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Discussion Starter #41
Sorry the data tables didn't post correctly, it lost the simple character space formating.
DDBob.
 

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1)None of your compression numbers are low.
2)If you have a leak at an exhaust valve you would hear air escaping from the exhaust at the tailpipe.
3)There is no proof that Seafoam or any other add to tank fuel system cleaner actually works or does what it states it will do.
I did major research on this and most chemical companies would not answer my inquires or answered with company propaganda.
The majority of the detergent chemicals that are in fuel system cleaners are already found in gasoline.
The only types of cleaners I recommend and know that they actually work are direct fuel injector cleaning systems if done properly.
4)Air in the radiator from cylinder #1 is a headgasket issue at the water jacket which is common and it does not take much to create that issue.
Head Gasket (B) 9-11-16.jpg
Chances are that the head and deck surface are fine since there are no driveabilty issues and you did not overheat.
No more than .005 using a straightedge and feeler gauge.
 

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DDB, Don't feel bad, I have not one but two headgaskets to change out in my TD's in my near future. Pull the head off and have the head checked out. Worst case scenario $300-400 valve job, some gaskets, set of headbolts, and you should be good to go again. If the head has 100K+ miles on it, that alone should verify the expense of getting valve job done. I probably have all kinds of stock valves should you need one or two. I usually throw them out, from all the head porting I do, but always seem to have some around. They seem to multiply in the garage like tribbles (lol).
 

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3)There is no proof that Seafoam or any other add to tank fuel system cleaner actually works or does what it states it will do.
I also question such claims, most are snake oil but Seafoam did help my 87 Sundance DD...Significantly.
My car sat in storage on blocks from 2002 to 2012 as I had a company car. Since the storage the car had a significant amount of blow by even at idle, every week I need to add 1/3 to 1/2 L of Mobil 1 to top up.
So I was watching a Video by "Project Farm" who has excellent scientific designs in his test. I seen on his video on how Seafoam helped his truck and though what do I have to lose other than $10.
Over the 2017-18 Winter I placed Seafoam in the engine oil (left in for the winter) and Seafoam in the gas for two tank fulls. my post hydrolock

After the treatment, the engine had reduced blow by and oil top up now occur every 4-6 weeks. I also had a modest increase in gas mileage since the early 2018 treatment. Did it help? Yes in my case but I say it is not magic....I don't believe that Seafoam in the gas did anything useful but it was only a few bucks...
 

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Discussion Starter #45
Had to take many days away from the Daytona to work on other projects.
First thought was to just get rid of it but then took another look so now have a few questions. I'm going to sell it anyway but wouldn't feel right about selling it as is.
1) Is head removal possible while leaving the turbo, intake & exhaust manifolds attached?
If not removable I won't even attempt the repair. If so, although it'd be heavy, this seems a fairly straight forward job. Any tips?
2) What gasket set do you recommend?
RockAuto has FEL-PRO, Mahle, AJUSA, and APEX. I'd also replace the head bolts with ARP and the nuts and studs.
3) What head sealer material do you recommend?
Assume kits include sealer but often kits use less than optimal products.

As always I really appreciate your help. Manuals often just don't provide full details.
DDBob.
 

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You have to remove the head with the manifolds and turbo attached and reinstall that way, I was able to lay the turbo in place in the engine bay and install it afterwards, just have to be able to get your hands in there.
I have not had any issues with Fel-Pro and I do not use any dealer on Perma-Torque gaskets, some people use Permatex Copper Seal.
 

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...I'd also replace the head bolts with ARP and the nuts and studs....
DDBob.
Just a little heads up, the ARP head bolts for our application is not a direct bolt-in. They are too long. If you buy them, compare your old head bolts to the new ARP ones. You will either need to use a second head bolt washer used as a spacer, or tap the block with a bottoming tap. Tap size is 11x1.5mm. Don't do this and your ARP head bolts will bottom out in the block instead of clamping the head down.
Heads studs from ARP will work as a bolt-in. Earlier versions used a necked down undercut stud.
 

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Discussion Starter #48
Thanks for the heads up, I'll be sure to check before installing. I decided to skip the ARPs. My brother the mechanic gets a discount from NAPA & couldn't say no to $20 for a quality set plus $4 for washers. If any tips before I start next week please share. It seems straightforward other than the sheer weight while lifting the head, intake, exhaust & turbo. I'm thinking crawling into the engine bay, left foot on the alternator, right on the transmission, butt on the radiator, lift & wiggle it free. I've been told taking the hood off makes it easier but I'm skeptical because I'd have to align it on re-installation & that could take a long time.
Stay safe, DDBob.
 

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We used an engine hoist to lift and remove the head/manifolds/turbo assembly.
It was much easier to install the head without the turbo installed.
I laid the turbo in position in the engine bay and installed it back on the head after the head was installed.
 

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Discussion Starter #50
All the parts won't be here until next Friday so I'm trying to prepare. Not thrilled about attempting to remove & install this as it looks like about 75lbs of gear. Do you think 2 people could lift everything or is a hoist required?
About bolting on the turbo after the head & manifolds are installed. I don't see how this can be done from above. Do you do it from under the car? Does it require special tools?

DDBob.
 

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I was able to get the turbo on from underneath and could get both bottom nuts on from underneath, I was able to get the top nuts from the top, probably took longer than with the turbo already on but we struggled to get the head back on and in position the first time I had to replace the HG with the turbo on, it is the heaviest part and always wants to fall in that direction even with a hoist.
If you chase the threads on the drugs and chase the threads on the nuts they will go on easily by hand.
Do not remember exactly what I used to tighten the nuts.
Trying to lift the head with the weight of the turbo without a hoist could prove to be difficult since you would have no way to hold it in place when you remove all of the headbolts.
Maybe others with more experience have better/easier methods, I can only tell you what I have learned the 3 times I had to remove the head on my car.
FYI...
Check your firewall for any sheet metal screws coming through from the interior, if there are any place a rubber vacuum cap over the sharp end so you do not slice yourself reaching your hands in there, ask me how I know.
 
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