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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Ok so I did a timing belt and power steering pump change on my 87 Daytona Shelby and now the car won't start. It cranks and when i keep the accel down (fuel cutoff) i can hear pops while cranking. I have both fuel and spark but still nothing. The motor just turns and tries to start but it doesn't. Timing was double checked and it's bang on. I replaced plugs, wires, distrib cap and rotor. I also replaced the ignition coil and checked the hall effect. All the electrical connectors are plugged in all the way and everything looks good. In order to change the timing belt I had to remove the alternator, crankshaft and water pump pulleys and the AC bracket (no AC). Everything is back on like it should.

Please give me a few ideas. I'm stumped and I don't know what else to do.
 

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This a stick or automatic?

I know on my automatic I had to make sure the convertor was lined up right and not 180' off from where it needs to be - this might be causing a problem.
 

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I am not trying to insult everyone, but I've seen this on internet forums all over the place where they say the cam timing is dead on and they triple checked it blah blah blah and it still turns out to be not right.

An engine needs fuel, compression, and spark at the right time in order to run. You say that you have fuel and spark, and if you are correct here, the things we need to verify is that the spark is occuring at the right time and we have sufficient cylinder compression.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
The car is a Shelby, so 5spd. Like I said again, timing is good. I checked all the disconnected wires.
 

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How are you verifying the timing? There are a couple marks on the flywheel (verify cylinder #1 is TDC). If you are using the marks on the sprockets, someone may have installed an oil pump and rotated the intermediate shaft rendering the mark useless.

Here is how I verify my timing in less than ten minutes: Verify that #1 is TDC and the mark on flywheel is at zero........Then pull the distributor cap and line the rotor up with the oil return gallery (pointing towards number one cylinder) ridge in the cylinder head (you should be able to stand on the passenger side of the vehicle looking from above the valve cover and see how the rotor lines up with the oil return gallery ridge in the head. Finally on the cam sprocket, make sure that the hole is pointing up and center the cam bearing cap lines with the two larger holes in the cam sprocket (you should be able to take a small flat blade screw driver to each of the holes in the cam sprocket and feel the ridge on the cam cap centered in both side holes.

If things aren't lining up, you can remove the cam sprocket to make any belt adjustments, and then realign the cam and reinstall the sprocket.

I'll take pictures of this easy procedure soon as I have to install a belt tensioner in my brothers Shelby Z.
 

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The car is a Shelby, so 5spd. Like I said again, timing is good. I checked all the disconnected wires.
Not meaning to insult you here, but I bet the timing is OFF. Did you set the timing using the Elongated slot on the Oil pump Shaft? That is WRONG. You need to look very close at the outside rim for a very faint mark to set the timing. See Fig. 11 here: 2.5 Timing Marks 1.jpg photo - Ralph Scott photos at pbase.com
See Fig. 12 for cam gear alignment. 2.5 Timing Marks 2.jpg photo - Ralph Scott photos at pbase.com That one is probably correct.
Good Luck.
 

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Line the marks up on the cam and crank then pull the distributer cap and verify that the rotor is lined up with #1 cyl
 
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