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well, you shouldn't unless you're adding extra fuel, cuz 2 things:
1. stock ecm won't add fuel past 14.x psi
2. stock ecm won't see 'real' boost P if yur using a bleed valve on the MAP, thus won't even add correct fuel up to 14.x psi

result = melted piston(s) &/or cracked ring(s)
{AMHIK}

still want to know ?

a better question might be -
what is the easiest and safest way to pick up xx Hp on my current (description) setup 'cuz I'm hoping to achieve (describe goals) ?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I have the supporting modifications to run more than 15psi including: 3 bar map, computer, injectors, turbo, intercooler, ect. I keep running into the same body issue even after changing the engine harness and redoing the vaccuum lines. I am out of ideas on fixing it correctly. The codes it shows is intake air temp, speed sensor, and purge solenoid. I'll try two of the three but until then
 

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Discussion Starter #6
The same body issues???
I'm not trying to be a jerk or ect, but this is my last attempt at trying to fix it correctly before I put a 2.4 in it. Take it as u may, I just want it to work correctly and do what it should do. It needs the stage 3 cam and valve seals but one issue at a time.
 

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the fact that you're asking about a bleed valve when you claim to have a 3-bar map & corresponding ECM & injectors suggest that you don't understand how the EFI system works

I suggest you don't do any boosted runs until you figure out the problem

if you cant figure out stock TD wiring & ECM how do you think you're gonna pull off a 2.4 swap ?

this is a good book
https://www.biblio.com/book/how-tune-modify-chrysler-fuel-injection/d/1194609720
 

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Discussion Starter #8
the fact that you're asking about a bleed valve when you claim to have a 3-bar map & corresponding ECM & injectors suggest that you don't understand how the EFI system works

I suggest you don't do any boosted runs until you figure out the problem

if you cant figure out stock TD wiring & ECM how do you think you're gonna pull off a 2.4 swap ?

this is a good book
https://www.biblio.com/book/how-tune-modify-chrysler-fuel-injection/d/1194609720
I have found information on the 2.4 swap that is actually useful, if you claim to have any let me know. However, I am going to explore the suggestions from NAJ. Let me know if you have any actual suggestion other than insulting comments.
 

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Easy gents,

shelby3322, detobias is giving tough love to enforce his point of making sure everything is tuned right before jacking up the boost, otherwise the result is a blown motor, not if but when is the question after that. Air charge issues will affect mid-throttle fuel/air, this should be rectified before boost tweaking. Purge less important. Speed sensor causes stall on deceleration.

A/F Wideband is a must!

If you have air charge/speed sensor/purge codes, all three are simple. Check sensors using a multi-meter (assume NAJ has you hooked up with the data you need, if not let me know), check purge using a 9V battery and blow through. Once all three confirmed OK, check continuity to LM/SMEC for each sensor/solenoid wire. A pinout of your year LM/SMEC will allow you to accomplish this. Speed sensor and air charge has a signal wire, signal ground wire which can be traced to the computer. See links below.

Understanding The Chrysler ECU

Air Charge Temperature Sensor - MiniMopar Resources

Speed/Distance Sensor - MiniMopar Resources

With that out of the way, boost control should be computer controlled these days, but otherwise read:

Mini-Mopar Turbo Performance

Mini-Mopar Turbo Performance

Mini-Mopar Turbo Performance
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Easy gents,

shelby3322, detobias is giving tough love to enforce his point of making sure everything is tuned right before jacking up the boost, otherwise the result is a blown motor, not if but when is the question after that. Air charge issues will affect mid-throttle fuel/air, this should be rectified before boost tweaking. Purge less important. Speed sensor causes stall on deceleration.

A/F Wideband is a must!

If you have air charge/speed sensor/purge codes, all three are simple. Check sensors using a multi-meter (assume NAJ has you hooked up with the data you need, if not let me know), check purge using a 9V battery and blow through. Once all three confirmed OK, check continuity to LM/SMEC for each sensor/solenoid wire. A pinout of your year LM/SMEC will allow you to accomplish this. Speed sensor and air charge has a signal wire, signal ground wire which can be traced to the computer. See links below.

Understanding The Chrysler ECU

Air Charge Temperature Sensor - MiniMopar Resources

Speed/Distance Sensor - MiniMopar Resources

With that out of the way, boost control should be computer controlled these days, but otherwise read:

Mini-Mopar Turbo Performance

Mini-Mopar Turbo Performance

Mini-Mopar Turbo Performance
Thank you for providing helpful information. I aan not a tough love type person, just trying to fix ab ongoing issue.
 

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Has anybody read his other thread?
His issue is ignition related and is not an overboost issue.
I already posted instructions on how to proceed with diagnostics.
If the OP is having issues with a 2.2L and does not agree with or is not willing to diagnose the issue a 2.4L swap is not going to fix that, what happens when he has issues with that engine, a swap to another setup???
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Has anybody read his other thread?
His issue is ignition related and is not an overboost issue.
I already posted instructions on how to proceed with diagnostics.
If the OP is having issues with a 2.2L and does not agree with or is not willing to diagnose the issue a 2.4L swap is not going to fix that, what happens when he has issues with that engine, a swap to another setup???
I am going to explore your suggestions when I am able, as previously mentioned. If that does or does not check out I'll to the next suggestion. I can provide an entire parts list it that would be more helpful.
 

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Let's start with the basics and move on from there.
Couple more questions...
1)Has there ever been a Code 45 stored in memory?
2) Is the power loss/check engine lamp illuminated or does it come on when the problem occurs?
3)The air charge and coolant temp sensor codes, have you cleared those to see if they return?
4)Just out of curiosity does this problem occur at the same boost level all of the time or is it random?
5)What is boost reading, generally when the problem occurs?

)

) Hi
,
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Let's start with the basics and move on from there.
Couple more questions...
1)Has there ever been a Code 45 stored in memory?
2) Is the power loss/check engine lamp illuminated or does it come on when the problem occurs?
3)The air charge and coolant temp sensor codes, have you cleared those to see if they return?
4)Just out of curiosity does this problem occur at the same boost level all of the time or is it random?
5)What is boost reading, generally when the problem occurs?

)

) Hi
,
1) Did not see code 45. I've only ran the. diagnostics once since the new to me harness. (Checked and rechecked)
2) Varies, turns on and at random. Off when the car starts generally and turns on later.
3) No
4) same level everytime
5) 14/15
 

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Discussion Starter #17
I thought I would post a parts list, it was 08 when I completed most of the modifications so I may have of forgotten a few things...
Stage 4 or 5 cal
3 bar MAP
+40 injectors
Aluminum fuel rail
4 wire o2 sensor
8.5 magnecor plug wires
Autolite 63 sparkplugs
52mm throttle body
T1 to T2 AIS/TPS conversation
Grounding wire kit
Turbonetics 50 trim small turbo
2.5 swing valve
Full 3" exhaust
Port/polish 2 piece intake
Port/polish exhaust manifold
Port/polish head +1mm valves
Stage 2 cam (needs stage 3 & valve seals)
.20 over venolia pistons
T2 Rods
Forged crank
Aluminum flywheel
6 puck clutch
a523 trans I think.... its number 4
ARP headstuds
ARP mainstuds
Non-vented rear disk conversion
Koni shocks/struts
Pumper wheels
I'm sure I forgot something....
Runs great on 30 psi boost, when it works
Budget intercooler from fwdperformance
Intercooler piping recently changed from this pic and before engine harness swap
 

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How do u make a bleed valve for running more than 15 psi of boost?

OK this thread is falling apart .. just a little ... and I think it's perspective related

this affected the "comprehension" of the first post

shelby 3322 . hang in there .. and so far I see two obviously helpful posts along with a couple that are an attempt ..and one that's just brutally honest .

now comprehension IS my superpower ..so,

we have a site that has greatly reduced in usage

those of us here are probably kinda familiar with seeing each other's posts

shelby 3322 .. you're kinda" new from that perspective even with your old join date

we're simply not recognizing you ..from our current day perspective

sorry about that

though ,the first post could maybe have been phrased better

the words mechanical boost controller.. everyone WOULD immediately by perception have a clue you know what you're asking unlike a newbie with an old mopar mag he read

as "bleed valve" brought me personally back to 84-ish and a mopar mag with a fish tank bleed valve on the wastegate .. and no extra fueling...in an 84 daytona turbo

which brings us to the obvious .. eah .. you don't really wanna do that

as was pointed out

additionally there's nothing wrong with asking how to build a boost controller even if you're currently having car issues

kinda like waiting for the new york subway to start running after interruption while discussing the london bus service ..

The"D.I.Y."Manual Boost Control


now , I had the bleed that the old Direct Connection LM called for on my log motor years ago

it looked exactly like half the check valve for the heat/a-c system with a porous brass or bronze "brick" stuck in one side and the nipple on the other

I'd presume the length of the brick determined it's bleed rate and it would be similar in size as a part when compared to the heat-a/c check valve when it has it's rubber right angle boot added that attaches it to the brake booster's nipple

so , at least you will know what it looks like if you see it

(yeah , my join date is sept '88 lol)
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Agreed, but im not trying increase the boost, I'm trying to manipulate the map sensor. I know it's not the best plan which is why I added a 3 bar map. I'll try getting the codes cleared and see where that leaves me.
 

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if you're having an over boosting issue , have you checked the proper function of the wastegate actuator ?

if this is an older build the diaphragm in it may simply be wimped out (?) & doesn't wanna play anymore

or the mechanical bits could be stuck
 
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