No spark may be an ASD problem, Hep problem, Ignition Coil, Distributor not turning,etc.
Locate the underhood diagnostic connector, with the key on/ engine off ground the DB/YL wire,this will actuate the ASD relay, with a test light connected to ground check for power at the + coil, if there is no power check the ASD relay circuit,if power is present the ASD is ok.
Disconnect the ground from the diagnostic connector, have a helper crank the engine while you again check for power at the + coil, if no power is present the problem is in the HEP circuit, if power is present connect your test light to + batt and while cranking check the coil -, the light should blink, if it does not the problem is on the ignition control side circuit, if it does unhook the coil wire from the dist cap and hold 1/4" from ground and crank the engine, if there is good strong spark the problem is in the dist cap or rotor, if no spark the problem is the coil wire or coil.
To 01 Neon SnooZer,THANKS!!!
I have a lot of formal training in engine management and do not believe in throwing parts at a problem, if you happen to have a spare, then sure throw it on but to go out and buy parts when you are not sure......
Proper diagnostics on our cars for the most part only requires a multi-meter, test light, backprobe pins, fuel pressure gauge, vacuum gauge and noid lights or logic probe, if you have a scanner even better.
These cars stock are not that complex electronically compared to the new Can Bus Systems I see everyday.
My check engine light came on Thursday coming home, checked codes, TPS, took 5 minutes with a voltmeter to verify V-Ref, Signal Line and Signal Return were ok, sweep TPS and watch voltage fall off at part throttle,Auto Zone 5 minutes away had it in stock and 5 minutes to install.