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Discussion Starter #1
I've been a little out of the loop and I don't know what the best program/vendor/calibration is for 1990 vehicles. I'm looking to swap my 89 t2 2.5 motor (whcih is running 87 socked LM with Shel-Game chip into a 1990 vehicle. I'm looking for something with good features for drag racing (possibly launch control) and run 18 pounds of boost and perhaps more with a 3 bar map. Anyways.... let me know which vendor/product I should go with.
 

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Ya I checked out your site. Boost button.comx
 

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Ya I checked out your site. Boost button.com I'm not sure what year daytona I'm going to end up with, but most likely I will need a SMEC or SBEC. From reading it appears you can only flash SBEC's 1990 and newer. Older SMEC's require chips? I'm also interested in logging vitals etc so that would be something I'd like to do.
 

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So you can flash both SMEC and SBEC? I'm assuming you do the mods to the computers to set them up for flashing? I'm also assuming there's some sort of software program for laptops to then do the flashes through the USB port.
 

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So you can flash both SMEC and SBEC? I'm assuming you do the mods to the computers to set them up for flashing? I'm also assuming there's some sort of software program for laptops to then do the flashes through the USB port.
Correct on all counts.

I install a module that I build into the socket. The module uses a 28C256 chip that can be flashed using 5V, and it has the circuitry on it to re-interpret the control signals during bootstrap mode so that it can be flashed (have to trick the on-board bus controller).

The SMEC is kind of a pain in that more wiring has to be done. The SBEC is a little easier because Chrysler was nice enough to put the control signals on 4 'extra' pads just to the right of the EPROM. I think they had a similar development module or something. So, you can install a 32-pin socket and then the module is a plug-in (and you can swap to a stock chip if you like). The only problem is, 3 of the pads are not drilled. Drilling them isn't so difficult, but getting solder to flow thru the board is. I'm still trying to find a 'good' way to do it.

Then, you need a USB cable to flash the computer. MP Tune 2 has the flash program built-in to it. So, you can build a tune, and flash it to the ECU from the same program. Flashing over USB takes about 6 seconds.

For flashing the SBEC, you also need a protection circuit on the USB cable since Chrysler mux'd the boot wire onto the Rx line into the SBEC. The USB-to-SCI cable that I make has this circuit built in, and I give you a foot of wire to add the boot switch to. Plus, my cable is a plug-in to the SCI port so you don't have to try and figure out the Rx/Tx polarity (which can be a headache).
 

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We will be in touch over the next couple months once I know what my project vehicle will be.
 
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