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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello all and thanks for taking the time to look and help. First of all please keep in mind that I am fairly new to my car and have not dealt with turbo for over 13 years so go easy on me. With that said here is a link to a page containing the specs for my car
http://www.turbododge.com/forums/f1/f26/155704-whats-worth.html
My questions are; The specs say there is a Turbos Unleashed 2 Stage GLHS Computer, is this the same as their stage II computer on their website? If so the discription says that this computer ups the boost to 14psi, but my car is running @ 20psi is this normal and what would cause me to be @ 20 not 14? Also I think I may be in need of a new computer and was wondering what would be the best computer to go with, I was thinking about the stage 4 from FWD any input? Also I was wondering, the price on FWD says 125.00 and be side that says 75.00 core. Does this mean the price is 200.00 and when they get my core they reimberse me 75.00? I know I could ask on their site but I figured asking here would make only one place for me to find my answers.
Thanks
Mike
 

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90 Daytona Shelby, 96 Jeep XJ, '13 300C
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Yes, you pay $200 for the computer and when you send them the core they refund the $75.

As for the computer, I would guess your car has the MP Stage II LM. If you're boosting 20 then it means you have a manual controller or a bleed of some sort under the hood and the computer is no longer in control of the boost.
 

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Perhaps see if you can just buy a chip from them and swap it out yourself if the computer is socketed. No core no hassels. why do you want to swap out the cals?

TU had a real nice tune from what I have heard, but they took peoples money and held it for a year promising cals plus never delivered on some cals. So I would say fwd for sure if you need a new cal.
 

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sounds like you need to go through all the vac lines and grease the computer pins. Get the thing to run right stock without over boosting first. Many new cars run over 18 PSI stock, the 2.2 / 2.5 with a few changes have no problem with it either. Then when the thing runs right you can simply add the FWD stage 5 with +20s and a 3 bar map if you stay closer to stock with the engine. Then if you decide a lot more mods then go with +40s. But at least get it running right first. The other option that is easy is the FWD stage 3 for the GLHS, bolt in 15 PSI computer if that is truely the problem. Fault codes?
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
The car is throwing code 15. This is during wot. The car pulls fine until it hits 4000rpm. The car worked fine up until this started. At one point the car stalled from idle, before it stalled I was test driving it and as I drove it the car started to try to die at lights, I had to hold down throtle to keep car from dieing. The first time the car started acting up when I shut it off it took alot of tries to get it to start. It just kept turning over and over.
 

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90 Daytona Shelby, 96 Jeep XJ, '13 300C
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15 is for the speed sensor in the trans. It has nothing to do with the car sputtering/dying.

Have you checked your plugs for signs of what the engine is doing? Fuel pressure? Vacuum system?

It could be the cal, but I'd check the fuel pressure first. Sounds like a dying pump to me.
 
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