When the timing marks are all correct, the rotor should be pointed towards #1, about 12 degrees advanced. If you have the cam timed correctly, or even close, the car should run. It sounds to me that the distributor is 180 degrees off. I have a couple engines that have the intermediate shaft timing markings 180 off because the distributor isn't in correctly.
If Jckrieger's suggestion doesn't work try this.
Line the engine up TDC .... remove the cam sprocket w/timing belt attached.
Have a helper take the cam sprocket and slip it back on the cam w/o the timing belt.
(Hold the belt taunt it doesn't move of course)
Have the helper turn the cam and sprocket 180*.
Hold the timing belt close to the cam sprocket so you can orient a tooth and mark it.
Slip the sprocket off the cam and replace the timing belt in the marked groove.
Put the cam sprocket back on the cam. .... start the engine.
You know, now that I think about it, did you remember to align the oil pump gear with the intermediate shaft properly? If you installed a new oil pump, I think with the timing belt and all shafts at TDC, the slot should be parallel with the crankshaft. If you didn't align the oil pump, then you won't necessairly be 180 off, you could be 70 degrees off or something.
Something kinda dumb to check after you've driven yourself nut's quadruple checking the entire timing set up.
Throw a compression tester on there and see if your actually getting any when the engine is cranking. I know a little oil in the cyl.'s was all that was needed a few times for me either after a full rebuild or having the head off for a while. The cyl. walls are just too clean. I know how crazy one can get when you have fuel and spark and you swear the timing is correct. This has done the trick for me more than once.
LMAO.... Ken, you can blame this on Brian.... well almost! He took off the distributor and the oil pump and realigned it. Well he was off. That has resulted in me having to rotate the intermediate shaft a few teeth to align up the distributor since the base wouldnt rotate enough. However that didnt work, so I cant blame everything on him.
When I get off of work, I am redoing the entire timing and then giving it a try. I had sprayed some oil into the cylinders after the engine was completely put together to keep the rings 'moist'. We shall see! I will let everyone know!
I found that my pan is leaking at one point... or it could be the front seal.... but I dont care... it runs!!! I pulled almost 2psi of boost at idle. could hear the chattering of the RFL BOV... LMAO!!! Neighbors were looking at me while standing around socializing about how a new lot was cleared.
yeah she was turned way down, I don't remember if I turned it down further to limp it home after I burnt a piston, or what.. It was set to like 12-15psi last time I drove it.. I could never get it to build much brake standing it..
Well I figured out why I couldn't build boost. It wasn't because I blew off an intercooler hose at the bottom. Well it slipped off. The grainger was set around 3-4psi. I since have adjusted the grainger to somewhere around 12psi.
Man it hauls. I have only made two runs to seat the rings, so I will get a better grasp of what is going on once it is legal on the road. I need a muffler.... Magnaflow?????
A forum community dedicated to Turbo Dodge owners and enthusiasts. Come join the discussion about Shelbys, Daytonas, Chargers, Omnis, SRT-4, performance, modifications, troubleshooting, maintenance, and info about all Mopars!