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Discussion Starter #1
Any more thoughts? I replaced the engine harness, redone the vacuum lines and it still hits fuel cut. I have the supporting mods 3 bar map, and calibrated computer. It worked 1 time after changing the harness and vacuum lines recently.... debating on utilizing a bleed valve. Had been an ongoing issue for a while.
 

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The assumption here is that there is a Code 45 stored in memory.

Have you verified that the Wastegate is opening and at the required pressure and that the pressure is actually getting to the wastegate?

1)Tee a "Vacuum/Pressure" gauge (that reads to 15 PSI) inline between the Wastegate Solenoid and Wastegate, tape it to the windshield and go for a ride (with a helper).
If pressure is getting to the wastegate then you will need to apply air pressure to the wastegate to see if and when it is opening.

Vacuum/Pressure Gauge
https://www.tooltopia.com/kd-tools-2521.aspx

Vacuum/Pressure Pump
https://www.tooltopia.com/mityvac-mv8500.aspx

2)Verify that the Map Sensor Calibration is correct and the Map is reading actual pressure correctly.

Checking Map Sensor Circuit
https://www.turbododge.com/forums/f4/f14/344296-code-13-14-diagnostics.html


If the Wastegate and Map circuits are functioning properly and you still have an overboost issue it is probably due to the turbo "overspooling", probably because the turbo is too small and backpressure has been removed.
 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
The codes it displays are 15, 23, 31 & 33. Tell me if I translated it correctly, speed sensor, intake air sensor, evap solenoid, and a/c; would these cause my issue? I thought it was the coolant temp sensor most of the time because the clip on the connector was broke and would come loose.
 

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When the failure occurs it basically shuts off while pulling and shoots out a cloud of black smoke
That is not overboost, that sounds like an electrical/ignition issue, either an issue with the Coil or HEP/HEP Connectors and generally the issue is with the HEP Circuit.

If the issue was/is with any sensor your Power Loss Lamp/Check Engine Lamp would be illuminated.

My suggestion would be to...
1)Perform a Wiggle Test on the Hep Wiring and Connectors to attempt to get the engine to stall/shutdown.
Way back in the 90's my Son/Daughter In Law had a Lancer TBI car that would shutdown/start right back up again just like you are describing when they hit ruts/bumps in the road and the issue was the HEP Connector.
2)If that does not produce any results use an adjustable spark tester to be sure the coil is capable of producing enough KV to accommodate load.

Also...
Be sure your Main Controller Ground is connected/tight and secured on a clean surface.
ELECTRICAL- Main Controller Ground 84-89.jpg

HEP (HALL EFFECT PICKUP
https://www.autozone.com/ignition-tune-up-and-routine-maintenance/pick-up-coil/duralast-pick-up-coil-cr121/882_0_0
(Duralast Ignition is manufactured by Wells Electronics)
CAUTION: DO NOT use a Standard Motor Products HEP unless Standard Motor Products is stamped on the underside of the pickup!!! BWD is owned by SMP so same applies.
CAUTION: If you have to replace the HEP DO NOT place any sharp bends in the wiring as the factory had it or internal damage to the wiring will occur.

ADJUSTABLE SPARK TESTER
https://www.autozone.com/test-scan-and-specialty-tools/ignition-tester/oemtools-adjustable-ignition-spark-tester/10257_0_0

IGNITION - Adjustable Spark Tester.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I ended up using the coil that came with the new harness instead of the one I had, looks to be a factory mopar piece. However, the results are the same.
 

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You have to diagnose to find your problem, not just replace parts. Did you check the HEP circuit as instructed?
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I haven't been able to recently, but in progress. The engine harness was part of the problem, runs better and is more reliable.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I thought I would post a parts list, it was 08 when I completed most of the modifications so I may have of forgotten a few things...
Stage 4 or 5 cal
3 bar MAP
+40 injectors
Aluminum fuel rail
4 wire o2 sensor
8.5 magnecor plug wires
Autolite 63 sparkplugs
52mm throttle body
T1 to T2 AIS/TPS conversation
Grounding wire kit
Turbonetics 50 trim small turbo
2.5 swing valve
Full 3" exhaust
Port/polish 2 piece intake
Port/polish exhaust manifold
Port/polish head +1mm valves
Stage 2 cam (needs stage 3 & valve seals)
.20 over venolia pistons
T2 Rods
Forged crank
Aluminum flywheel
6 puck clutch
a523 trans I think.... its number 4
ARP headstuds
ARP mainstuds
Non-vented rear disk conversion
Koni shocks/struts
Pumper wheels
I'm sure I forgot something....
Runs great on 30 psi boost, when it works
Intercooler piping recently changed from the pic and before the engine harness swap
O and budget intercooler from FWDPERFORMANCE which is where most if not all the parts came from
 

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cough

I had a shelby z that had a miss when I accelerated

had it when I bought it and had it for a couple of months until..

I noted the coil wire that ran from the fender mounted coil to the distributor in the stock fashion was lose in the tower of the coil

the terminal on the end of the coil wire was just a little to small to fit tight in the coil so it moved when the weight of the wire pulled on it under acceleration

pull the boot up the wire and test the fit
 
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