some mid to low 15's at sea level but I'll let you know in a couple weeks when I make it out to the track :thumb:
So far I have-Boost controller set at 13-14lbs I personally wouldn't go with a zener diode on a log= (intake manifold style) because running over 14.75lbs of boost on the crappy intake manifold is suppose to have ill effects. I have a 3inch exhaust but it is not necessary by any means with the log intake and no I/C. 180 T stat with 1/16" hole at the top. Mobile 1 synthetic oil. Champion plugs RN9YC General tune up stuff...
If you could make your own 2.5" that would be great I would only consider 3" if you plan on going further than the above mods.
I'm hoping to run some mid to low 15's at sea level but I'll let you know in a couple weeks when I make it out to the track :thumb:
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Thats the safe route. I didn't mention I had a new head on, new gaskets on upper end, bottom was solid, etc when I did all that. So I'm sure my measly 30k miles w/ the zener and boost at 15 (I even had up to 17ish at times if I knew I was going to race someone) wasn't particularly good on the engine, but I knew I wasn't going to have it much longer. Really wish I could have kept that car.
Either way, enough rambling, follow his advice. Probably safe to keep it set at 12lbs, no diode, but open up the intake. That way you're saving the engine a bit more, if you really want to save it don't abuse it
thanks for the advice guys, but whats the diode do and where do i put it? and how much can i crank up the boost it has 110K on it and the dude i bought it from said that he had already done the head gasket so that should be ok, also ive put a k&n filter on it but didnt notice anything power wise. how do i do the cold air i didnt mess with it because off the air box its got that scrunch tube lookin thing going to a black box that looks important so i left it alone lol do i need that box in route to the air cleaner or can i do away with it?
If you're asking where & what about the diode, read Donovan's Dodge Garage again. And again. I'd just leave the airbox in place. Usually when people put cold air on a car they're sucking hot underhood air instead of cold air, and pcv issues can be a nightmare. I wouldn't increase the boost AT ALL without the proper gauges telling me everything is ok. Without adding more fuel, all a diode will do is melt your engine.
Ya forget the diode for now...You need a boost controller to up the boost but like he said first things first is to get an A/F gauge and after market boost gauge. The in box K&N filter is fine just leave it be because the way its setup its already a cold air intake...
Boost controller and A/f Gauge and Boost Gauge can be ordered from Welcome to FWD Performance, Inc. or
Basic Boost Controller
Boost controller and A/f Gauge and Boost Gauge can be ordered from Welcome to FWD Performance, Inc. or
Basic Boost Controller
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Both the last posts are right. 90% of the "cold air" intakes I see EVERYWHERE, yes, including this site people are not really cold air. The guys are still sucking in warm engine air. W/o scrolling back thru I'm pretty positive you have a log intake like I had, I had a true cold air intake on it. If you want me to send some pictures of how it was done, let me know. It looked pretty decent, sounded great, and definately did the trick. That would be the only way I'd do a cold air on it.....the right way.
Definately get a boost controller and an A/F (air-fuel) monitor, something even from Dawes Devices (If that place is still around, thats where I got mine) would work just fine. You can even order the boost controller from him. He had a cutout raiser, which was essentially the same thing as the diode, which simply put allows you to raise your boost higher than it should be. The diodes don't fry your engine as stated before. I ran my ShelbyZ for years w/ one ranging from 14-18lbs of boost. Would I recommend it? No, especially if you're new to this stuff and aren't careful. Get the boost controller, A/F meter, and raise your boost to 12-14. Call it good. If you need more, then go w/ the cold air, but do it right. I wouldn't toy w/ the diode or cutout raiser unless you really know what you're getting into (playing w/ fire). Oh, forgot to mention in response to the cold air and PCV system....yea, thats another thing to keep in mind. It dicks w/ that system pretty bad sometimes if you don't know what you're doing.
Definately get a boost controller and an A/F (air-fuel) monitor, something even from Dawes Devices (If that place is still around, thats where I got mine) would work just fine. You can even order the boost controller from him. He had a cutout raiser, which was essentially the same thing as the diode, which simply put allows you to raise your boost higher than it should be. The diodes don't fry your engine as stated before. I ran my ShelbyZ for years w/ one ranging from 14-18lbs of boost. Would I recommend it? No, especially if you're new to this stuff and aren't careful. Get the boost controller, A/F meter, and raise your boost to 12-14. Call it good. If you need more, then go w/ the cold air, but do it right. I wouldn't toy w/ the diode or cutout raiser unless you really know what you're getting into (playing w/ fire). Oh, forgot to mention in response to the cold air and PCV system....yea, thats another thing to keep in mind. It dicks w/ that system pretty bad sometimes if you don't know what you're doing.
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Since its a log I wouldn't run anymore then 12 PSI at the most. And the cut out raiser leans out the motor at higher boost because the computer still thinks its only seeing 14.7 psi of boost vs. the extra boost you are running and doesn't compensate for the extra boost with extra fuel. So an afpr is a must. But then again your log intake is a real limiter in flow and power and the boosts stacks up in that type of intake. So if you want any real power over 12 psi non intercooled would be go t2 with a good intercooler and save yourself from detonation and have a ton of more modding room.
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I don't want to cause any problems here or contradict anyone, but I did run this setup w/ no problems. The log intake isn't terrible. I sat at 16lbs of boost most of the time on that car. If what you're saying is true turbokid, then I was leaning out my engine everytime I got on it, however I watched that A/F guage religiously. I put 30k some odd miles on a 110kmile engine (w/ only a new head, turbo,and gaskets) I never ran into a problem and never recall seeing a 'lean' reading.
Regardless, listen to my advice and everyone elses. Stay low on boost. Theres no need to push it. 12 is safe, I won't even tell you to go higher then.
Regardless, listen to my advice and everyone elses. Stay low on boost. Theres no need to push it. 12 is safe, I won't even tell you to go higher then.
I said it'll cook the engine IF more fuel isn't added because the computer won't do it for you.
Dawes Devices is now known as 3barracing.com
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A/F gauges are garbage.. Get a wideband o2 if you really want to watch the Air/Fuel Ratio.
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Ah, that you did. So can we all agree on this list for him?
Step1
A/F meter/wideband
Boost controller (12lbs)
Diet (loose some weight on that beast)
Step2
Cold air filter
Step3
Time and money for anything here on
Step1
A/F meter/wideband
Boost controller (12lbs)
Diet (loose some weight on that beast)
Step2
Cold air filter
Step3
Time and money for anything here on
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I'd recommend, from FWD Performance...
ECU 1985 Stage 2 Calibration ~ 14lbs of boost, safely!
Underdrive Pulley Kit (84-87) ~ Good for a few extra ponies
Catback Pipes 3in. ~ Turbo back
Adjustable Cam Sprocket (square) or MP Offset Cam Keys ~ Dialing in the sweet spot of the cam
F-1 Camshaft Package ~ time to get that slider out and replace it with a roller with some agression! Or find a MP Super 60 cam
Innovate Motorsports Wideband O2
Boost gauge(Autometer is good quality)
ECU 1985 Stage 2 Calibration ~ 14lbs of boost, safely!
Underdrive Pulley Kit (84-87) ~ Good for a few extra ponies
Catback Pipes 3in. ~ Turbo back
Adjustable Cam Sprocket (square) or MP Offset Cam Keys ~ Dialing in the sweet spot of the cam
F-1 Camshaft Package ~ time to get that slider out and replace it with a roller with some agression! Or find a MP Super 60 cam
Innovate Motorsports Wideband O2
Boost gauge(Autometer is good quality)
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lol you was making one when I was
A/F wideband, no gauges! LOL that is my only dislike in it:nodding:
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For weight lose and still having a stock look.
Remove top and bottom of the back seats from car and trim off some of the material. If no one is ever in the back seats dont worry about how much. If there is, remove in area's they dont seat in, or their body doesnt apply much pressure at(you will know by seating in the seat where not to trim).
Remove the door panels, remove the plastic or black foam cover(trash it). You can take material off the door itself if you'd like(no one will ever see it with the door panels back on.
Take the seats out of the car... Pull the carpet, remove the greyish insulation applied to the bottom of the carpet, reinstall.
There are a few other area's that once covered wont be noticed but ill stop here lol
Remove top and bottom of the back seats from car and trim off some of the material. If no one is ever in the back seats dont worry about how much. If there is, remove in area's they dont seat in, or their body doesnt apply much pressure at(you will know by seating in the seat where not to trim).
Remove the door panels, remove the plastic or black foam cover(trash it). You can take material off the door itself if you'd like(no one will ever see it with the door panels back on.
Take the seats out of the car... Pull the carpet, remove the greyish insulation applied to the bottom of the carpet, reinstall.
There are a few other area's that once covered wont be noticed but ill stop here lol
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