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ok , wait .. maybe some constructive criticism..

I saved your pic and enlarged it on my 50 inch TV that I sue as a monitor

mmm if you are having a map sensor sensing issue I think you may need to redesign that vacuum block / line routing deal you have going on

A .. change to a hard line so your signals are strong and the vac / press energy goes to the sensors and not into stretching the hoses

and route the map with a dedicated hard line to the manifold while keeping that line as short as reasonable to do
 

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No Code 45, happens at 14/15 lbs of boost with a 3 Bar map and controller, car just shuts off and then restarts on its own, I still feel you have an ignition issue
Have you performed the wiggle test on the HEP wiring yet?
Also, clear the codes, be sure they cleared and drive the car to see what codes return.
If the power loss lamp illuminates when your problem is happening and the only codes are ACT and CTS we will diagnose those codes.
 

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Discussion Starter #24
The car runs better after adding the vacuum block. It's basically the same as coming from the intake and splitting into the 4 hard lines, 1 line per solenoid. I think the main vacuum line from the intake now is fuel line, it's more rigid. The boost issue didn't change from before vacuum block to after, maybe slightly improved due to the new set of solenoids.
 

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Discussion Starter #25
No Code 45, happens at 14/15 lbs of boost with a 3 Bar map and controller, car just shuts off and then restarts on its own, I still feel you have an ignition issue
Have you performed the wiggle test on the HEP wiring yet?
Also, clear the codes, be sure they cleared and drive the car to see what codes return.
If the power loss lamp illuminates when your problem is happening and the only codes are ACT and CTS we will diagnose those codes.
The cel light turns on randomly an stays on, instead of only when it hits more then 14/15.
 

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I have run many MBC of homemade design and commercially available ones and they are just OK at best.
I would recommend the follow to read. I REALLY like my HDI Dual Electronic Boost Boost Controller EBC-SE
MBC vs EBC
 

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No Code 45, happens at 14/15 lbs of boost with a 3 Bar map and controller, car just shuts off and then restarts on its own, I still feel you have an ignition issue
Have you performed the wiggle test on the HEP wiring yet?
Also, clear the codes, be sure they cleared and drive the car to see what codes return.
If the power loss lamp illuminates when your problem is happening and the only codes are ACT and CTS we will diagnose those codes.
The cel light turns on randomly an stays on, instead of only when it hits more then 14/15.
From what I can tell your issue (s) are not boost related.
Again, you need to check the ignition system and clear the codes and see which code(s) return when the Power Loss/CEL illuminates.
 

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Discussion Starter #29
No Code 45, happens at 14/15 lbs of boost with a 3 Bar map and controller, car just shuts off and then restarts on its own, I still feel you have an ignition issue
Have you performed the wiggle test on the HEP wiring yet?
Also, clear the codes, be sure they cleared and drive the car to see what codes return.
If the power loss lamp illuminates when your problem is happening and the only codes are ACT and CTS we will diagnose those codes.
The cel light turns on randomly an stays on, instead of only when it hits more then 14/15.
From what I can tell your issue (s) are not boost related.
Again, you need to check the ignition system and clear the codes and see which code(s) return when the Power Loss/CEL illuminates.
Thanks, I'm looking into it
 

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Discussion Starter #34
I replaced the charge temp sensor, speed sensor and half hal pickup; still can't boost more than 15 lbs. The only choice it shows is 31. Any thoughts?
 

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maybe exhaust pressure is simply opening the wastegate.. overcoming the wastegate actuator and making your boost target possible 'cause there's basically a big leak
(???)

if the issue isn't in "control" it must be in the "do" ( electronics vs mechanicals)

I think maybe sometimes we forget and look for overly complicated answers

simplest reason I can think of is a weak spring
 

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it's meant to bleed of drive pressure or force .. not boost

so if it's making enough drive force to blow the wastegate open at 15#'s then it's going to maintain that 15#'s as if you had a mechanical wastegate with a 15 pound spring in it

so it's not the boost press reference / control to the diaphragm opening the gate but the pressure in the turbine housing acting on the wastegate door

..IF the actuator's spring is done or just not strong enough
 

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adjustable wastegate actuator rod ??

it it set just short enough of the peg and then pulled slightly to fit on the w-g door ?

it needs to be a little short and a little force fitted for accuracy
 

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I would first suggest doing EVERYTHING in NAJ's suggestions, and making sure everything ignition and timing related is squared away.

After that I would also check to make sure you actually have a 3 bar MAP sensor. If you don't youre going to keep chasing your tail.

If its been since 08 since you built it, and it hasn't ran well in some time, I would verify everything is functioning properly.
 

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I would first suggest doing EVERYTHING in NAJ's suggestions, and making sure everything ignition and timing related is squared away.

After that I would also check to make sure you actually have a 3 bar MAP sensor. If you don't youre going to keep chasing your tail.

If its been since 08 since you built it, and it hasn't ran well in some time, I would verify everything is functioning properly.
This is a really good point, absolutely make sure you have a 3 bar map sensor by part number. GM 3-bar and 2-bar look identical externally.
 
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