Anybody here know a lot about the heat / a/c controls for a 1987 Daytona? My buddy's Shelby was stored for many years and we're shaking it down one peice at a time and now we've discovered that when you push the buttons for defrost, panel, bi-level, it doesn't matter and will NOT blow any air through the dash vents. Any idea's on what might be causing this and how to fix it? Many thanks!
Climate control problems
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If all air is only coming from defrost you have a central vacuum problem to the control head.
If it is only the panel vents that are inop the problem is vacuum to the vacuum motor(from the control head), faulty vacuum motor or mode door sticking/binding/broken in heater box.
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If it is only the panel vents that are inop the problem is vacuum to the vacuum motor(from the control head), faulty vacuum motor or mode door sticking/binding/broken in heater box.
Thanks for the great info and especially the diagrams - sounds like you really know your stuff! Thanks so much! I think this car has several vacuum problems. We haven't had time yet to get our hands dirty but I've already been asking about you can hear a vacuum whistle while on the accelerator and if you get on the throttle pretty good the motor will "jolt" like the ignition is being interrupted. I was told the car most likely is over boosting and it's a faulty solenoid or old vacuum lines. Do you have any opinion? I don't have any diagrams and I'm new with the turbo's. I did take a look and it actually appears like I have a nipple on the wastegate of the turbo and nothing attached to it, same with a nipple on the master cylinder. Could I possibly send you a picture and let you verify if things are hooked up correctly? If so email me at [email protected] and I'll forward a photo of what I'm talking about. Thanks!
You’re the man! Thank you so much! This car has been sitting for a long time, and although it only has 20,500 original miles, it's going to take some patience going through each system trying to make sure what's right and what’s wrong. The guy who had it before had the brake system totally rebuilt including the master cylinder, power booster, rotors, calipers, and first thing I noticed was a bare nipple on the master cylinder, that based on the diagram, looks like is missing a hose to the intake manifold. The car actually runs very nice at idle and easy driving although there's a constant vacuum hiss while on the throttle and if you wind up the turbo the motor skips like the ignition is being governed. I'm trying to help get this car back in reliable condition to drive. With this low mileage and being stored for a couple years are there certain things you would recommend replacing right away or checking out? Hate to be a pest it's just very apparent you really know your stuff about these great little cars. Thanks again!
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If the fuel and oil are a couple of years old I would certainly get those items taken care of.Be sure the air and fuel filter are fresh,the battery is good, cables are clean, other than that it will be a matter of routing vacuum lines and getting the vehicle running well. You may want to be sure the PCV system is functioning properly and the throttle plate and AIS are clean.After the vehicle is running well start checking all the basics,plugs, cap rotor, wires, cooling system including coolant condition, hoses, thermostat, belts.
I would not start replacing a lot of parts yet(unless something fails and you have to) until the vehicle is running well and you know everything works otherwise if something happens you may not know what caused it.
It sounds like the vehicle has been driven, are any fault codes set? If you are having vacuum problems there may be a couple in there from that.
I would not start replacing a lot of parts yet(unless something fails and you have to) until the vehicle is running well and you know everything works otherwise if something happens you may not know what caused it.
It sounds like the vehicle has been driven, are any fault codes set? If you are having vacuum problems there may be a couple in there from that.
Thanks again for the help - I just can't say it enough. We're just getting started with the car and each day we seem to find more things needing TLC. What’s your thought on a timing belt? Found a new one this morning lifted the hatch and a small amount of water dripped. Started looking around and found where the grommet around the rear hatch windshield wiper is gone! Luckily this car has spent most of it's time in a garage but this has to get fixed A.S.A.P. because the car will be out of doors some and will get washed! Hate to keep bothering you but you don't happen to have an exploded view of how the assembly goes together on the wiper do you? My Daytona from twenty years didn't have a wiper so I have no idea how this goes together. Thanks again for any help you can give! Oh, in your last message you suggested checking for codes, do you mean taking it to a technician to let them hook it up or is their other ways you can check?
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I will see what I can find on the rear wiper, my Daytona does not have a rear wiper either.
Timing belt should be replaced every 60,000 as maintainance but if the belt is showing signs of wear replace it.
I poster pics in the 3.0 turbo section under "3.0 na won't start" which show things to look for for a worn belt.
As far as retrieving fault codes use the key on/off method.
Cycle the key on/off, on/off, on, the power loss/check engine light will begin to flash.
Count the flash's, the codes are all 2 digit numbers, the first digit will be longer/slower flash's and the second digit will be shorter/faster flash's then a pause then the next code. example, code 23, 2 longer/slower flash's, slight pause followed by 3 shorter/faster flash's. then a longer pause and the next code will be displayed.
You will probably see a code 12 if the battery was disconnected and code 55 is the end of message code meaning the controller is finished communicating with you.
Timing belt should be replaced every 60,000 as maintainance but if the belt is showing signs of wear replace it.
I poster pics in the 3.0 turbo section under "3.0 na won't start" which show things to look for for a worn belt.
As far as retrieving fault codes use the key on/off method.
Cycle the key on/off, on/off, on, the power loss/check engine light will begin to flash.
Count the flash's, the codes are all 2 digit numbers, the first digit will be longer/slower flash's and the second digit will be shorter/faster flash's then a pause then the next code. example, code 23, 2 longer/slower flash's, slight pause followed by 3 shorter/faster flash's. then a longer pause and the next code will be displayed.
You will probably see a code 12 if the battery was disconnected and code 55 is the end of message code meaning the controller is finished communicating with you.
Man, your incredible - I mean that! That illustration is great and tells me the grommet is completely gone on this car! After Church I'm going to take the cover pieces off and see if the grommet has fallen inside but my inclination tonight is the piece rotted and fell off the car. Now the fun will be finding that part. I wonder if I can still get that through a dealership? Thanks again for all your help. This car is going to be amazing for a twenty-year-old car when it's finished and in no small part thanks to your help! Oh, found another thing tonight, the right front head light is pointing way down, almost like the adjusting springs have broken - another thing to figure out I suppose! Thanks again, I really just can't say it enough!
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Not a problem, happy to provide you with whatever info is available to me. That is what this site is for, helping each other out. Gota keep those TD's on the road.
If the dealer tells you the grommet is no longer available get the part # and I can run a parts locator for you which will show any dealers that have it in thier stock.
The headlamp is probably a broken adjuster, that will probably be one of your easier fixes.
Most of my info is coming from Alldata from a shop my Son used to work at. He used to call me to help with electrical problems he was diagnosing(usually on BMW, Mercedes, Audi etc.) and I needed to see the wiring diagrams so he gave me thier password.
If they ever change the password my source for older info I do not personally have or that is not in dealer connect (Chrysler only goes back to 96 for service info) will be gone.
If the dealer tells you the grommet is no longer available get the part # and I can run a parts locator for you which will show any dealers that have it in thier stock.
The headlamp is probably a broken adjuster, that will probably be one of your easier fixes.
Most of my info is coming from Alldata from a shop my Son used to work at. He used to call me to help with electrical problems he was diagnosing(usually on BMW, Mercedes, Audi etc.) and I needed to see the wiring diagrams so he gave me thier password.
If they ever change the password my source for older info I do not personally have or that is not in dealer connect (Chrysler only goes back to 96 for service info) will be gone.
Went to the local Dodge dealer hoping to find that rear wiper grommet - no luck. The guy said they showed back ordered on his system and probably no chance of ever getting one - he did give me a part number - 3799824 Is there a good source to go looking at? I really need this part since the original is gone and water can get in the car. Right now we have it protected but would be great to locate a replacement. Thanks again for everything your doing to help me out.
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Ran a parts locator on part # 3799824 and there are 106 dealers in the country showing it in thier stock Here are a couple in your neck of the woods.
Call them, verify in stock and arrange payment and shipping.
Carolina Chrysler/Dodge/Jeep Elizabeth City N.C. (800) 866-4126
(showing 6 in stock)
Crown Dodge of Fayetteville N.C. (800) 277-1133
(showing 1 in stock)
Call them, verify in stock and arrange payment and shipping.
Carolina Chrysler/Dodge/Jeep Elizabeth City N.C. (800) 866-4126
(showing 6 in stock)
Crown Dodge of Fayetteville N.C. (800) 277-1133
(showing 1 in stock)
Thanks for helping locate the parts. I called again and found the part numbers for a few other items we need, a new wastegate solenoid for sure which the local part man said wasn't available anywhere - part number 5227333 I was also checking on a MAP sensor - part number 5014759AA Didn't know if you could work you magic and locate these parts are not - if so I'd really appreciate it!
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The MAP sensor is still available thru Mopar, there are 18 in the NAT parts depot.
Autozone online is showing the MAP sensor for $50.00 less with a 2 year warranty.
The wastegate solenoid is no longer available, none in the country.
See if any of your other solenoids plug in (purge, baro) and see if there are any part #'s on them.
Autozone online is showing the MAP sensor for $50.00 less with a 2 year warranty.
The wastegate solenoid is no longer available, none in the country.
See if any of your other solenoids plug in (purge, baro) and see if there are any part #'s on them.
Found a guy who says he's got the wastegate solenoids brand new for $20, yea! If I can bother you again for some information I'd greatly appreciate it. Tried the windshield washer last night and it doesn't work. Was wondering with your resources (and knowledge) if you could provide me with a diagram(s) of how the system is laid out? At this juncture it could be anything, bad pump, bad switch, bad relay, fuse, all I know is there is no pump noise. Here's another mystery, the wipers work but don't have two speeds, just slow. Any clue what that could be? Another thing we found wrong was the passenger side mirror only adjusts to the inside and outside - no up and down motion and you can't hear the motor either. The driver’s side mirror works fine - any idea about that? You know a sane person would be pulling their hair out with all these little gremlins but I'm having a great time and learning so much! When I owned my first Shelby in 1987 I was scared to death to do anything but change the oil and filters! Having the right resources is the key and you've been instrumental and can't say thanks enough!
Just thought of one last thing I was going to ask you about, the amp guage, it isn't working. The battery is staying up so I'm pretty sure the alternator is working fine but the guage is dead. I've got feelers out trying to find a new guage cluster anyway because the tach is "sticking" too but just didn't know if you had a wire diagram for how it's installed? I promise I've about found all the problems and will quit pestering you! As always a BIG THANKS!
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