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Discussion Starter #1
The idea behind this is very easy but getting it done, well not so much. Some are done for reasons to look stock and not cut up your '86 GLHS like building a 525/555 while others are for the advantage of better gearing and using units like the OBX and the Quaife it was derived from.

It has been found, over time that the final drive gearing in the 555 and 568 was no the best when building a light weight or higher powered drag car or street car because the first gear was very short and some found them selves shifting into 5th or bouncing off the rev limiter at the top of 4th gear at the end of the track. A swap from the 3.85's down to a set of 3.50's from and '87 to 91 520, 523 or 543 would stop all this.

To "build" a hybrid you will need two transmissions that are compatible. Chrysler changed the intermediate shaft, 1st, 2nd gears and the 1/2 syncro assembly in 1989 on everything except the L body stick cars which still got a 525 till production ended in 1990 and the 1989 turbo minivan which for some reason still retained the '87/88 555 1/2 gear set and syncro assembly.

I'll use a 525/555 for my demo because I happen to be building one and it was the same hybrid transmission that I started with kind of by accident back in 1990. The first came at the request of a customer at the Dodge dealership I was working at who had a 1986 GLHS that had some decent mods for the time but was breaking 525 transmission gear sets. He bought a low mileage 555 with a broken case from a junkyard and we pulled everything out of it and a good 525 transmission. The original plan was to use the MP 3.87 final drive gears to mimic the 3.85 of the 555 but we mocked everything up with the stock 3.56 gears and it all fit well. He added a moly plate from LRE, a Shelby cam & pawl posi unit and MP diff girdle. Transmission done and installed the drivability was much better with a closer gear ratio spread, no big 2/3 RPM drop caused by the 525/520 gear ratios. This was a great transmission and is still in the car to this day.

So, here's what you need to start with. Pull the gear sets out of both of your transmissions and you can see the difference between the 555 gears and the weaker 525 gears. The 555 have a courser gear tooth and less teeth along with a courser tooth pitch. This makes them a bit nosier that the 525, 520, 523 & 543 transmissions till '92 and stronger.The 555 is on the left, 525 on the right.
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Strip everything off both gear sets so you have the intermediate shaft from the 525 along with the diff carrier and ring gear. From the 555 you will need the input shaft, 1st thru 5th gears. If it's an early 525 use the shift forks from the 555 because they are stronger.

Everything gets disassembled, washed and all old bearings get pulled.
 

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Once you have everything cleaned and ready to go, start assembling everything and install all your new bearings at this time.

It goes back together how it came apart but pay attention to everything. You should have a factory service manual at least and the correct tools to pull and install everything and a selection of shims for setting the input shaft and differential bearing preload.
 

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Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
Once the gear set is done, get all the case parts painted and ready for assembly. Install the input shaft bearing and the intermediate shaft bearing and don't forget the oil slinger that goes in the case or you won't get oil down the intermediate shaft.

Drop the gear set in the case with the shift forks and the arm for 5th gear. Install the reverse idler gear and spacer, the intermediate case cover and the moly plate. Install both the 5th gears and the cover.
 

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OK, with everything installed you need to check and set both the input shaft end play and the differential carrier end play. Both should be about .006 to .010 tight so there is a preload on the bearings, less for used bearings but follow the FSM for all specs.

If your doing a drain plug don't forget to drill and tap it before assembling the transmission.

Transmission finished off and ready to ship. 525/555 with a moly plate, MP diff girdle and a drain plug.

Hope you all enjoy this.

Cliff Ramsdell
 

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I am curious on your thoughts of a solid tranny for these cars. The rebuilt 1200.00 tranny just broke in the driveway, loose clutch cable jumped in reverse and something snapped. I don't want to do this twice. Believe a 555 is currently installed, had a choice of final drive took the 3.85, 1st now sucks only good for parking. The car actually ran slower to busy switchin gears. Best case for build, girdle still available, axles?
 

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Hi Cliff I would like to talk to you about building hybrid trans for circle track racing. We only use one gear. In the old days we would take the gears out of trans to save on spinning weight. v8 cars Bluiding an outlaw 4cyl car. Sure would like your thoughts. THANKS
 

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getn read 2 start one of these homoginizations if u will on my sons car . thanks 4 posting this it will come in handy . question though the 568 trans is suposed 2 b a stronger trans the the 555 . Why not work with that instead ?
 

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and the moly plate. Install both the 5th gears and the cover.
Do you have a supplier & part number for the moly plate? I've been digging around this forum and have seen it mentioned a few times, yet no specifics on where to buy one. (Mine is bent)

My car is a stock '89 Daytona ES turbo T-Top car with a 520 trans.

Thanks!

BILL
 

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Do you have a supplier & part number for the moly plate? I've been digging around this forum and have seen it mentioned a few times, yet no specifics on where to buy one. (Mine is bent)

My car is a stock '89 Daytona ES turbo T-Top car with a 520 trans.

Thanks!

BILL
Both Omni Potent and FWD sell moly bearing plates.


OMNI-Potent Parts, LLC Product Detail


FWD: ?????????
 

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the pricing is way outdated for the kits from that place though, you gotta watch how much they charge you for the stuff in the end, because whats listed on that website isn't what they end up charging you.
 

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+1 on what rippinturbo had to say about their pricing. I ordered a set and when he called to tell me what he had the price was $125 more than listed on the site, then they shipped me the wrong year/synchro set...which he didnt have in stock and trying to determine the value of the synchros for a refund was a cat-n-mouse game of lets make a deal. He wanted to tell me the price on the site for just synchros was correct.
 

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Here is a link to the bearings needed:

http://www.turbododge.com/forums/f11/f40/106867-alternate-parts-thread-oem-aftermarket-post-4.html#post2884802

And the actual lit:

Parts for rebuilding A525, A520, A555 (maybe others)

BEARINGS
The following bearing numbers are BCA #'s:

*Input shaft BCA A4 and BCA A5 (1 EACH) COMES WITH RACES
*Differential BCA A18 (NEED 2)
*Intermediate shaft INNER BEARING THAT PRESSES INTO CASE; BCA 5707, Koyo RNO70618-6, Mopar 4202590, Torrington DB-67309 (1 needed)
*Outer intermediate shaft bearing, Mopar #4348 270

SEALS
*axle seals mopar #4412 522 or AdvanceAutoParts #3459
*Input shaft seal Mopar #5222 721 or NAPA #NOS10583

SHIMS
*Input shaft shims for setting preload are available from ratech #1132
*Diff shims are available from transpartsusa: sonnax #39539z5
 

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I had Cliff build one of these for me years ago.
I'm not sure if he builds transmissions any longer though.

Does anyone have links to reliable builders who do this hybrid setup?
 

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I had Cliff build one of these for me years ago.
I'm not sure if he builds transmissions any longer though.

Does anyone have links to reliable builders who do this hybrid setup?
i build the hybrids as well as the regular trannys.:thumb:
 

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Here is a link to the bearings needed:

http://www.turbododge.com/forums/f11/f40/106867-alternate-parts-thread-oem-aftermarket-post-4.html#post2884802

And the actual lit:

Parts for rebuilding A525, A520, A555 (maybe others)

BEARINGS
The following bearing numbers are BCA #'s:

*Input shaft BCA A4 and BCA A5 (1 EACH) COMES WITH RACES
*Differential BCA A18 (NEED 2)
*Intermediate shaft INNER BEARING THAT PRESSES INTO CASE; BCA 5707, Koyo RNO70618-6, Mopar 4202590, Torrington DB-67309 (1 needed)
*Outer intermediate shaft bearing, Mopar #4348 270

SEALS
*axle seals mopar #4412 522 or AdvanceAutoParts #3459
*Input shaft seal Mopar #5222 721 or NAPA #NOS10583

SHIMS
*Input shaft shims for setting preload are available from ratech #1132
*Diff shims are available from transpartsusa: sonnax #39539z5

That Koyo bearing referenced above should have been RNU070618-6
Also note that the BCA5707 is a 'will fit' substitute that is actually a bit thinner and not as durable as the Koyo, I strongly suggest you use the Koyo bearing whenever possible
 
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