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Discussion Starter #1
This might be a dumb question, but is there any easy way to change the redline?

part of my stradedgy for keeping the car alive longer in races is to get drivers to keep the car under 5k rpm, but some of them like to ignore that request :rolleyes:

So is there any easy way to change the redline?
 

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I've pushed them up never down are u refuting to an auto or stick? Can play with gear ratio.. Better excel less mph to shift but don't think it changes the rev limiter. Maybe reprogram most don't get their peek hp till around 5k 53k tho.
If I remember right
 

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Discussion Starter #3
It's a manual. 89 daytona shelby.

i want the rev limiter down. I don't care if that means we don't get peak power, this is an endurance race, not a speed race, and you don't win by blowing up your engine.
 

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The redline is changeable by upgrading your car but ill stop there because i think you mean rev limiter. Which requires you to send in your computer to be re calibrated.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
yea, i was implying rev limiter, it's been a long day.

So it is possible, if i decide it's worth it.
 

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or set you up with a flashable SMEC so you can do it yourself. Then you can set it to whatever you want whenever you want.
 

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Why play with electronics, if all you want to do is stay at 5000 rpms or below just device and adjustable mechanical throttle stop.
BTW you do not hit max HP until 5400 and when I was racing I was hitting the stripe at 6100 rpm in 3rd gear and still pulling.
I totally trust my Mobil 1 and have for 22 years.
 

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because then you're not getting full power up to the limit you want to stop at. It's also going to be different depending on gear load. a mecahnical stop won't limit you to 5000rpms either. It's also not drag racing 15 seconds at a time. Endurance racing is much harder on things than just a quick jaunt up to speed.
 

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first off the T2 engine will live all day long at 6,000 RPM

second bouncing off the rev limiter with a TURBO ENGINE is CRAZY. The T2 engine will survive jolts to 7,000 RPM on quik shifts even. Bounce off the rev limiter POUNDING the pistons with boost will break the ring lands off. We around here hit the over boost limiter, not a lot different than the rev limiter, and we break a LOT of pistons doing it. It also finishs off head gaskets too.

I would buy the eagle rod and JE piston combo dropping the bob weight a ton and add ARP studs and let them rev it all they want before pounding the pistons to death with a rev limiter.

Throttle based RPM controls don't work unless at one load and one throttle level. High load under 5,000 requires more throttle and boost than the limiter would allow.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
first off the T2 engine will live all day long at 6,000 RPM
Not at Lemons it won't. Trust me. You need to forget everything you know about street reliability before planning for lemons. There has NEVER been a reliable 2.2/2.5 run at lemons, I'm trying to be the first. Endurance racing is completely different from street, drag, and even track days.

Honestly, i want to avoid max power. the easier i can go on these engines the better off we are. We can't be dropping huge money on building an engine. Lemons has a dollar limit on what you can spend on the car. I have about $400 to prep for october, and with that i need to get one GOOD motor built, one spare built, and a third ready just in case. So i can't be buying ARP everything, stronger rods/pistons, etc.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
also, user programable would probably be the way to go for us. currently my engine line up looks like:

'89 2.2 Turbo II
'88 2.2 Turbo II
'89 2.5 Turbo I

The '89 2.2 is toast after this past race. The crank was done when we went in, but i put new bearings in it assuming we'd get no more than 4 hours out of it, and did just that. We're going to have to replace that engine.

the point i'm trying to make though, is that being able to adjust for the different engines will probably help us make each last longer.
 

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I like to do Vegas from Spokane trip, 1150 miles in 1 day in 13 hours total. The Jackpot to my grand parrents is done in 5 hours flat, 3 stops for fuel, 20 minutes through vegas 30 minutes for lunch. 547 miles between Vegas and Jackpot averaging 115 MPH at 7 PSI of boost loaded down with 4 people and the AC going. I would say that is pretty good for endurance, not floored the whole way I suppose. But I've done this trip many times. Once we did the 5 hour trip with a mini van in our group, youngin was running 5,500 RPM with a 2.5 for 400 straight miles lol. I took a 85 GLH that sat for 7 years out of a creek and added a new tank and fuel pump and made the trip in 13 hours. Was going to take it easy in that car but with a stuck injector I had to stay in boost lol.

Things I do, the 2.2 has a horrible water pump housing and the common block needs a diverter. So I port the housing and on a later engine add the diverter. I also do my own turbo lines for $55, in the FAQ section. Then PTs, a $70 mod that is a must for high RPM reliability so windage won't make you spit a follower. Porting the oil pump feed hole is huge and doesn't require a bunch of money. Then comes getting an oil cooler, the sandwhich kind off a 2.7 for instance or Ford 2.3 turbo. I also add a fuel cooler, keeps the rail and injectors cool and I use a mini van trans cooler for that.

Once I broke my engine adding a new turbo, stone stock 88 T1 short block. Took the ring lands off one piston. Then drove to Vegas anyway and back, got the car in the 04 Jan Mopar Muscle mag, the dyno Challenge and did 204 WHP at 13 PSI on 3 pistons lol.

Cast cranks absorb impact from detonation better than steel cranks that squash bearings, a fuel cooler and oil cooler helps this. But the LW rod T1 engine may take more abuse with a cheap build. The steel crank engine is a better engine if new, a sad shape one? Not likely. Stay non balance shaft 2.2, 2.5s have a rotten rod ratio for continous high RPM.

So I do believe that my drag racing and auto cross doesn't count, even short track days. But the abuse my cars see on the highway I doubt is that much softer. After watching the lemons I think I'd want a NA GLH or Shelby Charger with HO 2.2, not a turbo car. Running a carb with the money spent is more wise, sensors and FI resto is expensive with any car for racing like that. Endurance demo derby lol
 

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Discussion Starter #15
i won't argue that you've abused the cars, but it is a different abuse. With the exception of the straight at NHMS, you are rarely over 50mph, so you are not getting a ton of air to the engine bay, which means you are at a higher overheating risk. Plus you are varying the load on the engine constantly. 115 on the highway will be a constant load that is not actually that high. running around NHMS you are constantly varying the load as you climb the hill and out of the bowl.

i appreciate the tips though, i'll keep them all in mind as i rebuild for october.

I'm going to keep the turbo, the judges love our car because it is so unreliable. If i can get through a whole race with a turbo'd engine i have a chance of winning the IOE award for the race.


Lemons just has this weird inverse reliability curve when compared to everything else. Hondas blow up a lot, and alfa romeos seem to be strangely reliable.
 

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My car to run like that didn't have most of what I mentioned BTW, just the fuel cooler as my car liked to eat pistons with the MP stage 2. But those mods to cooling and oiling will change how it runs long distances.

I would also buy an oil accumulator, a lot of italian cars come with them, they hold a quart or so in them under pressure and if you lose oil pressure in a corner they bleed that pressure into the oil gallery. A couple on Ebay now for $40, $85 new with Summitracing. Add this to the turbo feed line block
 

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Discussion Starter #17
that is actually an awesome idea, i've never heard of them. Thanks.

Our other fun challenge, we're only allowed to run straight water for coolant, no additives at all.

my list of things to do for october includes

- oil cooler
- very much more air to the radiator through front end modifications
- oil accumulator
- relocate heater core to roof
- User programmable computer
- limited boost
 

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Throw a smaller exhaust weal on the turbo plan with it timing . But all the power in low Rpm s . Then do what is in the last post. U will then not need as much pettle to the floor. And ul wana shift early cus like he said no power but. At least this way u won't be naglecting the power up top I'll be pushing the curve lower so u can still use it.
And shift early still.
Like the oil gall ima get one.

And yes make an inclosure for the rad and ic in the bumber. and a under the car frame air scoop that will pull air from under just behind the bumber. Depending on ride hight u can drop the scoop the be equal tu the oil pan or lower and then direct the scoop to the bottom of ur rad and ic. And that would make a rectanguleg shape that would in close ur number for a more forcefully air to rad and ic . . Also I tolk old head stud washers and put them between the hood and back brakets. Two washers for the wholse bye windeshield. One washer between the bracket over the whole closest to the front of the hood. This opens up the gap from the cowl and allows engain heat to rush out the back. And gives a bearer look to the slant of the hood. :)
 

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can't just throw a smaller exhaust wheel in it. A stock garrett has the smallest wheel you can put in a T3.


Tryingbe that's a good idea bout lowering the boost above a certain rpm.


Also I'd look into a crank scraper. And if not Shelby used to run 6qts of oil in the pan road racing the GLHS' and other 2.2's. Sure the windage is a killer but the cars lived.
 
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