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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Ok... The radiator fan was not coming on and even unplugging the Coolant temp sensor was not kicking it on (with the car "ON" but not running)... I tried to fire her up and she didn't want to start but vibrated enough I guess that it shook whatever connection was open or shorted to contact and the fan came on. I turned the key off and connected the CTS back and put the key back on - pulled sensor connection and it kicked on again.

The ECU is new because of this (did it with old comp, thought it was the comp)

What connections should I be looking at? The ECU is good and I'm 99% sure the wires inside the dash to the ECU are still good - I'm thinking it's something under the dash.

The relay is also brand new - I can jump the terminals on the connection to the relay and start the can up when the ECU can't so it's gotta be somewhere between the bulkhead and the relay I am guessing.

Any assistance is appreciated.

Mike

edit: If nobody can really help out I'll probably just end up running new wires from the logic module to the relay - but I'd really like to find out where it's shorting out so I can fix it and check the other wires near it.
 

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If it vibrated, then finally started working, I would bet on a fan motor. Does your car have AC? if it does, the fan should run whenever the AC is on also. A test light will tell you if the fan is receiving power. Disconnecting the CTS, forces "limp in" mode, fixed timing, no boost, and fan continuous run. If the relay clicks on, but no power, then check to see if you have power available at the relay, if you do then replace it. The fan on a 87 up turbo should be a plastic, 5 spiral blades with a rim. It moves a lot of air! If you aren't getting enough speed from the motor, it needs replacing.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
The fan gives plenty of air - the relay is good and the comp is bad.

When the fan isn't working (comp can't turn it on) I can jump the wires to the fan and it spins up and works fine so it's not the fan either.

Is there a fusible link between the comp and the relay or any spot that is known for rubbing I should check out?

Mike
 

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The code 35 just means when the ECU tries to turn on the relay, it seems like the relay isn't there. The ECU doesn't know if the relay contacts or the fan motor is working. It could either be a bad relay, problem with the wire between the relay and the ECU, or a problem with the 12V feed to the relay coil (dark blue wire).
 

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I had a similar problem with my N/A spirit and found the 12 volt feed wire corroded through in the harness. I think it was a blue or a grey wire. If I remember also, it is the feed for the A/C relay as well.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
It seems as though the ground is what is intermittant on the low-voltage side of the regulator. Where is it grounded at?

Mike
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Ok - then I need to check the ground wire from the ECU to the Relay - I'm assuming since engine vibration caused the intermittancy that it's a short under-hood somewhere - I'll have to check it out.

What color/gauge is the ground wire for the relay coil? 18gauge?

Mike
 

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I installed a manual fan switch on my car and it tripped the code 35, if that's of any use ;)
 
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