[nodleblue]

Good evening.
I am going to install new bearings for the oil pump/intermediate shaft on my chrysler 2.2 block. I need to know the direction of the larger outer bearing because there are two lines off of the oil feed holes inside the bearing. Here's the pic. Do I need the lines towards the out side direction of the block or towards the inside of the block? Thanks for the help!

 

[Capt W]

Did this last year with my 2.5 and had the same question. Can't remember where I finally got the answer (FSM doesn't say), but I installed with the lines facing out in order to ensure a bit of oil flow into the seal retainer and onto the seal. No issues. FWIW I froze both of the new bearings overnight before installing and they basically walked into place and were very easy to position.

 

[Glhs60]

Note:
Some generic gasket sets include a gasket for the int. shaft seal retainer.

The factory never had a gasket there as it was sealed with anaerobic.

Sometimes Engines develop a knocking noise with the gasket in place.

The gasket allowed the int. shaft to walk, resulting in the strange knock.

Thanks
Randy

 

[Capt W]

Good call, Randy.

My kit came with the gasket, which I pitched in favor of Permatex anaerobic gasket maker.

 

[Glhs60]

Right on !!

You done good.

Thanks
Randy

 

[nodleblue]

As always, thank you for all the help! I really appreciate it. Is there a place I can get the guide piece(the aluminum block between the crank gear and auxiliary shaft gear) and also the crankshaft bolt and woodruff key for the crankshaft? My new build needs it. And again, thank you.

 

[Capt W]

Nodle,

Are you talking about the timing belt shield (Number 9 below)? If so that's part number 5214636. I'm sure Marty will reply, as he shows 4 in stock.

The woodruff keys are p/n 6500150. Widely available - check eBay, etc.

The crank bolt can differ depending on the year. What have you got?

 

[nodleblue]

Thanks for the reply Capt W. Part number 9 would be what I am looking for. I will check on eBay for the key also.
I have a STEEL crankshaft from Standard company part number 13690. Not sure the year, but putting into an '87 2.2 turbo block. I really appreciate the replies and help. It's been awhile since I worked on the 2.2s so my memory is a little faded from part numbers.

 

[Capt W]

No worries. Your crank bolt should be a 6502976:

2001 - 2011 Hex Flange Head Screw Factory Mopar Chrysler Dodge Jeep - NEW OEM | eBay

Hex Flange Head Screw - Factory Mopar! Fits 2001 - 2003 Chrysler Voyager. Fits 2001 - 2010 Chrysler Town and Country. Fits 2007 - 2011 Jeep Wrangler. Fits 2001 - 2007 Dodge Caravan. Fits 2001 - 2010 Dodge Grand Caravan.

www.ebay.com

Don't forget about the beefy washer behind that crank bolt. It's a 6500431, but I believe any hardened washer of the correct ID/OD and thickness will be fine.

 

[4 L-bodies]

Well lets hope you bought an early style crank and not a CB crank. CB cranks aren't going to work in your early block. Let hope your crank is like the one on the right, and not like the CB one
on the left.

 

[Glhs60]

Right as usual Todd !!

We're mostly here to assist other 2.2/2.5 enthusiasts.

1989 and newer cranks aren't a direct fit for 1988 and older Engines.

13690 isn't a Chrysler #, possibly the jobbers stock # ??

Attached is a Chrysler casting number guide.

Thanks
Randy

PS: Sorry, the guide I posted has errors!!

mopar casting numbers

Chrysler .

www.mopar1.us

 

[nodleblue]

Ah I see. Good catch. Here is the casting number. I will check the guide. I know my block says '87 for the date. And the block casting is 4343834-12. Thanks a bunch. Looking forward to your replies!

 

[glrcng]

nodoleblue,

I tried to respond to your "Timing Belt Cover Wanted" thread, but it said I did not have the proper privileges to respond for some reason on that thread.

I have 1 available that was removed from my 1984 Dodge Daytona 2.2L/135 Ci single point TBI (Non-Turbo), car if you absolutely need it now instead of September. I have pics if interested, it is of course not in new condition, but the bolting points are all complete, it will clean up well (a heating with a heat gun, or set it in the summer sun, allow it to get good and warm, then install both top and bottom pcs, and it will of course take a new set and fit right). It has been off the car since 1994 and in a box in my garage.

Also, the center large lower left soft 2" plastic grommet where I am sure the PS belt rubbed that area in the pic lower left long ago, can simply be popped out by hand & replaced if needed with an easy to find cheap 2" plastic Floor pan drain plug (I just found 1 brand new still in the pkg of 5 I purchased a month ago), sitting on my current build parts table I will also

include, then you can pop out the old 1, trim a 3/4" hole out of the center with an exacto knife blade, and push it in. Will see if my pics post up here.

$65.00 plus the actual shipping cost, I am in Northwest. AZ here (it is not heavy and can get it in a small box well protected after I pull the 1 bolt that attaches top pc to bottom, I take Paypal), or I can even list it on ebay and forward you the buy it now auction listing (to an e-mail address), if you wanted it done other than direct to you buying/shipping. That would be up to you.

Let me know if that is the right part (Part numbers are on the pics-up close upper/lower and the lower shows the 2 pc full assembly part # below the lower part #), and if you want it, drop me a zip code, and I will find out the shipping and we can get it to you asap. (I have more of the under hood plastics if needed).