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Discussion Starter #1
HI. I am sorry for this question. I have searched all the threads I could find but couldn't find an answer. So here it goes. I bought one of those manual boost controllers off eBay and it came with NO instructions (what a shock). The problem is this. I has the MBC and this T splitter piece with a ball in it and you can only blow in it one way. I am not sure if I need it or it's function. The boost controller itself has no air bleeder on it so I am led to believe it has to be used to release the pressure but I have no idea. Called the company up I bought it from and they have No idea either. I don't know who the bigger dumb ass is, them for not knowing what they are selling or me...the sucker who actually bought it from the people who don't know what they are selling. verdicts still out. I have been to all my local performance shops and no one has a clue to the configuration of this thing. I also run my own shop and I am stumped. I freely say I am in a dumb ass state of mind. If anyone knows how to route this thing and explain to me about the arrows and the T piece I will cheerfully say you da man and I the dumb ass. Also if anyone's got a diagram would be great too. Please help. Also My car is a 1986 dodge daytona turbo z.:bang head
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Now I have but that does not help any. The boost controller I have has 2 ports (inlet/outlet) then the T has three openings The top part is colored blue and the other ends are fittings. You can blow through the one fitting and air comes out the top of the T (colored fitting). However if you blow on the other end of the fitting (non colored) I can't blow through it. If you go to eBay and look up boost controllers MBC you will see what I am talking about. They come in blue red and black colors but they are all the same. The MBC and that T piece. Thanks for responding so quickly.
 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)


I think I did this right. This is the boost controller I got. I decided to be cheep for the first time in my life and now I have run into a mess of problems. Should have gone greddy, hks or turbo X. Any suggestions? This makes NO sense to me.
 

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wow what a pile of crap, sorry you got this. 1st off, the tubing they provide is a really bad choice, controlling the wastegate should be done with very small diameter hard plastic tubing not that huge soft rubber stuff. so you are already in trouble.

my guess (this is a guess only) is the arrows point towards airflow to the wastegate. so manifold pressure (vacuum/boost) should be hooked to the lower nipple on main control body. run a line out from this at the top nipple to the "T" block. the center of the "t" block must be the reverse flow check valve leave that center nipple open to vent.

run the other end of the t-block to your wastegate actuator.

this is all a guess mind you. but wow what a system you shouldve got a Grainger Valve for ten bucks.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Yeah. Tell me about it. The one time I decided to be cheep. Sheesh. Back to dumping excessive amounts of money back into the car. It's not bad but leaves me broke all the time. I figured I could cut a corner with a boost controller.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Also forgot to mention I knew that about the hoses and I purchased plastic tubing. I also replaced all the vacuum lines with collapse proof blue silicone hoses. Suckers cost me $110 too. They better work.:banaride::rocket: God I love these inserts!
I will post some pictures of my set up so you can see what I got. I am installing the pressure regulator for the 100 shot of nitrous tonight.
 

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I would just replace that t with a vent hole on a coupler.
 

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Discussion Starter #11


After 5 days of internet searching I found this but it is for a external wastegate. Mine is a internal wastegate. After a thorough inspection of the boost controller I found out there is no air bleeder piece on it. I am guessing I have to use the T. But how the hell do I install it on a internally wastegated turbo? This thing is so frustrating I have to find out now. You ever get so stumped and booged out that weather hell itself boils out of a volcano and swallows up the earth your going to find out how something works? Well I am there. I have never spent so long trying to find out an answer for something so cheep. LOL. I have to find out now. I have to laugh at my stupidity it buying something so cheep w/o instruction but at this point I have to know just so I can go to sleep at night. Keep the info coming and thanks for everyones input though I will pass on the idea of turning up the boost till the engine blows a head gasket and turning it back. I have over $4000.00 in the engine. Not gonna happen...Then why the cheep ass MBC? Well I was persuaded by a gang of evil monkeys:bash:
 

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Perhaps you don't need the T at all. The arrow indicates air flow under pressure, from the manifold. Hook it up like the Grainger one and try it.

John O
Crete, Ne.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Yeah I could hook it up like that but I thought the MBC needed a place to vent? I know if I blow through the one nipple (yeah I am laughing too) it blows air through the other hole. As I close the valve at the top it slowly cuts off the flow till I can not blow air through it at all. Is that the way these work? Again I thought that MBC's were to vent air out somewhere or are there indeed MBC's that don't need a vent port? Does the grainger have a vent port on it or not?:confused:
 

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unless i am wrong the MBC you purchased is nothing but an adjustable pressure relief valve, just like a grainger valve, the working principle is to use a spring-loaded ball-on-a-seat to provide a force to restrict the flow of air (ie: manifold pressure) to the wastegate, the knob on the top increases/decreases the pre-load on spring. just like a grainger valve which instead of a knob threads in/out to accomplish same thing.

and yes, all MBC's regardless of design need a vent on the line going to the wastegate to allow the wastegate to move in both directions (ie: open/close).

Like suggested in Post #9 above, eliminate that t-block thing totally, and just install a vent hole (.020" dia.) in the line going to the wastegate can.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
If I take a needle and put a pin hole in it how is that going to be enough to release pressure? Isn't the silicone hose just going to mesh back together and seal the hole up>also if there is a pin hole in it then the pressure going to the wastegate can will be reduced b/c the pressure will be leaking out the pin hole? Or is that how it works and the whole point in the adjustment at the top of the MBC?
 

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The purpose of the vent hole is to release the presure after the valve closes. If the hole was not there, then the swingvalve would just hag open since the air pressure is not released. Do not put a pin hole on the hose, it will rip and give you overboost when that happens.

What I would do is use that T you got there, remove the spring and ball and either put a short hose with orifice (hole )there they sell them in the help section at the parts store, or remove one of the nipples and buy a brass plug and drill a small hole for the boost to vent.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
OK then correct me if I am wrong here. If I run a line off the turbo intercooler pipe (by the turbo) thats the pressure line right? the line I run from that will be pressurized or will it have vacuum? I thought at idle it will be pressurized and when you step on the gas that side of the intercooler pipe system becomes pressurized. The other side of the intercooler (cold pipe) becomes a vacuum. If this is accurate then wouldn't I need vacuum pressure to hold the wastegate from opening or is that what the vent port on the MBC is for. To increase the vacuum on the wastegate? If thats so then does it also mean the higher RPM's the more vacuum increases. Then how do you stop in from increasing continuously? Either way I want more vacuum to hold the wastegate closed right? Less vacuum means less tensionon on the spring which means less boost? Then how do you get a wastegate to stay closed to reach 20+ psi of boost when the flow of the exhaust is strong enough to open it up for itself or is it not that strong? I was thinking how do you increase the vacuum to keep it closed longer while under boost to get more PSI?
 

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The wastegate has a spring internally to hold it closed, once the diaphram sees pressure it starts pushing the wg open to for the exhaust to bypass the turbine wheel. So if the wg sees no boost, then the flapper won't open till around 20psi because of the spring. I run my mbc from manifold, some will run it from the manifold or the throtle body nipple.
 
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