[acannell]

90 daytona 2.5

it does not have an air charge temp sensor

my stage 3 computer would really like one

i dont want to take the head off or the intake manifold off

problem is if i drill the hole there will be little aluminum shards inside the intake manifold, PROLLY NOT A GOOD IDEA

hmmm...any genius black art mechanic tricks around this?

i was thinking i could put the sensor where the main vacuum port for the fuel pressure regulator, map sensor, etc.. are and then connect all those vacuum lines to the brake booster vacuum port instead

 

[Sittn86]

I think some guys have just tied it to the harness w/out any problems.

 

[tryingbe]

Take the throttle body off and drill and tape right there at the intake manifold?

 

[acannell]

oooh good one!

i wonder if its location matters much...probably not?

 

[19omni87]

take the brake booster elbow out of the back of the manifold put it there and tee the brake booster port off likethe main vacuum port figure that might work good they shouldboth me 3/8 npt anyway

 

[detobias]

Take the throttle body off and drill and tape right there at the intake manifold?

this is a good idea since you could stuff a greasy rag into the intake mani neck past where you are drilling & tapping, then after you are done tapping, vacuum out the area, spray it all down with some WD40, and when you pull the rag out you should be able to capture any stray shavings

or as mentioned you could put a vacuum block in one of the two already tapped holes, run all the vac lines from that, and put the CAT into the other

I would put the vac block where the brake booster line is (would be cleaner and you could conceal most of the lines) and the CAT in the existing vac tap (would be close to where the factory CAT is mounted)

 

[Miss89baron]

this is a good idea since you could stuff a greasy rag into the intake mani neck past where you are drilling & tapping, then after you are done tapping, vacuum out the area, spray it all down with some WD40, and when you pull the rag out you should be able to capture any stray shavings

or as mentioned you could put a vacuum block in one of the two already tapped holes, run all the vac lines from that, and put the CAT into the other

I would put the vac block where the brake booster line is (would be cleaner and you could conceal most of the lines) and the CAT in the existing vac tap (would be close to where the factory CAT is mounted)

Whats bad about just welding a bung in the inlet pipe to the TB. Can't be that much temp difference in a few inches and eliminates all the hassle.

 

[detobias]

Whats bad about just welding a bung in the inlet pipe to the TB. Can't be that much temp difference in a few inches and eliminates all the hassle.

true, this would be WAY easier, and could be done cleanly ; wont be stock, and the CAT wiring would have to be lengthened

altho I have noticed my intake mani gets Way Too Hot to even put my hand on .. so the temp difference may be more than a few degrees

I have also heard that the TII cals only use the CAT for open-loop cold start - not closed loop or WOT !? but I cant confirm that

 

[Miss89baron]

true, this would be WAY easier, and could be done cleanly ; wont be stock, and the CAT wiring would have to be lengthened

altho I have noticed my intake mani gets Way Too Hot to even put my hand on .. so the temp difference may be more than a few degrees

I have also heard that the TII cals only use the CAT for open-loop cold start - not closed loop or WOT !? but I cant confirm that

The mani temp may just be more heat transfer from the head throuh the runners and not as indicitive of true air temp moving at 300 cfm. A few degrees proly won't make a big diff in the fuel curve. I think your right on the calcs at WOT, I heard that was preset in the calcs for the fuel and spark regardless of temp. Mine is set at the 6:00 position right before the TB and have not noticed any problems, but I've never moved it either.

 

[crazymadbastard]

I removed the vacuum nipple right above the injectors (right next to where the charge air is supposed to go) threads right in. The way I understand it works is that when it senses cooler air it adds timing. If you leave it off it will cost you some hp but not loose it. Probably safer without :shrug:

 

[detobias]

The mani temp may just be more heat transfer from the head throuh the runners and not as indicitive of true air temp moving at 300 cfm. A few degrees proly won't make a big diff in the fuel curve.

I agree

altho we don't KNOW how much the air does heat up pasing thru the hot intake mani.. it's probably a small enough amount to support the theory that the CAT positioning isn't *critical*

 

[88jbody]

In gm the IAT sensor is usually in the air filter box or located next to the MAF, so putting it just before the throttle body should be fine.

 

[ZachT]

do the 2 piece intake manifolds have a stock charge air temperature sensor? i have a stock T2 1 piece on my car now (with CAT next to my vaccum block), how much of a swap is the 2 piece?

 

[tryingbe]

do the 2 piece intake manifolds have a stock charge air temperature sensor? i have a stock T2 1 piece on my car now (with CAT next to my vaccum block), how much of a swap is the 2 piece?

2 piece intake manifold was used in a TII application. ALL TII intake manifold comes the air temperature sensor.

To swap the intake manifold, you're going have to take out the head or the engine.

 

[tkelly27]

In gm the IAT sensor is usually in the air filter box or located next to the MAF, so putting it just before the throttle body should be fine.

Before the throttle body is fine, but not because of that. The GM uses the IAT in conjunction with the mass flow sensor to gauge how much air is entering the engine. The IAT must be near the MAF for it to work properly, TD's are speed density. I've also read that at WOT the IAT is ignored.

 

[Sittn86]

Pretty sure the O2 is the only one that is ignored.

 

[detobias]

^ huh ?

To swap the intake manifold, you're going have to take out the head or the engine.

well you dont *have to* remove the head to swap intake manis , BUT it is a LOT easier with the head off

with the head on it is certainly possible but it is difficult ; it will help if you have small hands, patience, and a 10mm "flex-head" socket is a very nice tool for the tight spots

 

[crazymadbastard]

^ huh ?



well you dont *have to* remove the head to swap intake manis , BUT it is a LOT easier with the head off

with the head on it is certainly possible but it is difficult ; it will help if you have small hands, patience, and a 10mm "flex-head" socket is a very nice tool for the tight spots

Either all that or just remove the rest of the car from the head.