Turbo Dodge Forums banner
1 - 20 of 21 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
405 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I mangled the first cotter pin coming out... axle nut refused to budge at all, totally stuck, I hit it with a blast of WD40 and went and had a beer... after I finished the beer, the nut came off like butter smooth! So easy.

Any tips on how to get the cotter pin out without mangling it...

After I get both axle nuts removed, I gotta disconnect the steering knuckle next? Thanks for any and all tips, I have like a week to get this clutch change done. I wonder how I am gonna get the dowel bolts to guide the tranny back in...

Tin Liquid Paint Drink Aluminum can


Automotive tire Motor vehicle Vehicle brake Alloy wheel Rim


Automotive tire Automotive wheel system Gas Watch Auto part


Can't wait to get this bad ass clutch in, gonna have a sore neck for a week haha!!!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
711 Posts
I got a box set of cotter pins off Amazon or at Harbor Freight or cheap when I did my clutch. I will have to see if it was Amazon



But I think I got my pins at Harbor Freight.
 

·
Registered
1992 dodge shadow es turbo
Joined
·
953 Posts
You should just need to unbolt the sway bar from both control arms and separate the lower ball joint to remove the axles
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
711 Posts
You should just need to unbolt the sway bar from both control arms and separate the lower ball joint to remove the axles
I ended up unbolting the struts from the knuckle along with the tie rods to get mine out. Next time I might try the ball joint and tie rods as that will not affect alignment.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
405 Posts
Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I ended up unbolting the struts from the knuckle along with the tie rods to get mine out. Next time I might try the ball joint and tie rods as that will not affect alignment.
My alignment is already screwed, is it easier to just unbolt the entire setup on both sides or just the driver's side?

I have most of the day tomorrow to work on the clutch change, woo hoo!

Awww shit only 9 days until the mother-in-law is here... gotta have it fixed and moved by then or it will be NAG CITY! AH!!!!!!
 

·
Registered
1992 dodge shadow es turbo
Joined
·
953 Posts
Remove both axle nuts. Jack the car up and put on jack stands so both front wheels are in the air, remove wheels, unbolt the sway bar from both lower control arms, swing the sway bar down away from the control arms. Unbolt lower ball joint’s, using a large pry bar to push the lower control arm down and big hammer separate the lower ball joints. Unbolt brake hose from the strut. Steer car to right and remove right axle, steer car to left to remove left axle.
This way works great for me, no alignment issues.
 
  • Like
Reactions: james

·
Registered
Joined
·
886 Posts
My alignment is already screwed, is it easier to just unbolt the entire setup on both sides or just the driver's side?

I have most of the day tomorrow to work on the clutch change, woo hoo!

Awww shit only 9 days until the mother-in-law is here... gotta have it fixed and moved by then or it will be NAG CITY! AH!!!!!!
I just pulled the whole engine transmission out of a Daytona of the other day all I had to do for the axles was unbolt the 2 strut bolts and then if you grab the axle with your hand you can pull it out of the spindle and get it out of the way.

Good luck with the nagging. Better just to do it at ur own place if u can ppl love to complain...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
711 Posts
I just pulled the whole engine transmission out of a Daytona of the other day all I had to do for the axles was unbolt the 2 strut bolts and then if you grab the axle with your hand you can pull it out of the spindle and get it out of the way.
Same with my Shadow. I just removed the two strut to knuckle bolts and tie rod from knuckle. But then I have lifetime alignment so I did not care that it had to get realigned.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
124 Posts
If the strut bolts-to- knuckle are removed, be sure to torque them to spec when you re-install the drive axles. I think it's 85 ft. lbs. It is not necessary to loosen the tie-rods. Turning the wheels left and right, respectively, is enough to remove the drive axle. The lower ball joint has a cinch bolt that can be removed. A long pry bar can pull the lower ball socket out without removing the roll bar. The ball socket has a shoulder that must be aligned with the cinch bolt when you re-assemble them. (An annoying detail) Some new ball sockets are completely shouldered all around the shank, and that makes it a lot easier. I use WD-40 to lube the shank, but it does not need to be fully seated to line up with the pinch bolt. The position of the strut bolts can be marked so that they can be re-fitted in the proper position. Be sure to push the strut in as you tighten them. Or a simple "bubble" tool with a magnetic base can re-set the camber. Negative camber is best, if the wheel has positive camber the wheels tend to "tuck under" in corners and causes unsafe handling.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
405 Posts
Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Woo hoo the easy part is done on the driver's side...

Automotive tire Motor vehicle Gas Automotive wheel system Tints and shades


Gaahhh I am so nervous, what the heck am I gonna do to make the two guide pins the repair manual and all Turbo Dodgers recommends?! What's the cheapest way to make/get a couple of guide pins?!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
711 Posts
Get you a couple of long bolts that will thread into the bell housing. Cut the heads off and then cut a slot in the end you cut the heads off for a screw driver to aid in removing the pins once the trans is installed.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
405 Posts
Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Get you a couple of long bolts that will thread into the bell housing. Cut the heads off and then cut a slot in the end you cut the heads off for a screw driver to aid in removing the pins once the trans is installed.
What's the easiest way? Just take one of the tranny bolts to a hardware store and find a match...
 
1 - 20 of 21 Posts
Top