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Discussion Starter #1
I was driving home from work and felt a snap in the clutch pedal and began to notice the clutch engagement was altered. I suspected something in the pedal but in fact the clutch cable at the clutch arm was the problem and only partially snapped.....there were a few strands still holding on. I was able to make it home, thankfully.
I ordered a new clutch cable from RA and would like to know if there are any suggestions or tips for the install? Particularly inside at the clucth pedal. My service manual is very vague and I have only had the pleasure of removing the cable on the fork end of the TD's for trans removal and replacements.
This is on an '85 GLH Turbo....thanks in advance!
 

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I'm glad to hear that someone makes the cable for our cars.
The problem is that the cable is wire rope made of many strands that over time, fray and break.

Do you have the Chrysler service manual or is it another brand?
I would think you could find video "how to's" on youtube.

I'm guessing that it would be easier to attach the cable to the clutch pedal first, then have someone depress the pedal to give you slack while you attach the cable to the shift fork.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks Jim,
I have not received the cable yet but will be interested to see how it compares to the one on the car now. The specs say that it is 42" long. I have the factory manual but it is very vague. Only shows a schematic of the cables routing.
My plan is to start the install by (1) feeding the cable through the firewall then (2) attaching it to the pedal then (3) attach the cable to the bracket on the strut tower and (4) I will push up on the clutch arm to finish the install on that end.
Just curious to know if there is any tricky part to installing it on the pedal. Thanks again!
 

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I haven't done the install, but long ago I bought a spare Chrysler clutch cable just in case I had to.
BTW: someone once mentioned that they got an aftermarket cable and it wasn't the right length.
I'm going to look for mine and measure it, then I'll post it here.
 

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Is the setup on your 85 the same as pictured below?
If so I can guide you through the steps.
TRANS-Clutch Cable 1.jpg TRANS-Clutch Cable 2.jpg

The cables break where the "ball" is soldered to the end of the cable where it goes through the clutch fork, I have replaced my clutch cable at least 7 times in 31 years, twice because it broke, the others to get it before it breaks.
Average life for me was about 4 years.
(Mileage means nothing, it all depends on the type of traffic you drive in, how many times you are on/off the clutch)
Before I retired work was 4 miles from home, it took me 20-30 minutes to make that 4 mile trip and I was on/off the clutch anywhere from 100-150 times on that 4 mile trip.
The original has the "ball" soldered/welded while the aftermarket cable will be crimped.
I have one of each left for my car and I am curious how well the "crimped" cable will last.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Yes Jan that is the exact picture in my '85 engine/chassis/body service manual. Mine is barely holding on at the clutch fork by just a couple strands.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Thanks Jan, I already have this ( poly grommet ) on the car. Glad I didn't lose it. Any tips would be appreciated....especially for getting the cable installed on the clutch pedal side.
 

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When you go to install it, take the lever off the splined shaft on the tranny. It is held on with single c/e clip. Don't screw around having to pull cable and feed it through holes while trying to assemble. Fully assemble passing through rubber grommet, then tranny case, through lever, through lever grommet, then retainer. When fully assembled on both ends then replace lever on splined shaft. It only goes on one way.
Remove pedal assembly by also removing one c-clip. Comes out EZ. Note orientation of pedal assembly.
Take a good look at white plastic cable retainer on back side of pedal. Also look at adjoining black plastic fulcrum. They're both famous for stripping. A good indication of plastic letting go is snapping or clunking sound from from pedal when you first depress it. This would be a good item for someone to 3D print. I can't imagine that part has any inventory left at Chrysler.
Todd
 

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I never did all that...^^^^^^
I will tell you how I do it and you choose whichever is easier for you.
To remove the cable from the clutch pedal remove the plate at the top of the pedal, it just sits there, remove the spring from the adjuster assembly, slide the adjuster to the top of the pedal and remove the cable.
To install insert the cable through the firewall and route and secure the cable assembly underhood, slide the adjuster to the top and insert the cable end into the adjuster, reinstall the spring on the adjuster and reinstall the plate.
Using a floor jack raise the clutch fork until you have enough slack to install the cable through and install the grommet.
Push the clutch pedal down and then slightly pull up on it, the cable should be fully adjusted.

My car has a removable knee bolster that makes everything easy to view and easier to get to, IDK what your car has.

If you do not mind could you send me a pic of the aftermarket cable when it arrives, I would like to see the cable ends.
 

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Is the setup on your 85 the same as pictured below?
If so I can guide you through the steps.
View attachment 272356 View attachment 272357

The cables break where the "ball" is soldered to the end of the cable where it goes through the clutch fork, I have replaced my clutch cable at least 7 times in 31 years, twice because it broke, the others to get it before it breaks.
Average life for me was about 4 years.
(Mileage means nothing, it all depends on the type of traffic you drive in, how many times you are on/off the clutch)
Before I retired work was 4 miles from home, it took me 20-30 minutes to make that 4 mile trip and I was on/off the clutch anywhere from 100-150 times on that 4 mile trip.
The original has the "ball" soldered/welded while the aftermarket cable will be crimped.
I have one of each left for my car and I am curious how well the "crimped" cable will last.
This reminds me of NYC traffic.
I went through several cables having owned 5 L-bodies and always in stop and go traffic.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I ordered 2 different brand cables from rockauto and have received them. #1 is ATP part #Y-362 and #2 is pioneer brand part# CA-202. In the next few days I will have the time to replace the broken one and will compare mine to these. As far as quality they seem to be made well but hope they hold up. they look to be crimped on the ends. I have pics.
IMG_2313.JPG
IMG_2320.JPG
 

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Keep us posted.
 

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I ordered 2 different brand cables from rockauto and have received them. #1 is ATP part #Y-362 and #2 is pioneer brand part# CA-202. In the next few days I will have the time to replace the broken one and will compare mine to these. As far as quality they seem to be made well but hope they hold up. they look to be crimped on the ends. I have pics. View attachment 272386 View attachment 272387
Yes those are crimped at both ends.
It's wire rope with sleeve/ball end crimps.
My 87 GLHS #956 would always break at the round plastic "washer-like" end that attached near the firewall.
The cable never broke, just the plastic housing.

I'll check my NOS cable for lengths and post it with a picture by tomorrow.
 

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Mine is Mopar P/N 4377771
Total length is 42-1/2 inches
The clutch fork side looks like yours with the ball end.
The clutch pedal side is different.

These are photos of an NOS Chrysler clutch cable:
272414

272415

272417
 

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Discussion Starter #19
I ended up using the Pioneer brand cable with the TWO ball ends. It's sheathing was more similar to the cable I removed. The length was 42". It took about one hour to install. The under dash part was done by feel. I studied the service manual pic and was able to remove the spring clip from the clutch pedal. I was dreading the cable routing at the clutch pedal but as luck had it when I feed the cable through the firewall it lined itself right up on the adjuster pivot and then I continued to feed it and hook it to the positioner adjuster. I then reinstalled the spring clip on the pedal and that part was done. I then attached the cable to the under hood points and had a working clutch pedal again.
 
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